Galant EA2A to VR4 Conversion

[Lokz]

Guys, I'm from the lovely island of Sri Lanka and I've been following ozvr4 for the longest time since I bought my Galant. Mine is a EA2A and comes with the 4G63 SOHC engine and front wheel drive.

There's not a single VR4 in the country right now and due to our imports restrictions, a VR4 cannot be brought down as is. However, conversions are possible within a very tight legal framework.

I'd like to convert my existing EA2A to a VR4 (EC5A) by importing the necessary bits from Japan. However, my biggest worry is whether the rear axle is a direct fit.

I'm attaching a few images of how the underside looks like on the EA2A.

I'm certain that the fuel tank will have to be swapped. But I'm not sure how the exhaust pipes are going to be relocated nor whether the project will entail that I have to replace the complete floor of the car. Any help you guys can provide is greatly appreciated and thanks in advance.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Doesnt fit. The floorpan is different on FWD cars. You need to cut the tunnel. Its a very big job. Unless you have good fabrication skills its probably cheaper to just import a VR4

 

[Lokz]

Hey Adam, thanks for the reply.

The problem is, we can't import any vehicle older than 3 years to Sri Lanka.

On the other hand, cost is quite low in Sri Lanka. To put things in perspective, a complete respray including all the prep work, paint, paint booth time and labour charges is around AU$ 1600 at the top end. So it's actually possible and cheaper to get down a dismantled VR4 and do the conversion.

Now, I'm looking at two scenarios.

1. Replace the complete floorpan of the car with a VR4 floorpan
2. Replace only the tunnel

In either case, what'll be the impact on the structural integrity of the car? Thanks in advance.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Fair enough.
Easiest way is to probably do the whoke floorpan. Unstitch the stock floor it from the sills and firewall and weld in the new one. Im not sure exactlyof the details but an old friend did it here in NZ and it was a shitload of work. Maybe the lower portion of the firewall is different too. and im uncertain what he did in the back to make the 4wd subframe bolt in.

You will pretty much need a whole donor car regardless.
The impact on the structural rigidity of the car is entirely dependant on the quality of workmanship carried out. But i would be cross bracing the fuck out of the sills and bottom of A B and C pillars before you start cutting bits out to make sure the body doesnt sag or warp when material is removed.

 

[Lokz]

Thanks Adam. Indeed sounds like a shitload of work. I understand your point about the firewall as well. Would be much obliged if you could take the time to check with your friend and let me know.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Im not in contact with him anymore sorry

 

[Lokz]

Thanks anyway Adam. Your insights were really valuable. I'll talk to a few of my mates about replacing the floorpan and the related structural integrity issues before I go ahead with anything.

 

[ersanalamin]

VR4 conversion is not that difficult. you dont need to replace the floorpan but you have to think twice if you intend to upgrade the exhaust pipe into 3 inch. 2,5 inch pipe diameter is maximum. 3 inch pipe will look the pipe hanging on the floor pan very risky to drive in bad condition road. the main difficulties is installing awd system indeed, thats included installing front and rear sub frame, awd gas tank, make a new exhaust pipe, and installing ayc. other than that is just a plug n play job, ordinary full OH job. mine originally EA5A, a VR4 awd converted. to make whole process easy you have to buy a good condition, complete VR4 halfcut plus awd system. including front and rear suspension (suspension spring has stiffer spring rate) or vr4 aftermarket suspension. coz if you cant, the conversion will be a mess, costly and time consuming job..

very cheap to import used vr4 but like your country, in my country imported car eligible only for brand new one, not a used one, so i have no option but convertion.

to give you insight and idea to start the work on awd installation just see this link. I myself learn the picture before i started the conversion

http://www.trinituner.com/v4/forums/viewtopic.php?t=176661

but if you want to run 6a13tt fwd i dont think the job is difficult. the main issue is only the rear turbo manifold and the alternator clearance, you have to cut the ea2a front sub frame.

here in indonesia we're doin a lot of EA5A to EC5A conversion, so if you have proper tools and
vr4 donor i dont see any reason you can not do the same in ur country.

your car floorpan is the same with mine (EA5A) and heres my car awd look underneath after AWD conversion

before conversion

and now look like this

everything in vr4 work in my car including the ayc system. will post more picture to give you more idea the whole process involved when i have time.

