Fibreglass sub box

Riley

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
QLD
First Name
Riley
Drive
96 Legnum vr4
hi all im thinking of making a firbreglass subbox for the rear right corner of the boot to fit my 12" sub

what i was wondering if there is any interest in me making a mould so i can make more boxes.....if there isnt much interest i wont worry about it but i thought i would make the offer since im going to be making one for myself anyway

i will probably leave the baffle blank so you can cut it out for whatever size you decide and also probably leave it un finished so you can carpet it in what ever colour you like

i will be able to make them to spec if you provide me the dimentions of the hole you want and the colour of the carpet you want

im not sure what i would charge as yet - ill have to see how much it costs me to make them and how much time it takes

anyways just let me know if there is any interest
 
Rieley, most hard core car audio enthusiasts build their sub boxs to a specific internal volume depending on the make, size and desired bass outcome-SPL or SQ.

When you can post some specs of the sub box you build. Also your prob better off building the enclosure out of MDF. Fibre Glass can be used to shape the enclosure.

Good luck dude(y)
 
Rieley, most hard core car audio enthusiasts build their sub boxs to a specific internal volume depending on the make, size and desired bass outcome-SPL or SQ.

When you can post some specs of the sub box you build. Also your prob better off building the enclosure out of MDF. Fibre Glass can be used to shape the enclosure.

Good luck dude(y)

only the back and side will be fibreglass - to get the shape of the car

being a hard core audio enthusiast myself ive found that not many people are really interested in having a box that is the right volume. most of the time people will spend a few $$ on a sub that would technically need a box the size of our boot to sound "best".

once ive built one i will also be able to provide everyone with some idea of volume.....somewhere around 20 litres im guessing which should be alright for most applications
 
awesome ill probably start making one up on the weekend......bunnings here i come
 
hey man i built a custom Sub box to sit inside mums spare wheel in her Toyota Vitz it came out MINT!! but as it was a small small box housing a P2 Rocky it ws ok,but i can tell you that the fibreglass would flex on such a great surface!!,and the sound WONT be the same as what the MDf will produce.
i have designed a MDF box that sits in the sidewall and is produced to allow 22-32 ltrs in it and does not take up any usable room in the boot,see my "what do you want" listing in the customising section

ps good luck matey,
 
Use the least amount of fibreglass possible. It makes your sub sound rough IMO.

Apart from that, go nuts :D
 
Here's mine, made from MDF. I'm never doing another one though - it was a hell of a lot of work to get it shaped right!

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showpost.php?p=31966&postcount=61

I went for the convenience of having it quickly removable and unintrusive, rather than worry too much about sound quality. It's good enough for my ears anyway.
 
Here's mine, made from MDF. I'm never doing another one though - it was a hell of a lot of work to get it shaped right!

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showpost.php?p=31966&postcount=61

I went for the convenience of having it quickly removable and unintrusive, rather than worry too much about sound quality. It's good enough for my ears anyway.

yeah i can only imagine how much of a headache it would have been to make that.....ive made a few sub boxes using fibreglass and have never had any issues with them sounding bad - with a healthy application of dacron it should take care of any imperfection in sound

my current setup with my old sub in a prefab box sounds pretty terrible so hopefully ill have a new box knocked up soon
 
ive started working on the sub box......i decided to take out the side compartment to get some more volume....im planning on recessing the sub too so the big middle section will be free to lift up for access to the spare tyre, etc
 
Picturesssssssssssssssssssss

there will be some today......its all masked up ready to go.....about to start the glassing and will dynamatting inbetween layers

i havent fibreglassed for a few years so i might be a bit rusty
 
You going to put LEAD inbetween your layers of glass?? hmmmm otay!!!!!!
 
You going to put LEAD inbetween your layers of glass?? hmmmm otay!!!!!!

oh sorry i meant dynamatting my door/boot while i wait for the layers to dry on the box....i can see now i didnt word that quite right

here is a quick pic of where im up to.......will probably start on the baffle during the week and find a good fibreglass supplier

post-22510-1268565172.jpg


post-22510-1268565246.jpg
 
um are those pin holes circled? hmmmmmm,did you not Gelcoat your outer base first? and you know the tape will stick a % of its layer onto the fibreglass tho ey and youll never get it off lol.... and youd need it to be atleast 8mm thick to be any good lol.. but keep the pics and the updates rollin in....
 
um are those pin holes circled? hmmmmmm,did you not Gelcoat your outer base first? and you know the tape will stick a % of its layer onto the fibreglass tho ey and youll never get it off lol.... and youd need it to be atleast 8mm thick to be any good lol.. but keep the pics and the updates rollin in....

i just circled the thin parts that were a bit thinner so i dont miss them next time - i was wearing glassed while i was using the resin/catalyst and it was a bit dark in the car.....most of the tape came off in one go too

and as i said this the first layer......it should be pretty obvious from the fact that is see through at the moment....im guessing it will take 6-8 layers for glass
 
settle settle lol,i was merly enquiering thats all.... um if you used 1 sheet of glass you would not have thin areas tho... remembering that you wil find it hard to keep a consistant thickness throughout if you already have thin spots this early
 
settle settle lol,i was merly enquiering thats all.... um if you used 1 sheet of glass you would not have thin areas tho... remembering that you wil find it hard to keep a consistant thickness throughout if you already have thin spots this early

sorry mate i was in a rush this morning

im not sure how well one sheet would work on such a complex shape.....this is the way ive been taught by people that have been doing custom car audio work for 20+ years so i figure its good enough for me to do as well

and the reason i highlighted the thin spots was so i could make sure i got them properly the 2nd time around in the light.....im not too worried about making the whole thing the same thickness.....it will be thick enough so a mm here or there wont be an issue

i also plan to add some internal bracing, etc to give it some strength
 
awsum dude,you keep doing what your doing... at the end of the day its for YOU and as long as YOU are happy WHO cares ey?
i hope it does work out for you man..

ps 1 sheet aplication on large items is all i do.. couldnt even think of using small pieces to lay up the likes of the Undertrays , bumpers,etc.. flares and flaps,yup sweet az tho...
 
awsum dude,you keep doing what your doing... at the end of the day its for YOU and as long as YOU are happy WHO cares ey?
i hope it does work out for you man..

ps 1 sheet aplication on large items is all i do.. couldnt even think of using small pieces to lay up the likes of the Undertrays , bumpers,etc.. flares and flaps,yup sweet az tho...

yeah i can see why you would use one sheet for bumpers ect.......just the fact that there are so many curves going to opposite way and tight corners to get into

ill have a go at using some bigger sheets of matting tomorrow night and see how i go....i ran out of disposable gloves this afternoon so i didnt quite get the 2nd layer finished
 
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