Evo Brake Master Cylinder?

steveP

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SA
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Steve
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VR4 Galant
Copied from ClubVR4 from last nite seeing this site was down..

I didnt plan on doing the upgrade this early. But my standard brake master cylinder is rooted. So im thinking i may as well upgrade it to an evo one and do the brakes at the same time.

Now, i seen someone use a evo 6 brake master cylinder, but i dont think it ended well with locking up issues. And doing a bit of research theres apprently a evo 6 1.1/16" and a 1" brake master cylinder or something.

Any info on this would be greated appreciated.

Also if anyone in Aus has a evo brake master cylinder and evo brakes (rotors, calipers, pads, lines) for sale. I would be keen to purchase asap.
 

steveP

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SA
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Steve
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VR4 Galant
ok now that i can actually get back on ozvr4, ive done some research.

- only evo 5 and 6 master cylinders fit.
- only some evo 5 and 6's have a larger master cylinder than vr4's.

so i reckon ill just get the factory master cylinder repaired and worried about the brake upgrade later. oh well.
 
G

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the lockup was me and due to a faulty cylinder,

only use the evo 5 or 6 unit,

the 7+ does not bolt in/on, as it use's different line fittings and will not seal on a vr4

the evo 5/6 mostly use a 1 & 1/16" cylinder some use a 1"
the size is cast into the underside of the cylinder so you cant confuse them.

and i dont know what effect using a larger master will have on stock brakes.

i want to upgrade due to have evo calipers on.
 
G

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Unregistered
So whats the main issue with yours? Well whats it doing or not doing

I noticed after the last track day I really need to bleed my brakes now but I'm told you should anyway after flogging them on the track?
 

steveP

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SA
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Steve
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VR4 Galant
haha its not the car, but user error. i was mucking around trying to find a spot to drill a hole for the boost line, and kinda punctured the master cylinder from the cabin. i swear it was all clear lol.

so yeah im like, well if i got replace it, i may as well upgrade it. and if im upgrading the master cylinder, i may as well upgrade the brakes. its turning out to be a rather expensive exercise. im thinking just to repair the factory one if its repairable.

what do u guys think is the best option?
 

steveP

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SA
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Steve
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VR4 Galant
ok after getting it sussed, ive actually punctured the brake booster. now does anyone know if the evo version can fit, or if its worth it, or just get mine repaired?
 

VR-04-TT

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QLD
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Paul
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1999 Legnum Type S
So whats the main issue with yours? Well whats it doing or not doing

I noticed after the last track day I really need to bleed my brakes now but I'm told you should anyway after flogging them on the track?

Definitely should as you can heat the fluid up too much and possibly boil it, which ruins the properties of the fluid. Even if it doesn't happen, it's a cheap preventative maintenance thing to do.
 

Macca

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Toowoomba, QLD.
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Craig 'Macca' Mclean
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2000 Mitsubishi Legnum Type S
Soooo, as my post got deleted... Has anyone installed one of these? Does it increase the brake pressure and decrease the amount you have to step on the pedal?

EDIT: Are the boosters the same or would it be a good idea to get the Evo 5/6 booster too?
 

steveP

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SA
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Steve
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VR4 Galant
Whoa where did my post go?

Anywho, I was saying that since I created this thread, I replaced my damaged booster with a factory item. There's just too much guess work when trying to upgrade from an evo and we don't even know if there's any benefit.

I'm now also running evo 8 brakes with braided lines and the factory booster is holding up well. I think the braided lines help firm up the brake pedal.
 

J-B

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South Australia
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Jarrad
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EVO VII GSR
I agree with Steve, evo brakes with braided lines does help firm up the brake pedal.

I havent had any problem with the factory master cylinder either and I've been running my Evo brakes since 2008
 

Jonson

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SA
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Jon
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MY15 X MR
Your rotors are well due for replacement Jarrad lol. Pads aren't too far off either!
 

Macca

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Toowoomba, QLD.
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Craig 'Macca' Mclean
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2000 Mitsubishi Legnum Type S
I have braided lines and everything, I just find that it takes a reasonable amount of force on the pedal where as I have driven cars like a Tarago(work car) or an RS Imprezza that feels like its gonna lock up the brakes just touching them.

The car still pulls up fast with firm pressure and the pedal feels firm and not spongy, I just though maybe using a bigger master cylinder would give a better feel to the braking.
 

Jonson

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SA
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Jon
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MY15 X MR
What pads are you using? It's amazing how much a different set of pads can make to pedal feel.
 

Black_Ice

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Newy, NSW
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Aamir
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WRX
I have braided lines and everything, I just find that it takes a reasonable amount of force on the pedal where as I have driven cars like a Tarago(work car) or an RS Imprezza that feels like its gonna lock up the brakes just touching them.

The car still pulls up fast with firm pressure and the pedal feels firm and not spongy, I just though maybe using a bigger master cylinder would give a better feel to the braking.

I had the same thing happen with my Leggy...you had to give it a good press to make it stop hard unlike the other cars you were mentioning...i drove a friends brand new mazda 3 and i tapped it and it felt like the brakes were gonna lock up...
but i liked it that way...so you can slowly apply pressure as to what kinda braking force you want...didnt make a difference even which i put RDA slotted rotors and new pads in...
 

Macca

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Toowoomba, QLD.
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Craig 'Macca' Mclean
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2000 Mitsubishi Legnum Type S
What pads are you using? It's amazing how much a different set of pads can make to pedal feel.

I'm using the girodisc "magic pads" they are suppose to be super quite but the still squealed until I put that orange stop squeal goop between the shims. Maybe I should put the DS2500 pads that were in the calipers when I got them back in.

I had the same thing happen with my Leggy...you had to give it a good press to make it stop hard unlike the other cars you were mentioning...i drove a friends brand new mazda 3 and i tapped it and it felt like the brakes were gonna lock up...
but i liked it that way...so you can slowly apply pressure as to what kinda braking force you want...didnt make a difference even which i put RDA slotted rotors and new pads in...

I like it that way too but I would prefer it to be just a little more touchy, not too much, new cars are terrible for it.
 

TME_Steve

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NSW
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Steve
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2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
More brake assistance is what youd be after, the 2500s probably wont help until you warm them up, then they bite more, but like a racecar, the pedal isnt overassisted unlike most new lower end euro/jap cars
 

Macca

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Toowoomba, QLD.
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Craig 'Macca' Mclean
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2000 Mitsubishi Legnum Type S
Yeah, I wouldn't mind a bit more assistance but I'm still very happy with the brake conversion.
 

steveP

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SA
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Steve
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VR4 Galant
It's a common issue when upgrading to bigger brakes. Happened on my Silvia too when I put on Skyline brakes. You need to press the pedal a little harder. Meh, what can you do.
 

[TUFFTR]

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Victoria
First Name
Paul
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Mitsubishi Magna
I upgraded the TR from a total of 4 pistons to now 10 and soon 12..........used a genuine PBR M/C as again mine was rooted and have had no issues whatsoever.

I don't track my car or anything (hell driving it on the roads is enough of a drama) but using the best pads you can with S/S lines is an awesome combo that won't hurt the pocket. Personally I steer clear of all those fancy shamcy slotted drilled crap and put the money into the pads and lines.
 
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