Had a crack at fixing a scuff, wish i didnt. HELP!

smitty

Sm'arter than the aver'age bear...!
Location
Frankston South, Victoria
First Name
Alex
Drive
98 FL Galant Type S Manual, FG XR6, VY Acclaim, MQ Triton GLS
Had a scuff on the bottom left of my bumper that a mate and i fixed ages ago with a rattle can of black gloss, but it was only meant as a short-term fix for Motorvate Melbourne (we did it the night before). So i decided to try and do a better repair the other day, as well as try and disguise an odd paint flake on the roof. Sanded it back all neat and smooth (was scuff where i kissed a lump of concrete was still rough) and had a paint shop make up a can of pyreness black.
This time round though, its turning out looking absolutely shite and powdery. I'm not doing anything different compared to last time which (except for the rough-sanded scuff) came out looking quite neat, smooth and almost seamless, albeit dull in sunlight compared to the rest of the pearl black.

Persevere? Give up and fork out heaps of coin for a panel shop to fix it? Anyone got tips??
 

snickells

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
Australia
First Name
Anon
Drive
Car
Ambient temprature when you sprayed? Did you spray in sunlight? Are you smoking crack again?
 

smitty

Sm'arter than the aver'age bear...!
Location
Frankston South, Victoria
First Name
Alex
Drive
98 FL Galant Type S Manual, FG XR6, VY Acclaim, MQ Triton GLS
No sprayed in the garage out of the sunlight, in yesterdays pleasant afternoon weather. No wind either. I dunno why, its just come up all powdery
 

godzilla

1 AYC Bar
Location
QLD / Tweed Coast
First Name
Trevor
Drive
1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Let me start by saying that i am the complete opposite to a pro when it comes to spray painting.

OK, what did you do after rough sanding the scuffed area? Did you prime it? For starters, regular paint hates going straight onto plastic. I learned this when painting my centre console.

Also, i got some "powder" type finishing on the first wheel i painted of mine. I found that it was caused by two things - 1) Holding the can to far away from the surface. This caused the paint to almost dry before it hit the surface. 2) I was spraying under strong 250w lights and in a confined space (In my garden shed). When the overspray floats around, it dries quickly under the heat from the laps the falls back onto the freshly painted (wet) surface and sits in it almost like grit.

This pissed me right off as i had to sand back the wheel and start again before i realized what the f&*k was going on. When doing it again, i made sure i held the can closer to give a nice wet finish and made sure i was not under lights. I also had the shed door open and when i laid a coat on, i would take the wheel out of the shed to avoid overspray landing on it.

I also had better results by making sure that i held the spray can as close to perpendicular to the surface as possible. Spraying on the angle just doesn't seem the be smooth

As Steve said too, what conditions are you spraying in?
 

smitty

Sm'arter than the aver'age bear...!
Location
Frankston South, Victoria
First Name
Alex
Drive
98 FL Galant Type S Manual, FG XR6, VY Acclaim, MQ Triton GLS
Was spraying in my garage with the roller door open and in mild (19 degs) weather. Held the can bout 40cm away, too far you reckon?
 

godzilla

1 AYC Bar
Location
QLD / Tweed Coast
First Name
Trevor
Drive
1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Way to far from my experience with cans.

Like I said, I was holding no more than 15cm for my best results.

Have you got something to practice on? My first practice was one wheel and at least one can of $25 paint before I got more confident.

Oh and you have a Black car, probably the hardest color to get right. Shows up EVERYTHING.

Just thought of something too. Are you going to put done clear over the top?
 

smitty

Sm'arter than the aver'age bear...!
Location
Frankston South, Victoria
First Name
Alex
Drive
98 FL Galant Type S Manual, FG XR6, VY Acclaim, MQ Triton GLS
Yep, got some clear. So should i wet sand/scour the areas i have painted that have fucked up?

Ok so 15cm away. quick, light passes or slow ones?
 

godzilla

1 AYC Bar
Location
QLD / Tweed Coast
First Name
Trevor
Drive
1/19 2002 FL Legnum Type 'S' Manual in Black with Suede Recaro's!
Light passes but not too quick. You'll get the feel of it.

It wont hurt to start again. You shouldn't have to sand back too far. Just enough to get it smooth. Dont forget to rewash and prepsol the area again to make sure there is no dust/dirt etc

P.S, how much are you paying for the paint and what size can?
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
now than mate on plastic you can wet sand it with a thousand grade. if you end up with bare plastic make sure you heat it up to make the realease agents come to the surface then wash well with hot soapy water. make sure its fully dry and apply a fine layer of plastic primer on.as soon as its got a dry finish look get your colour on first pass will be a fine coat, not important if it doesnt cover.as soon as thats gone off put a nice coat on. if its covered the final coat will to blend into the old paint, just a light coat towards the edges. let it dry well to get the solvents to disperse then your clear coat is to be put on across the whole bumper in a nice wet coat. if you can lay the bumper down would be better just incase it runs.
 

smitty

Sm'arter than the aver'age bear...!
Location
Frankston South, Victoria
First Name
Alex
Drive
98 FL Galant Type S Manual, FG XR6, VY Acclaim, MQ Triton GLS
Light passes but not too quick. You'll get the feel of it.

It wont hurt to start again. You shouldn't have to sand back too far. Just enough to get it smooth. Dont forget to rewash and prepsol the area again to make sure there is no dust/dirt etc

P.S, how much are you paying for the paint and what size can?

$29 for a can, says 400ml on the can but the paint shop's label says 100ml of paint....
 
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