cyber_scriber
1 AYC Bar
- Location
- NSW
- First Name
- Bruce
- Drive
- 2000 Galant; metallic dark blue; manual; Recaros; Momo steering wheel; and sunroof!
I have noticed that a lot of newbies and potential Galant / Legnum owners tend to ask the same question - what commonly goes wrong with these cars?
Rather than subject them to trawling through the massive "List of Problems" thread (http://www.ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2755), I thought it would help to set out below what I understand to be problems specific to our cars.
I only list those problems, which are common and where more than 1 member has experienced the issue.
Common faults
(a) Replace compliance spec oil filters - Certain compliance spec oil filters have been having problems with blowing off – replace them.
(b) Control arms prone to failure - Listen for creaking, squeeking and knocking sounds. More info in this thread - http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread....appens-if-you-don-t-replace-your-control-arms... Part numbers are MR296295 LH (ARM ASSY,FR SUSP LATERAL,LWR LH) / MR296296 RH (ARM ASSY,FR SUSP LATERAL,LWR RH)
(c) Wheel Bearings - Replace hub assembly.
(d) CV boots, joints and driveshafts - The boots can split, spraying gunk around. You know the CV joints are gone when you do a slow u turn at full steering lock and hear "clunk, clunk".
(e) Clutch master and slave cylinder.
(f) Front and rear bushes - check them for wear.
(g) Cracked radiator top tank – Very common fault. Replace with aluminium radiator.
(h) Leaking factory plastic BOV – Especially if you run higher than factory boost. Replace with metal BOV from Evo IX.
(i) Lifter noise - Either get the lifters replaced (expensive) or use Pro-ma MBL8 additive (http://www.ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2253).
(j) Worn suspension bushings / arms / ball joints.
(k) Engine mounts collapsed.
(l) Idle stepper motor – Clean it with Inlet cleaner/degreaser.
(m) Auto gearboxes - Prone to fail if not properly serviced and had a cooler fitted.
Clock display - Intermittently blacks out due to poor soldered connections.
(o) Fuel tank gauge - Inaccurate and non-linear in its read out. When the fuel light comes on, the car is frequently still carrying 10+ litres in reserve.
(p) Active Yaw Control - Groaning noise from the AYC if the fluid hasn't been changed in a long time and possible AYC pump issues in high mileage cars or cars that pack substantially more power than stock.
(q) Torque converter seal and main crank seal - May need to be replaced.
(r) Tow hook cover - This is the long, little piece at the bottom of your front spoiler. It comes off very easily and owners have lost it scraping on low drive ways, speed bumps etc.
As always, I'm happy to receive constructive feedback and will update this post accordingly.
Send some rep if you find this guide useful
Rather than subject them to trawling through the massive "List of Problems" thread (http://www.ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2755), I thought it would help to set out below what I understand to be problems specific to our cars.
I only list those problems, which are common and where more than 1 member has experienced the issue.
Common faults
(a) Replace compliance spec oil filters - Certain compliance spec oil filters have been having problems with blowing off – replace them.
(b) Control arms prone to failure - Listen for creaking, squeeking and knocking sounds. More info in this thread - http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread....appens-if-you-don-t-replace-your-control-arms... Part numbers are MR296295 LH (ARM ASSY,FR SUSP LATERAL,LWR LH) / MR296296 RH (ARM ASSY,FR SUSP LATERAL,LWR RH)
(c) Wheel Bearings - Replace hub assembly.
(d) CV boots, joints and driveshafts - The boots can split, spraying gunk around. You know the CV joints are gone when you do a slow u turn at full steering lock and hear "clunk, clunk".
(e) Clutch master and slave cylinder.
(f) Front and rear bushes - check them for wear.
(g) Cracked radiator top tank – Very common fault. Replace with aluminium radiator.
(h) Leaking factory plastic BOV – Especially if you run higher than factory boost. Replace with metal BOV from Evo IX.
(i) Lifter noise - Either get the lifters replaced (expensive) or use Pro-ma MBL8 additive (http://www.ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2253).
(j) Worn suspension bushings / arms / ball joints.
(k) Engine mounts collapsed.
(l) Idle stepper motor – Clean it with Inlet cleaner/degreaser.
(m) Auto gearboxes - Prone to fail if not properly serviced and had a cooler fitted.
Clock display - Intermittently blacks out due to poor soldered connections.(o) Fuel tank gauge - Inaccurate and non-linear in its read out. When the fuel light comes on, the car is frequently still carrying 10+ litres in reserve.
(p) Active Yaw Control - Groaning noise from the AYC if the fluid hasn't been changed in a long time and possible AYC pump issues in high mileage cars or cars that pack substantially more power than stock.
(q) Torque converter seal and main crank seal - May need to be replaced.
(r) Tow hook cover - This is the long, little piece at the bottom of your front spoiler. It comes off very easily and owners have lost it scraping on low drive ways, speed bumps etc.
As always, I'm happy to receive constructive feedback and will update this post accordingly.
Send some rep if you find this guide useful
