Door wiring help!

[smitty]

Has anybody tried running new speaker wire into the doors through the rubber conduit the factory loom runs through? I'm trying but not having much luck...

 

[happymatch]

i have. i have run some speaker wires thought the rubber thing and it is almost impossible. I sort of pulled out the rubber thing half way, used thin but long cable tie to be the "guide" first, then tape one end with the speaker wire, used silicon spray as a lubbricant otherwise it might damage it. got one pair thought it then i gave up for the other doors. just too hard. the one got though, took me ages to find the end from the doors. (not even sure how it got there).

 

[mookers]

What happened to using the existing wires Alex? After you found that first one, did you have trouble tracing the others?

 

[smitty]

I just wanted to see if anyone had actually had any success using the existing conduit... I had another attempt at getting a probe through the rubber without success, so yeah, too hard basket for that one!

 

[pu-11-me]

If you run an amp you would want to change the wires running to the speakers (Well I would anyway) to something with less resistance.

Alex, get a LONG ass screwdriver, tape the wires to the end, push it through. Its fiddly but it works, that how I done it

Make sure you leave you crossovers INSIDE the car. You wouldn't want them ruined by water. Put them in the kick panels.

Good luck

 

[Guest]

Like Dawso said........I've run new speaker wires through the rubber grommet / conduit. Trick was to use an old wire coat hanger or similar and use this as a "needle" to thread the cable through - bent a loop in the end of the wire to tie the wire on to. Male sure you blunt the pushing end of the wire using some duct tape or similar so as not to damage the rubber boot or any other cables running through here.

This trick also worked well for getting boost line throught the fire wall using existing holes...........but that's another story!

 

[OVR444]

haha damn you beat me to it!...

Even the pro's use flexi-plastic / coat hanger grade metal.

1) bend the hanger straight with the bendy (rounded) end as the "top" and the bottom is the twisted metal/hook that it would usually hang on.

2) place your wire in line with this bottom area and use duck-tape / electrical tape around it a couple of times.

3) push this through the desired area and once you have the speaker wire pushed through, undo the tape and remove coat hanger / wire.

This is how I ran the power up the passenger side into the firewall behind the air-con(I think it is). And also all my door speaker wires. Makes it very easy to wire through the factory rubber grommets; thus retaining the "factory/unmodified" look.

 

[pu-11-me]

I tried a coathanger but didn't go so well, it flexed to much trying to get in there.

Maybe i'm just retarded haha

 

[OVR444]

Maybe i'm just retarded haha

Haha! I'll play nice and leave that alone

I go through the coat hangers quite quickly as i'm always bending it back and forth to fit the desired area. If you try to poke it straight through (while straight) its not so easy.

The trick is to bend it so its still 2 wires side by side.... if you completely pull the coat-hanger apart its useless as 1 strand; just flexes all over the place

 

[smitty]

Success! Cheers for all your advice.

Rep for everybody!

 

[OVR444]

Success! Cheers for all your advice.

Rep for everybody!

Great success!

 

[Chris Rogers]

WD40 and a heavy wire. works a treat

 

[smitty]

WD40 and a heavy wire. works a treat

Cheers! I'll remember that for next time!

 

[SLY-031]

If you pull the grommet out of the door and body, and bend it out straight, the wire feeds straight through with only a little effort.

Not difficult at all.

 

[Guest]

for future referance. even when you put in a amp you dont need to change teh door wiring. its only going to make a differance if you have a amp thats putting out a heap of power.