J-B
Leaving Skid Marks
hey i was just wondering if the Engines in the Legnums and the Galants are free rolling, so that IF something goes wrong we might know how much damage may be done.
cheers
cheers
Is the 6A13 free-rolling?
- Thread starter J-B
- Start date
bradc
1 AYC Bar
nope! you'll bend about half of your valves. If you need to change your cambelt, just do it!
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
From what I know about the subject Jarred (not a great deal!) mostly your small engined cars are the only ones that are free rolling. Most larger engined and all high performance cars have overlapping valve & piston travel.
Hence one of the first things I'm doing to mine when it gets here is replacing the timing belt for a measly $242!
Hence one of the first things I'm doing to mine when it gets here is replacing the timing belt for a measly $242!
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
what's 'free rolling'
G
Guest
Unregistered
can spin the crank and not the cam shafts (or vice versa) and the pistons/valve wont collide
ie, in the event of a cam belt snapping
ie, in the event of a cam belt snapping
G
Guest
Unregistered
$242? for the belt maybe? Get the belt checked, but be prepared to pay more then that to get it changed by a mechanic, you have half a day's labor to even get the sucker off IMO From what i have heard from the NZ guys is that you are looking at $1000ish, and also factor in a new water pump while you are at it
bradc
1 AYC Bar
The belt here is about $160, but it will be like 8 hours to replace it!
G
Guest
Unregistered
i paid 850$ to get my na 6a13 shoc belts changed,
that was everything thou, water pump, tensioners, idlers, other aux belts,
was a half days work.
no point in only doing the belt as it would have to come off again to change the idles/tensioners, water pump,
my water pump started leaking at 140km ish
that was everything thou, water pump, tensioners, idlers, other aux belts,
was a half days work.
no point in only doing the belt as it would have to come off again to change the idles/tensioners, water pump,
my water pump started leaking at 140km ish
Esoteric
Leaving Skid Marks
I think they're called interference or non-interference engines (interference: valves meet pistons when cambelt snaps)
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
Yep, first (ok, probably fourth or fifth 
) thing I'm doing to it once I get it is taking it apart to do the belt and tensioner myself. I've found its a great way to learn about a new second-hand car and check it over mechanically
Carsten can you explain what you mean by idlers?
) thing I'm doing to it once I get it is taking it apart to do the belt and tensioner myself. I've found its a great way to learn about a new second-hand car and check it over mechanically Carsten can you explain what you mean by idlers?
G
Guest
Unregistered
little pully wheel things that help guide the belt...
do you have caps??
do you have caps??
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
No - is it possible to get hold of it??
G
Guest
Unregistered
ive just sent the latest version of caps to GavDaniels (Gavin)
he should have it in 3-10 days according to the post lady....
he may be willing to share?
other wise i can post a copy (6cds, mitsi caps 2006)
$25au delivered
he should have it in 3-10 days according to the post lady....
he may be willing to share?
other wise i can post a copy (6cds, mitsi caps 2006)
$25au delivered
G
Guest
Unregistered
Don't warry Joe, CAPS is the mitsi part's program, you need the NZ version to look up bits for the Legnum or Galant.
I have a Copy, And have had it working fine, but it can be a bit tricky to set up
I have a Copy, And have had it working fine, but it can be a bit tricky to set up
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
G
Guest
Unregistered
well jase ill talk to you more bout it at next meet cause im retarted..
o.k guys. This is from my experience.. I had posted(at the older forum) about some of my initial problems with the getting the legnum registered due to roadworthy(car was too low) as some of you may remember. That however was nothing compared to what I had to cop later on.
After getting roadworthy, I had issues getting the car registered because it was not listed in Vicroad's database. Anyways got everything sorted out and got it registered. the very next day , I just went out for a drive and to wash the car and buy some detailing products, on the way back the engine stalls and car rolls to a stop. Got it towed home by RACV and their mechanic said the Timing belt had broken.
I later stripped the motor(who else would have done it??) and noted broken belt and also that all inlet valves were bent. I also noticed that the water pump seemed sloppy, which is what I suspect caused the belt to shred at only 58000kms. I sourced the following parts from different places, including kempy's and some genuine parts from ebay and through mitsu.
Parts I changed and would recommend changed:
Water pump,
Timming belt,
All idler pulleys and tensioner pulley.
I also had to change all gaskets related to the heads and cam oil seals because heads had to be taken out for a valve job.
meanwhile I had the lash adjusters cleaned and checked as per workshop manual and it does make a big difference. The car sounds so much quiter now.
Now does all this trouble put me off a VR4?? No Way! The performance now and the joy of driving it is worth it. Also I now know much more about the car(especially after fitting the rear bank cams the wrong way around the first time!!).
Anyway I still have two sets of headgaskets left over if anyone needs some in the future. one is from RPW (carbon elastomer type) and the other is AJUSA MLS. I personally decided to go with the stock ones.
I have currently driven it for three weeks after repair and also had the oil changed again twice just to keep things clean.
Motor all back together again and now running fine.
I have also flushed out the transmission which has fixed the issue of shuddering at a constant speed of about 60-65km/h when the ATF had warmed up(lockup clutch issue).
After getting roadworthy, I had issues getting the car registered because it was not listed in Vicroad's database. Anyways got everything sorted out and got it registered. the very next day , I just went out for a drive and to wash the car and buy some detailing products, on the way back the engine stalls and car rolls to a stop. Got it towed home by RACV and their mechanic said the Timing belt had broken.
I later stripped the motor(who else would have done it??) and noted broken belt and also that all inlet valves were bent. I also noticed that the water pump seemed sloppy, which is what I suspect caused the belt to shred at only 58000kms. I sourced the following parts from different places, including kempy's and some genuine parts from ebay and through mitsu.
Parts I changed and would recommend changed:
Water pump,
Timming belt,
All idler pulleys and tensioner pulley.
I also had to change all gaskets related to the heads and cam oil seals because heads had to be taken out for a valve job.
meanwhile I had the lash adjusters cleaned and checked as per workshop manual and it does make a big difference. The car sounds so much quiter now.
Now does all this trouble put me off a VR4?? No Way! The performance now and the joy of driving it is worth it. Also I now know much more about the car(especially after fitting the rear bank cams the wrong way around the first time!!).
Anyway I still have two sets of headgaskets left over if anyone needs some in the future. one is from RPW (carbon elastomer type) and the other is AJUSA MLS. I personally decided to go with the stock ones.
I have currently driven it for three weeks after repair and also had the oil changed again twice just to keep things clean.
I have also flushed out the transmission which has fixed the issue of shuddering at a constant speed of about 60-65km/h when the ATF had warmed up(lockup clutch issue).
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
Sheesh that's REALLY not good - glad to hear its all back together and running fine! And thanks HEAPS for taking the time to write that up on here!!