BUT if you want more power with cheaper cost you have to replace the engine with Evo 7-9. the engine mounting is plug n play. easier than 6A13TT swap with bigger potential power like this link

http://www.grandamgt.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86260

 

[Lokz]

Hey Ersan, thanks a bunch mate! your Galant looks proper. Kudos on a job very well done.

Folks in Sri Lanka are conversant in Evo conversions. On a daily basis we could be having at least 3-4 evo conversions. So whenever a conversion is brought down, they bring down everything except the A, B, C pillars and the roof lid. Everything else is brought down, including the body panels. If there's a sun roof, they bring down the roof lid too.

I understand the need of exchanging the front sub frame. Is it also necessary to reposition the firewall? Also, since the rear section is now going to receive a sub frame, is it necessary to reinforce mounting points?

Sorry about the stream of questions. It's a very good learning curve

I'm already on Tein coilovers. So I can carry that over to conversion. Do post some more pics. Really appreciate taking the time to post a detailed answer.

 

[ersanalamin]

Hey Ersan, thanks a bunch mate! your Galant looks proper. Kudos on a job very well done.

Folks in Sri Lanka are conversant in Evo conversions. On a daily basis we could be having at least 3-4 evo conversions. So whenever a conversion is brought down, they bring down everything except the A, B, C pillars and the roof lid. Everything else is brought down, including the body panels. If there's a sun roof, they bring down the roof lid too.

I understand the need of exchanging the front sub frame. Is it also necessary to reposition the firewall? Also, since the rear section is now going to receive a sub frame, is it necessary to reinforce mounting points?

Sorry about the stream of questions. It's a very good learning curve

I'm already on Tein coilovers. So I can carry that over to conversion. Do post some more pics. Really appreciate taking the time to post a detailed answer.

no floorpan replaced, no rear sub frame reinforced mounting point, not even firewall repositioned. like i said the main issue is AWD conversion not the engine swap. job related to give the car awd system is. as the front sub frame installation, there is a pair of front subframe support in EC5A that must be removed and welded into your EA2A front chassis. other than that is plug n play job, or should i say find and replace job. for sure there are lot of cutting and welding job like you see in trinituner website be sure to spray anti rust liquid before flinkote painting.

differences with evo awd conversion on non awd lancer is, in galant you dont have to guess where you should put the subframe bolt and nut, but awd evo and non awd lancer has different rear underneath bodywork thats why you have to buy evo floor pan to get the awd system work precisely in non awd lancer. and there is also front and rear reinforced mounting point differences in evo and lancer. In galant the point you need to get awd installed are already in its place you dont have to guess, thats why i said awd conversion in galant is more like find and replace job.

 

[Lokz]

no floorpan replaced, not even firewall repositioned. like i said the main issue is AWD conversion not the engine swap. job related to give the car awd system. as the front sub frame installation, there is a pair of front subframe support in EC5A that must be removed and weld into your EA2A. for sure there are lot of cutting and welding job like you see in trinituner website be sure to spray anti rust liquid before flinkote painting

Thanks for the clarification. I'll ping you on a PM for further information.

 

[ersanalamin]

I'm looking to convert my EC5W into a VR4... did you have any issue installing an AYC?

Pardon? Isnt ec5w already vr4 awd and ayc equiped wagon?

 

[Lokz]

Pardon? Isnt ec5w already vr4 awd and ayc equiped wagon?

Reckon he got the codes wrong. Could be the 1800CC GDI version he's talking about. Haven't seen a 2400CC GDI version Legnum. But could be either of the two.

