G
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Thanks mate, has anyone else had experience with this?
JamesGC
Hesitantly Boosting
the TCL OFF and ENGINE lights both come on at the same time on mine. usually 5-30 mins into driving. i dont notice any difference in driving though. i either read or dreamed that its a common electrical issue.
G
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I'm still praying its something simple like that So I will check that first. A Man can Dream....
G
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This problem is still haunting me.I am starting to go mental haha, Does anyone know where to purchase those monster 60A fuses from the engine bay, I have not tried replacing them but I am getting desperate.
Also, does ANYONE know where the pressure accumulator is? Some reading has led to a bit of a lead explaining early VR 4's had a nitrogen filled pressure accumulator which could leak pressure through a seal over time and cause ASC problems.
Surely someone knows WTF a pressure accumulator is and where it is...
Also, does ANYONE know where the pressure accumulator is? Some reading has led to a bit of a lead explaining early VR 4's had a nitrogen filled pressure accumulator which could leak pressure through a seal over time and cause ASC problems.
Surely someone knows WTF a pressure accumulator is and where it is...
vr4cobra
1 AYC Bar
Can get those fuses from any auto electrician... Donno wat the pressure accumilator is tho lol
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
isn't pressure accummulator the white canister?
brackenridgevr4
Hesitantly Boosting
i have or had this same kind of problem on mine tcl flashing and 2 / 3 bars ayc found out i have a tyre with an egg that i could only just feel at low speed
G
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I don't know, I was told it was a vacuum cannister and never thought anything more of it. You mean the white one by the wiper motor with the hoses going in and out?
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Checked out that cannister, It seems like its just for vacuum. The accumulator seems to hint towards being filled with brake fluid or some sort of liquid and creates pressure. Sucked on the inlets/outlets of the white cannister, Just air inside 
G
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Doing a bit of research on ABS and found this.
Integrated systems:
- An integrated system gets its name from the fact that the major hydraulic components like the brake booster and the hydraulic modulator are integrated into a unit with the master cylinder. Other components, such as the accumulator and hydraulic modulator, may also be part of the assbly.
Maybe I cant find the Accumulator because it is inside the Module? That is why there are different part numbers for the Modulators, Mine is MR407436
It would be great if someone without ASC could check the part number on their Modulator for me and see if it is different. It is easy to see on the black housing to the rear of the modulator by the Wiper Motor...
Integrated systems:
- An integrated system gets its name from the fact that the major hydraulic components like the brake booster and the hydraulic modulator are integrated into a unit with the master cylinder. Other components, such as the accumulator and hydraulic modulator, may also be part of the assbly.
Maybe I cant find the Accumulator because it is inside the Module? That is why there are different part numbers for the Modulators, Mine is MR407436
It would be great if someone without ASC could check the part number on their Modulator for me and see if it is different. It is easy to see on the black housing to the rear of the modulator by the Wiper Motor...
brackenridgevr4
Hesitantly Boosting
hey just checked the cars for you seems like they are totally different
manual one has mb629094
auto one has mr475519
but they are completely different auto has these little heat sink thingys on it and the manual is just like a realay unsure if this will help .
manual one has mb629094
auto one has mr475519
but they are completely different auto has these little heat sink thingys on it and the manual is just like a realay unsure if this will help .
I am pulled over by the side of the road with the exact symptoms.
Using OZVR4 Facebook page as a point of contact.
Have checked terminals etc.
10cm clean oil pool seen at my driver rear tyre as I left work.
Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk 2
Using OZVR4 Facebook page as a point of contact.
Have checked terminals etc.
10cm clean oil pool seen at my driver rear tyre as I left work.
Sent from my MZ601 using Tapatalk 2
Blue legnum
Leaving Skid Marks
+1 for ayc pump.. sounds like it has let go/leaking.
G
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Hey mate, sorry I cant help as I haven't solved my problem yet, Buy mine Isn't AYC related and had no fluid loss.I believe mine is a lack of pressure in the ABS system itself due to a rat-shit accumulator. Could it be that you lost brake fluid (from the brakeline by the puddle) and Your ABS is failing to pressurize properly?
Check your break fluid level I guess.
Check your break fluid level I guess.
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
hate to say this, but its possible that you've got a crack in your ayc housing..
Problem solved! Nice to have a post-mortem.
OK, story from start-to-finish.
In the Beginning...
