Auto N/A RVR + Manual Turbo RVR

crazynick505

Doing mad Helis
Lifetime Member
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Nick
Drive
'96 Galant VR4 - 300kW
'19 Kia Stinger GT
'95 R33 Skyline
Is there anyone around that knows a bit about RVRs?

I currently have an Auto N/A 4g63 RVR that is most likely about to blow up.
I have the opportunity to buy a Turbo manual RVR that is also complete, minus the gearbox which could be stuffed.

Between the two cars, would I have everything required to make one Auto Turbo RVR? Or am I going to need to source a turbo auto loom to make this happen?


TIA
 

crazynick505

Doing mad Helis
Lifetime Member
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Nick
Drive
'96 Galant VR4 - 300kW
'19 Kia Stinger GT
'95 R33 Skyline
Nahhh,

I ended up with a manual that had stuck valves and needed a refreshed head :facepalm:
Came out pretty good anyways, just gotta find the constant oil leaks :ROFLMAO:

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Cocko

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Gympie, QLD
First Name
Ian
Drive
PFL Legnum
4g63t life. Chasing oil leaks....
Oil return from turbo to sump and the bloody oil feed from head to turbo were my constants until the last year with mine.
Interesting that the previous guy had equal length headers but kept the top mount.
 

crazynick505

Doing mad Helis
Lifetime Member
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Nick
Drive
'96 Galant VR4 - 300kW
'19 Kia Stinger GT
'95 R33 Skyline
Same issue here with the drain to the sump haha, far out.
Although I've somehow got oil getting under the intake runners, but not on top?

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Every time I go for a drive, stop and come back to my car, I've got 2-3 drips of oil on the ground :cry:
I've replaced so much stuff now and even went as far as to modify a valve cover with -10 fittings thinking it may have been blow by, but nahp

The car came with stock everything but had a heap of extra bits that he never used like these headers and a larger td04 compressor housing and billet wheel (Which I can't put on till I fix my problems :p) I had to use these headers as the stock one was cracked everywhere
 

Cocko

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Gympie, QLD
First Name
Ian
Drive
PFL Legnum
Check the CAS housing and also the breather hose at the rear of the tappet cover. I've had that issue before.... plumbers tape into the breather fitting solved it for me. My mate had a small leak from the CAS which was similar but nowhere near as much. Frustrating as fuck.
Also with the turbo oil return, just check that it has a thin copper O ring. Most get lost and/or replaced with a thick one, both lead to leaks. At least you have room in that engine bay hey.
 

crazynick505

Doing mad Helis
Lifetime Member
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Nick
Drive
'96 Galant VR4 - 300kW
'19 Kia Stinger GT
'95 R33 Skyline
I've got the gen 2 sensor setup, so mine are both in around the timing belt :( That area where the gen 1 sensor sits is all dry anyways, same with the breather hose. I've replaced all that with the fittings anyways, so I'd hope it's not leaking around there :p What I can't understand is how the injector area is all dry as a bone. The leak must be starting further down o_O

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Also what I can't understand is how the catch can had a bit of oil in it BEFORE adding the breathers and now I get 0 oil? I thought I'd be getting more if anything? Unless there is just way less crankcase pressure and it isn't forcing as much out. I've capped the hose coming off the intake that used to go to the cover as well.

I'll have to change the title of this thread to "The 4g vent thread" :LOL:
 

Cocko

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Gympie, QLD
First Name
Ian
Drive
PFL Legnum
Plenty to vent about with a 4g, ha ha ha. Awesomely tunable engines though!
The only thing I can suggest is a leak down test and maybe just check the intake bolts or even the rubber ring for the injectors? Anything is worth a crack at the moment hey. Certainly a weird situation mate.
 
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