 

[CANDEE]

Putting AYC in a non AYC car is not quite bolt in as the AYC cars and non AYC ones have different panels where the AYC pump sits(mainly for cables, hoses and mounting points from memory). Your best bet would be to ignore the AYC and just put an lsd centre in your non AYC diff. That way you wont have to change all the body looms in the car, just engine and dash ones from memory.

 

[Legless]

Putting AYC in a non AYC car is not quite bolt in as the AYC cars and non AYC ones have different panels where the AYC pump sits(mainly for cables, hoses and mounting points from memory). Your best bet would be to ignore the AYC and just put an lsd centre in your non AYC diff. That way you wont have to change all the body looms in the car, just engine and dash ones from memory.

Is the AYC module in the engine bay?

 

[ersanalamin]

Putting AYC in a non AYC car is not quite bolt in as the AYC cars and non AYC ones have different panels where the AYC pump sits(mainly for cables, hoses and mounting points from memory). Your best bet would be to ignore the AYC and just put an lsd centre in your non AYC diff. That way you wont have to change all the body looms in the car, just engine and dash ones from memory.

yes jeremy right.

putting ayc system to work on non ayc vr4 not quite simple job. its a depend whether your car is MT or AT, PFL or FL model. the main issue is wiring loom we need to get the ayc working.

CMIIW the parts we need to get ayc working on non ayc car are:
a. Dashboard harness and parts related to it ie, speedometer that has ayc indicator (MT or AT regardless PFL or FL), ETACS ECU, AYC ECU (located in upper left of passenger glove)
b. driver side wiring loom (harness from etacs to rear brake lamp)
c. 2 pc AYC gyro sensor, depend on ayc ecu and engine ecu version if your car is PFL (with PFL AYC ECU and wiring harness) use the one from evo 6, if your car FL (with FL AYC ECU and wiring harness) used the one from evo 7
d. Rear diff with ayc clutch. you can use super ayc from evo 8, way better than stock, browse the forum how to get it installed.
e. AYC pump assy (deck plate, hose, piping, reservoir and wiring included)

thats all i think

 

[CANDEE]

Is the AYC module in the engine bay?

the control box is usually on the passenger a pilar behind the glovebox from memory( well that was were it was in my fl till it got thrown in the bin).

 

[GMan]

yes jeremy right.

putting ayc system to work on non ayc vr4 not quite simple job. its a depend whether your car is MT or AT, PFL or FL model. the main issue is wiring loom we need to get the ayc working.

CMIIW the parts we need to get ayc working on non ayc car are:
a. Dashboard harness and parts related to it ie, speedometer that has ayc indicator (MT or AT regardless PFL or FL), ETACS ECU, AYC ECU (located in upper left of passenger glove)
b. driver side wiring loom (harness from etacs to rear brake lamp)
c. 2 pc AYC gyro sensor, depend on ayc ecu and engine ecu version if your car is PFL (with PFL AYC ECU and wiring harness) use the one from evo 6, if your car FL (with FL AYC ECU and wiring harness) used the one from evo 7
d. Rear diff with ayc clutch. you can use super ayc from evo 8, way better than stock, browse the forum how to get it installed.
e. AYC pump assy (deck plate, hose, piping, reservoir and wiring included)

thats all i think

You make it sound so easy...

 

[ersanalamin]

You make it sound so easy...

if we got all spare parts in hand, sure it will be easy, my car is MT with PFL EC5A wiring harness btw, like i said, its a find and replace job. I ve done it before during week end, its needs 3 week end (saturday and monday only). enjoy my time and no hurry. if its take a longer time just because a line with that i m doing in car cleaning service , basically we have to remove the dashboard, arm rest console, driver seat, rear seat, rear bumper, rear axle and drive shaft thanks god there is no sound system installed yet. I ve done the inside car by myself, and let the mechanic did the heavy stuff under neath