Car was parked on the top level roof. In Melbourne, it was a 41°C Day and stayed that way well into the early evening.
When I returned to my car, I noticed a puddle at the rear driver's wheel. I always do a walk-around inspection, a habit of being an owner of two dogs and two cats and being slightly obsessive-compulsive. The puddle was 10cm in diameter and it was a clean oil (not fuel, it would have evaporated in that heat on the roof and didn't smell/feel like it). Guessing it was the AYC, I just popped off the interior panel to have a cursory glance at the reservoir and looked under the car (where the two lines are for the AYC). All seemed to be good.
The Drive... and then Crappity-Crap-Crap
It's a 55km drive home (mostly freeway). Half-way... the ABS, AYC, TCL and "skid" lights lit-up on the dashboard. I immediately made a move to pull over on the right. My mind started ticking over, hoping that it would be an easy self-fix. So what do I do, grab the Xoom tablet and posted up on FaceBook's OZVR4 page and started searching.
Which led me to this post.
We checked the battery terminal (secure), reset the ECU (lights returned immediately), then remembered to actually inspect the AYC fluid level.
I went to remove the cap, but rather than a 180° twist, it just popped off. The levels were quite full but there was the smell of hot oil inside the rear quarter panel. Looks like that explained the 10cm puddle.
The Fix...
Cleaned up the exterior of the reservoir with a spare rag and properly secured its cap, the ECU was reset to clear the codes and "Hey Presto", Loki was good to drive again.
So to test... there's a double-lane roundabout I know of. Without much traffic around, I kept in the inner lane and did two laps enthusiastically enough to light up all three bars for the AYC on the dashboard. I pulled over into a side street and did a visual inspection of the reservoir once more. There were no new leaks to be found.
The Aftermath...
I wasn't the last to service/touch the AYC, but got it all done at the same time. I also got the diff fluids changed as well at that time.
When the AYC system pressurised (or from the heat of the day), the cap didn't hold.
I'm glad it happened now as opposed to somewhere between Melbourne-Adelaide as I am driving to "All Japan Day" this March!
Thanks to everyone who helped out with the ideas on here and on the FB page.
Cheers!
OK, story from start-to-finish.
In the Beginning...
Car was parked on the top level roof. In Melbourne, it was a 41°C Day and stayed that way well into the early evening.
When I returned to my car, I noticed a puddle at the rear driver's wheel. I always do a walk-around inspection, a habit of being an owner of two dogs and two cats and being slightly obsessive-compulsive. The puddle was 10cm in diameter and it was a clean oil (not fuel, it would have evaporated in that heat on the roof and didn't smell/feel like it). Guessing it was the AYC, I just popped off the interior panel to have a cursory glance at the reservoir and looked under the car (where the two lines are for the AYC). All seemed to be good.
The Drive... and then Crappity-Crap-Crap
It's a 55km drive home (mostly freeway). Half-way... the ABS, AYC, TCL and "skid" lights lit-up on the dashboard. I immediately made a move to pull over on the right. My mind started ticking over, hoping that it would be an easy self-fix. So what do I do, grab the Xoom tablet and posted up on FaceBook's OZVR4 page and started searching.
Which led me to this post.
We checked the battery terminal (secure), reset the ECU (lights returned immediately), then remembered to actually inspect the AYC fluid level.
I went to remove the cap, but rather than a 180° twist, it just popped off. The levels were quite full but there was the smell of hot oil inside the rear quarter panel. Looks like that explained the 10cm puddle.
The Fix...
Cleaned up the exterior of the reservoir with a spare rag and properly secured its cap, the ECU was reset to clear the codes and "Hey Presto", Loki was good to drive again.
So to test... there's a double-lane roundabout I know of. Without much traffic around, I kept in the inner lane and did two laps enthusiastically enough to light up all three bars for the AYC on the dashboard. I pulled over into a side street and did a visual inspection of the reservoir once more. There were no new leaks to be found.
The Aftermath...
I wasn't the last to service/touch the AYC, but got it all done at the same time. I also got the diff fluids changed as well at that time.
When the AYC system pressurised (or from the heat of the day), the cap didn't hold.
I'm glad it happened now as opposed to somewhere between Melbourne-Adelaide as I am driving to "All Japan Day" this March!
Thanks to everyone who helped out with the ideas on here and on the FB page.
Cheers!
G
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- #39
I wish my Fix was that Easy
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