10mm ARP head studs in Australia headstuds

6A13TT TYPE S

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Adam
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1999 Legnum VR4 Type S
One at a time. If you take them all off at once the gasket will release and not be useable.

Usually you go in 3 steps. I.e 20-40-60 but when doing them one by one just go straight to 60.
And then once you have done them all just go over all of them in the sequence above at 60 again to ensure they are all down properly.

Once running, Let it get fully to operating temp and then fully cool off.
Do this twice and then take the rocker covers off, crack the nuts 1/8th ish of a turn and pull them back down to 60ft/lb (do this one at a time just like replacing the studs.)
This ensures that after some use after all the threads have seated they are still torqued to spec. You can sometimes get 1/4 to 1/2 of a extra turn out of the nuts when doing this.

Retorquing the studs after one or two heat cycles of the engine is a must for non-stretch type fasteners, mostly to allow for gaskets settling down, so less critical in your case as its a pre-crushed gasket, but its definatly still worth doing to giveyour gaskets the best chance possible of surviving. Especially as you said it has been pushing water already.
 

TME_Steve

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2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
You want to go to factory torque, (hich you have to guess a bit) first. Then tighten them in the order you chose again. It's all dodgy anyway :p
 

Johnwastakenalready

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Central Coast NSW
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John
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1997 Manual Legnum VR4
Triumph Daytona 675
Hey guys thanks for the info on here from a few years back.
When most people upgrade the stock head studs to the 10mm ARP studs, are they just replacing one stud at a time and in sequence like Adam said?
Does this work for most people without any issues?
Any need to take the timing belt off to release the tension it has on the cams?


I'd like to upgrade my head studs, but I don't want to take the head off, replace the head gasket and have the block and head decked.
Currently my car is running find, have not stretched the stock studs yet or done any head gasket damage.

If this upgrade is as simple as taking the cam covers off (twice) and replacing each head stud then it seems like a well worthwhile mod.
 

6A13TT TYPE S

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1999 Legnum VR4 Type S
One by one is definitely a very half assed dodgy way of doing it which I would never do myself. But if you must do it that way see my above post

No need to remove timing belt.
 

pretzil

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Qld
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Rick
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Legnum VR4
One by one is definitely a very half assed dodgy way of doing it which I would never do myself. But if you must do it that way see my above post

5 years on E85, 2 years on E85 and high flows, worked fine for me, I couldn't imagine using my whole ass for anything :p
 

6A13TT TYPE S

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Adam
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1999 Legnum VR4 Type S
Haha never said it wont work its just bad practice. Especially coming from me, an Engine builder..
 

BCX

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2000 Galant Type-V
1997 MK Triton GLS [6G74 conversion]
2019 i30 N-Line
You can also look at it this way... If it doesnt work out, then youve just wasted a few hours of your time only as the studs can be reused. At the point where you've compromised the headgasket seal doing it, you needed to take the heads off anyways which you would have needed to do anyways to do it 'properly'.

If youre doing it yourself, then go for it. Its worked for many people in the past. Just keep in the back of your mind that you *might* need to end up doing the head gaskets etc, but unlikely.

I was going to do it one by one, but ended up needing to take the heads off for other reasons.
 
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