Crank bearings . What are we replacing them with
- Thread starter veegeeta
- Start date
Genuine. There's nothing else available.
You will need to check your bearing clearances and then select the most appropriate size bearings, you have 3 sizes to choose from, it's all in the manual
If your going after stupid power ie 500+hp then you could consider getting them WPC treated but you'll need to send them to Japan or USA. It's a process that was developed in Japan it was something I was going to do to my track engine
- Thread starter
- #5
AhGenuine. There's nothing else available.
You will need to check your bearing clearances and then select the most appropriate size bearings, you have 3 sizes to choose from, it's all in the manual
so that means I got to pull it out measure ,wait god knows how long to put it all back together? Dam you Mitsubishi for changing shitGuess my weekend job just got a lot longer. Can we get from engine number cross reference ? Oh and my 2 book manual doesn't have engine block in it, has everything else that's useless to me. Thanks guysYour crank will be stamped with its size at manufacture its on the crank and bottom of the block. I'm on holidays so I can't look it up for youAh
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- #7
Thanks bud
do you know of hand where on bottom of block? Do I need to remove sump ?I'll be checking tomorrow for it now before I go too farI can't remember if it's stamped inside or on the flat section the lower pan bolts onto. I think it's the latter but without the manual I can't be certain. Just check the manualThanks bud
Why do you need to replace the bearings anyway?
I always order the thickest bearings and hone the tunnels to suit, that way you get the best clearances
I always order the thickest bearings and hone the tunnels to suit, that way you get the best clearances
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- #10
All top end has bin replaced and put in a gearbox with taller gear ratios and a wavetrac lsd, long story short car was driven after that without re tune car had boost leak now can hear rattle like knock from bottom end. So want to flip her up pull crank get it checked and put in new bearings.
The problem is as said above bearings are available genuine only and only standard sizes. Usually all 3 weeks ex japan too so if your engine has buggered a bearing and marred your crankshaft journals you will need a new crank as you cant just grind it and use undersize aftermarket bearings.
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- #12
Rogger that. Let's hope at how picky I am with noise change that I've got to it before stuffing the crank . Either way I will take it to town to have it checked before it goes back in and I'll make my mind up then. But I still need to have right parts before I start. my wife will only allow the engine to sit in living room for a week.lol
Yeah whip the pants off it and take the rod caps and main cradle off and see if the crank journals are scratchy. Its a bugger having to wait 3 weeks for bearings each time I need to build one hence why I keep a spare set in my toolbox these days.
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- #16
what sort of price did this cost in parts?
~250NZD worth for a full set.
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- #18
mmm so totally affordable . and i was getting worried
- Thread starter
- #19
Ok think I found both can someone tell me what the part numbers are for the above pics. Thank you
You're missing the set of numbers printed on the block around the edge where the oil pan is bolted on. It's by the gearbox side from memory and is usually covered with grit and crap.
For the con rod bearings you need 5x MD344364 and 1x MD344363.
I'd still take it apart and check it if you had knock as you could have further damage and marked the cylinder walls.
For the con rod bearings you need 5x MD344364 and 1x MD344363.
I'd still take it apart and check it if you had knock as you could have further damage and marked the cylinder walls.
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