Help with idle and start

[Legnum in America]

On Cold Start AFR is showing 11-12.5 750RPM
Warmed up 14.5-14.8 750RPM
When driving AFR is showing 14.5-14.8
When WOT AFR is showing 9.8-10.8
When I get to a stop and put car in Park AFR goes from 14.7-12.8 but if put car back in Drive AFR goes back to 14-14.5 RPM in Park rises to 1000RPM in Drive it is 750RPM

Idle Speed Controller was replaced a few months ago

 

[BCX]

Do you have an FPR? Whats the pressure set to? Still using the vac line that goes to the solenoid, or new vac source from manifold?

AFR hunting at idle is one of the reasons im running openloop all the time, it was a pita once i changed injectors. Mine idles like clockwork in openloop.

If you have the ability to log, would be good to check target idle speed. AFR will affect the idle speed, but the ecu might be intentionally trying to idle up.

 

[Legnum in America]

Do you have an FPR? Whats the pressure set to? Still using the vac line that goes to the solenoid, or new vac source from manifold?

AFR hunting at idle is one of the reasons im running openloop all the time, it was a pita once i changed injectors. Mine idles like clockwork in openloop.

If you have the ability to log, would be good to check target idle speed. AFR will affect the idle speed, but the ecu might be intentionally trying to idle up.

FPR is set to 34psi
FPR vac line goes to top of solenoid
Front of Solenoid goes to Manifold

I have attached the latest logs. I going to do another smoke test tomorrow. Can you explain more about the openloop?

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

34? Why so low?
Pretty standard to set it to 3 bar (45psi)
Also did you set the base pressure with the vaccum line dissconnected.

 

[Legnum in America]

34? Why so low?
Pretty standard to set it to 3 bar (45psi)
Also did you set the base pressure with the vaccum line dissconnected.

I was going off of the JDM Manual, as well as this information posted by VOLK.

I will set it up to 45psi when I get home.
I did not set the pressure with the hose disconnected.

"Section 13A-5 in the Japanese manual for reference.
13A-94 details the fuel pressure reg test procedure.

Original text
燃圧kPa {kgf/cm2}
バキュームホース接続時

• N/A 約265 {2.7}
• T/C 約230 {2.35}

バキュームホース取外し時

• N/A 324～343 {3.3～3.5}
• T/C 289～309 {2.95～3.15}"

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Yeah base pressure is 3 bar usually with no vaccum source and of course when you reconnect the vaccum source it will lower the pressure.

 

[Legnum in America]

Yeah base pressure is 3 bar usually with no vaccum source and of course when you reconnect the vaccum source it will lower the pressure.

I made the adjustment with the hose off at 45. When I put the hose back on it goes to 39

 

[BCX]

Assuming now your afr are richer?

Has this changed idle at all?

Eliminate the solenoid is another way to get afr more stable. At least the ecu cant control the fpr.

As for openloop vs closeloop, its basically an option in periphery to disabled close loop. It will only use the target afr value for fueling and ignore all other trims and adjustments. But it does mean that you'll need to adjust the cells in the target afr/fuel table for idle (idle is usually around 30% load so couple of cells in the top left corner).

Probably need to determine if the hunting afr is affecting your idle speed or not.

I wasnt able to open the log file you attached on my phone, but what did target idle say when it idled up? Are you logging afr in these logs, what was the afr when it was idling high?

If the idle up was commanded, then theres a small rabbit hole to go down there. If you have ecuflash, open the rom and look at the target idle tables, etc. if your ecu is tuned, it might be a copy over from another tune and you might need to restore the original values.

If they are std, then other things like engine temp value in logs, checking neutral switch working correctly, powersteer pressure switch, A/C, no additional electrical load, etc. All these affect idle.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Yeah, you've changed a physical attribute of the engines running but havent retuned it to suit so expect it not to be perfect.
As above when using an aftermarket FPR its standard to to remove the factory FPR Solenoid and hard wire the pump to 12v by deleting the fuel pump speed relay and resistor

 

[BCX]

As above when using an aftermarket FPR its standard to to remove the factory FPR Solenoid and hard wire the pump to 12v by deleting the fuel pump speed relay and resistor

Oh yeah, delete the resistor block and relay. Put dedicated run with thicker gauge to pump, and upgrade the earth too. The stock wire gauge cant cope (ie huge voltage drop) with a non oem pump, then the fact it switches the resistor block out of series with the pump at >80% load is just crap too. You can actually see the blip with wideband when it switches.

If you're running a 255 lph pump, you can probably get away with using the connector under the seat (cut and splice thicker cable before it, last half metre is old to the pump). Any larger, would try and use bulkhead connectors on the fuel pump cradle.

All of this stuff was put in to keep pump quiet, reliable, and/or to meet gov regulation/emissions regs. At the point you switch the fpr or pump out for larger, point is moot and you probably have no regard for gov/emissions regs

Off topic for your issue but yeah, no point putting fpr and uprated pump if this stuff is still in the picture imo.

 

[Legnum in America]

Oh yeah, delete the resistor block and relay. Put dedicated run with thicker gauge to pump, and upgrade the earth too. The stock wire gauge cant cope (ie huge voltage drop) with a non oem pump, then the fact it switches the resistor block out of series with the pump at >80% load is just crap too. You can actually see the blip with wideband when it switches.

If you're running a 255 lph pump, you can probably get away with using the connector under the seat (cut and splice thicker cable before it, last half metre is old to the pump). Any larger, would try and use bulkhead connectors on the fuel pump cradle.

All of this stuff was put in to keep pump quiet, reliable, and/or to meet gov regulation/emissions regs. At the point you switch the fpr or pump out for larger, point is moot and you probably have no regard for gov/emissions regs

Off topic for your issue but yeah, no point putting fpr and uprated pump if this stuff is still in the picture imo.

I should layout what performance mods have been done so far. As for the solenoid do I connect the vac line right to the manifold? (Image attached) Do I still leave the solenoid plugged in or disconnect?

Steve from TME has done a few remote tunes for me already. He is very busy though and not always available for questions.

1000cc Injectors
340LPH Fuel Pump
DW1000c FPR
3sx fuelrail bridge
Upgraded TB to 70mm
Ported intake to match TB
3-port Boost Controller
GFB T9033 BOV
COP Kit w/IK22 Plugs
Downpipe
EVO 4 De-cat
Fujitsubo Leglis R Exhaust
All boost pipes and turbo intake pipes are aluminum

Turbos are boosting at 17psi

 

[Legnum in America]

I resolved the issue, It was the ISC. This was the third time I've had to replace it but this one stinks and it started crackling when I had the ignition on.

 

[BCX]

Good to know, we overlooked given you said you replaced it.

Is this a genuine one?

 

[Legnum in America]

Good to know, we overlooked given you said you replaced it.

Is this a genuine one?

This one is not genuine but I did order it from Japan. The one that I just purchased is a genuine from Mitsubishi. It's the same as the eclipse and the eagle talon here in the US