List of Problems... Please add to it

VOLK

Stabbin' technique!
Location
QLD - BNE
First Name
Joey T
Drive
13 RA Lancer Hackzilla
Cold start enrichment (to an extent) is normal. O2 ignored when cold.
 

AKKO

2 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
WA
First Name
Chris
Drive
1998 Galant VR4 Type-V (Facelift)
Is your fuel pump resistor bypassed or faulty, look for the hedhog on the firewall...
 

jungle

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
QLD
First Name
Simon
Drive
1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
Heater was working now nit. I can the flap making some noise when I change the temp with the rotary knob. I guess it's not actually moving the door though.

I know the feed to the heater picks off the thermostat housing, pretty certain it's not that.

Anyone else had this problem
 

nelly

Idling at the Lights
Location
new zealand
First Name
nels
Drive
8g galant
hei guys seems to pretty on to it peeps on here of gt a hd button clutch I want to put in I was wandering if I shuld gt a light chromoly flywheel or gt my standard 1 lightened and balanced wat do use recommend thanks
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
hei guys seems to pretty on to it peeps on here of gt a hd button clutch I want to put in I was wandering if I shuld gt a light chromoly flywheel or gt my standard 1 lightened and balanced wat do use recommend thanks

This is not a replacement for the old lazyfat thread. If you want people to answer your questions, post up an Intro and tell us about yourself and your car.

Also... what did you say?
 

craig

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Craig
Drive
1998 Legnum Super VR-4, Silver (project)
1997 Galant VR-4, soon to be manual
2004 Toyota Funcargo, Silver (daily)
Top radiator tank has a crack in it. Going to get an alloy radiator this time and do it myself, will probably cost less than it did to get the tank replaced on my galant.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
My alloy radiator cost me $300 and me and a mate fitted in an hour
 

Billy

Idling at the Lights
Location
Qld
First Name
Billy
Drive
2012 Nissan D22
2013 kawasaki Ninja 300
As a perspective buyer this thread is a little concerning lol, how does everybody go about getting parts? Thanks
 

Billy

Idling at the Lights
Location
Qld
First Name
Billy
Drive
2012 Nissan D22
2013 kawasaki Ninja 300
Thats good to know, ive had my fair share of maintenance heavy cars lol so thats nothing new and it will be a 15-20 year old car, just comes down to service history and previous owners... Am I dreamin or what :)
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
This is a very old thread... it's a lot easier to find parts nowadays, and plenty of forum members can point you towards good mechanics or even help you personally.
 

Scradam

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
Adam
Drive
Manual Series 2 VR4 Legnum
Thats good to know, ive had my fair share of maintenance heavy cars lol so thats nothing new and it will be a 15-20 year old car, just comes down to service history and previous owners... Am I dreamin or what :)

You're dead on. I would not say these cars are unreliable at all. As with any car, history and age will mean things need replacing.
When things do happen, however, it costs a little more than your average skyline or commodore. No more expensive to maintain than a Euro car though!
 

REI600

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Rockhampton, QLD
First Name
Ian
Drive
1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
So... From what i have read here about tappet noise, a large cause is the wrong oil going through them. Which is the EASY fix if it is the issue. Replacing lifters is obviously far more of a job than the oil.

Say my engine has had the wrong oil running in it. You guys recommend emptying it, doing an engine clean and then topping up with 5w-30w? or something thicker like 15w-50w? I am not too sure what brand would be good with these or synthetic/semi or natural?

Any hints?

If the tappets keep chattering away after this, i'll have to look at replacing them i think. The car has around 150k on the clock and i currently live in rockhampton but will be moving to brisbane in the coming years,
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
5w30 will probably help greatly, but if you have even one of the 24 things being stubborn you're always going to get the annoying noise. I replaced them at around the same KM, never had a single tick from then on, even going to a 10w40. The newer lifters are also of a better design depending which you buy.
 

Size1

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
N.S.W
First Name
Simon
Drive
00 legnum vr4
There is a whole thread on oils that you would be best reading up on. As for your lifters at 150k they are probably at the end of their life especially considering you dont know the service history. For instance I have only used 5w30 Nulon full synthetic and I am first Australian owner. My car has 116k on the clock and my lifters are starting to go.
 

REI600

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Rockhampton, QLD
First Name
Ian
Drive
1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
There is a whole thread on oils that you would be best reading up on. As for your lifters at 150k they are probably at the end of their life especially considering you dont know the service history. For instance I have only used 5w30 Nulon full synthetic and I am first Australian owner. My car has 116k on the clock and my lifters are starting to go.
Thats what i was thinking :) The guy that owned it prior to me, not great with cars and before that... who knows :) I will probably focus more on replacing them then simply applying the oil coated band-aid :D
 

AKKO

2 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
WA
First Name
Chris
Drive
1998 Galant VR4 Type-V (Facelift)
Thats what i was thinking :) The guy that owned it prior to me, not great with cars and before that... who knows :) I will probably focus more on replacing them then simply applying the oil coated band-aid :D

Oil is done every 5,000kms anyway... no band aid there unless your talking additives.

Tried the Proma ML8 myself before I knew better as with most, but replacing the lifters is the only long term answer
 

REI600

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Rockhampton, QLD
First Name
Ian
Drive
1998 Legnum VR4 5 spd Manual
1996 Mazda Proceed 4x4
Project - Datsun 1600 Turbo rotary conv.
Bandaid referred to simply changing oil when a lifter swap is needed. That's all.

As for lifters, anyone point my in the right direction for a nice set of 24?

Thanks guys.
 

jungle

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
QLD
First Name
Simon
Drive
1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
There is a whole thread on oils that you would be best reading up on. As for your lifters at 150k they are probably at the end of their life especially considering you dont know the service history. For instance I have only used 5w30 Nulon full synthetic and I am first Australian owner. My car has 116k on the clock and my lifters are starting to go.
Then I suggest your car has a lot more than 116k.
My engine has 272xxxkm on it at least that's what the odo says. My lifters are fine, I've done 200 000km km on it.
 

Dice

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Gold Coast QLD
First Name
DiceR
Drive
Galant VR-4 2xT25bb
Nissan Cube
Then I suggest your car has a lot more than 116k.
My engine has 272xxxkm on it at least that's what the odo says. My lifters are fine, I've out 200 000km km on it.
FL or PFL? My Super started to tick some time after 100,000KM but my Galant FL has 130,000KM and no ticking at all. Simon is in too warm a climate for ticking lifters anyway :cool:
 
Top Bottom