Hesitation, diesel-like smoking and a strange ticking noise

JediRuss

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
Gunnedah, NSW
First Name
Russ
Drive
'98 Legnum
'98 Toyota MR2 Turbo
Gday

Have posted in another thread about the problem my car has developed. But I have noticed another symptom and was wondering if they are related.

When I first got the car it did it after I filled it with new fuel. Stalling trying to accelerate from standstill. Feels like its choking and coughing. Stuttering and hesitating as it revs out. Then it will puff a huge cloud of black smoke and clear itself out.

This happened very rarely.

But lately its every time I drive it. I got just over 200kms out of the last tank and I can see the back of the car covered in black crap.

I have noticed though that after I turn the car off there is a regular ticking sound coming from under it....roughly in the middle I would say.

The car has a SAARD R2D2 bov and an HDI electronic boost controller. I have done and ECU reset. My next step is to put the standard bov back on. But it is also due for a service.

Any ideas? Am I on the right track? Is the ticking somehow related?

Cheers
 
Black smoke & high fuel consumption? For a start I would say O2 sensor...
 
putting back your old BOV shouldn't make any difference.. if you're actually boosting more than 9psi.. you'll actually be wasting your boost/petrol/performance since the the oem BOV leaks when it is past 10psi (old saggy spring+plastic casing casing doesn't help IMO)

I'd say Tom's on the ball there.. try and replace your o2 sensor first and do a the typical 'ecu reset' and let the computer learn..

also have you replaced your plugs? that would help with your performance and economy as well..
 
I wouldnt rule out the aftermarket bov, my car had the same symptoms when i first got. I removed my blitz vta and put the stock plumb back on and it solved the problem. Not saying this will work in your case but if you have a stock one lying around try it out.

If you dont have one lying around just run without one for a tank and see if that cures it. Running without one for a tank wont be a problem.
 
just out of interests sake have you checked for any error codes?

for it to be as major as you say I wouldn't think an O2 sensor could cause it.
someone correct me if I'm wrong but don't most cars only use the o2 sensor when in open loop mode? i.e. him trying to accelerate from standstill should preclude the o2 sensor being part of the problem?

I would install any potentially helpful factory parts, obviously within reason - simply because then you can almost rule them out as being part of the cause
 
Does it work ok on full throttle above about 3000rpm or so? If so then it is more likely to be the O2 sensor than the BOV. If it was the BOV leaking enough to cause problems at idle and just above idle then it would lack power up in the rev range.
 
i just replaced my o2 sensor but still have the olld one-was working i think, i was just running a bit rich.
also have the stock bov, ran over it after i put in the evo mr one accidentally (so i definitely needed the new one) but it only broke some of the surrounding plastic.

im in cottesloe, you can have both if you like, not going to use them. if you wanted to swap these parts in to test if it fixes it shoot me a pm for my number
 
boost leak? a semi big one but not big enough for it to just conk out? or a blockage somewhere in the intake side? -though a blockage probably wouldnt cause the smoke, more just the conking out..
 
putting back your old BOV shouldn't make any difference.. if you're actually boosting more than 9psi.. you'll actually be wasting your boost/petrol/performance since the the oem BOV leaks when it is past 10psi (old saggy spring+plastic casing casing doesn't help IMO)

I'd say Tom's on the ball there.. try and replace your o2 sensor first and do a the typical 'ecu reset' and let the computer learn..

also have you replaced your plugs? that would help with your performance and economy as well..

really, then is explains my car a bit.... after market bov for me then~(y)
 
Im tempted to take mine off for a tank see if the stocko is leaking.
 
Well it turns out my AFM is knackered and I need another.

I have checked the parts # thread but no AMF is listed there.

Does anyone know the correct part # I need to get so I can tell the mechanic. Otherwise I'm gonna be stuck for a while until I can find one.

Cheers Guys
 
Well it turns out my AFM is knackered and I need another.

I have checked the parts # thread but no AMF is listed there.

Does anyone know the correct part # I need to get so I can tell the mechanic. Otherwise I'm gonna be stuck for a while until I can find one.

Cheers Guys

It is called a MAF, that is why you can't find it. How did you diagnose that it is faulty?
 
I had it booked in for a service today. New plugs, leads, filters etc. Spoke to the mechanic who has worked on Legnums/Galants back in NZ...in fact when I pulled up he said "ahh...a Leggie...haven't seen many of them over here!"

He said they've traced it to air flow meter. So yeah if that's the problem then I'm happy to have it replaced. But he can't find a part code for it, or a spare to test it out.

So the MAF is fairly robust on these engines then? Is he likely to be barking up the wrong tree?
 
whered you get the work done? always good to know more places round perth that know vr4's
 
If your really not sure, just ask one of the guys if you could borrow their MAF sensor for a spin around the block to see if that fixes it. I'm sure someone near you would help out.
 
Hey Dan. I have it down at UltraTune in Rockingham. The head mechanic there is a Kiwi and he has a lot of experience with VR4s since they are quite popular in NZ.

The only issue seems to be locating parts. He making some calls today to see what he can turn up. This is gonna sting....
 
There are a couple of guys on here selling parts from the cars post up a WTB in the classified section.
 
There are a few members down your way, hopefully one of them will be able to let you borrow their MAF sensor to test it out.

If you need to get a new one, the part number is MD334005. Contact Jesse Streeter and get one directly from Japan - you'll pay 200-300% markup buying in Australia.
 
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