Looking for something that will replace the stock speakers

[minik1971]

My answer would be to run the front speakers and sub off the amp if you don't have enough amps to run whole system off amps. Rear speakers in a proper car audio system are only fill they actually can ruin your front staging and imaging. But hey I am sure there are other guys on here still in the industry that will give a better explanation on setting up a system. I have been out of car audio for about 8 years now.

 

[w1k3d]

My answer would be to run the front speakers and sub off the amp if you don't have enough amps to run whole system off amps. Rear speakers in a proper car audio system are only fill they actually can ruin your front staging and imaging. But hey I am sure there are other guys on here still in the industry that will give a better explanation on setting up a system. I have been out of car audio for about 8 years now.

+1

Sound travels backwards so front speakers are most important; rears are just fill for like when you turn your head or for people in the back. Sub's are a omnidirectional device so sound waves travel in all directions so all you need to worry about is direction of the subs firing for best reverb response.

Simple setup:
Front Speakers (amp)
Rears Speakers (HU)
Sub (amp)

It takes a little time and effort to run the lines to the boot but it keeps all your amps in one place (nice and neat) and also is the best cooling option for them. Many times I had customers complaining about their speakers cutting out from previous installs; this is due to the lack of air-flow under the drivers seat in most cars. A little bit more effort will pay off in the long run.

 

[pu-11-me]

+1

Simple setup:
Front Speakers (amp)
Rears Speakers (HU)
Sub (amp)

+2

Exactly how my system is currently setup

When finished, its going to be 4 channels to front (Channel per woofer/channel per tweeter), rears off HU and monoblock for 2 subs

OR

I might use the add a woofer setup and bridge the fronts with an added woofer in rear doors..... Still haven't decided yet haha

 

[Guest]

... and also is the best cooling option for them. Many times I had customers complaining about their speakers cutting out from previous installs; this is due to the lack of air-flow under the drivers seat in most cars.

You reckon that little blower/aircon vent under the front seats would be enough airflow to prevent overheating of the amps, I know if depends on what amp your using and how hard you run, but certainly a little airflow would help wouldn't it?

Also, from what I can gather both the Alpine Type-X and Type-R tweeters fit in the stock location (I'm assuming the Type-S would as well), can anyone else confirm what other tweeters fit? Trying to maintain that clean, stockish look.

 

[MasqUAP]

Good to see this convo dissolved into exactly what the OP didn't want

End result is I think any of the mid ranges of speakers will do you well, higher end generally need an amp which OP doesn't want. I still use my factory speakers in the Focus running off the headunit (I believe they're Pioneer?) and have an amp only for the sub, which is purely optional obviously.

Sounds wise I've heard good things from and about Rainbow, but AFAIK they're somewhat pricey, Polk (not sure on pice) are good, a little sharp on treble but still give good bass and Pioneer which really are middle of the range affordable speakers you'd replace some factory ones if you're not really looking to go OTT

My 2c

-Dave-

 

[Guest]

So where is the major let down with the stock sound system? Is it the head unit or the speakers? I have MMCS with the 10 stacker and would actually like to keep that and also run my MP3 player into the A/V input.

Can I just replace the speakers, or is an amp a must? I'm not too fussed about a subwoofer as long as there is a little bass there to fill out the sound and not too tinny. Do crossovers make much of a difference? I'm assuming the factory system doesn't have any. I'll most like be heading to Jaycar to do any upgrades on the cheap.

 

[James]

I'm curious on this one too actually. I have a set of 6 x 9's sitting around that I'm thinking of bolting straight into the front if they will go straight in??

Then soon I'll be getting a Pioneer head unit, and some speakers for the rear.

I have a crappy Boss amp and Pioneer 12" sub too but the sub won't be going in as we need the space...

 

[happymatch]

I'm curious on this one too actually. I have a set of 6 x 9's sitting around that I'm thinking of bolting straight into the front if they will go straight in??

Then soon I'll be getting a Pioneer head unit, and some speakers for the rear.

I have a crappy Boss amp and Pioneer 12" sub too but the sub won't be going in as we need the space...

i do not think 6x9 will fix without any modifications to our door trims. i installed a stealth sub in the boot where it hides under the boot floor.

this is what other members did with 6x9's

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1027&highlight=stealth&page=7

and this is my set-up



very hard to draw with mouse

and stealth box

http://ozvr4.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1804&highlight=stealth

at page 4,there is my box. sounds pretty good with good mid to low bass, but for trained ears or sensitive people, it would just sound ok.

ask around and search. you might fidn a good set-ups here~

good luck

 

[pu-11-me]

So where is the major let down with the stock sound system? Is it the head unit or the speakers? I have MMCS with the 10 stacker and would actually like to keep that and also run my MP3 player into the A/V input.

Can I just replace the speakers, or is an amp a must? I'm not too fussed about a subwoofer as long as there is a little bass there to fill out the sound and not too tinny. Do crossovers make much of a difference? I'm assuming the factory system doesn't have any. I'll most like be heading to Jaycar to do any upgrades on the cheap.

PM __ET__ (Emanuel) as he has MMCS with a stacker and a nicely built system around it. He may be able to point you in the right direction

On the cheap i would stick with stock speakers and a small sub to fill the bass hole. It works OK if you don't want to spend big bucks (Its how my blue car is setup). If possible, get a HU with high pass filter for the speakers, you'll thank me later

And go do some reading up on stereos and in car sound. MEA (Mobile Electronics Australia) would be a good place to start.

I'm curious on this one too actually. I have a set of 6 x 9's sitting around that I'm thinking of bolting straight into the front if they will go straight in??

Then soon I'll be getting a Pioneer head unit, and some speakers for the rear.

I have a crappy Boss amp and Pioneer 12" sub too but the sub won't be going in as we need the space...

6x9's are poo IMO (No offence ) and would be outdone by the stock splits anyway, not to mention the 10 hours of modifying to get them in. Stealth install the amp and put the sub in where its easily removable, you'll be far better off. Just leave the stockies in or replace the splits with splits and rears with 2 ways

AND JONO!!! FFS man go do some art classes lol..... You get the boost controller in bro?

 

[cyber_scriber]

Hi Dimi.

If I understand your requirements correctly, you are after the following:

a) straight forward, drop in speakers;

b) good bass;

c) no upgrading of head unit; and

d) no amplifiers.

If that is the case, then I would suggest a 6.5 inch set of component speakers with a very high sensitivity rating (greater than 90). Assuming you are on a budget, take a look at the usual suspects e.g. Alpine, Pioneer, low and mid range Focus etc and focus on the sensitivity rating.

The reason for this is because the higher the sensitivity rating, the louder and more efficient the speaker is on the same power as a lower sensitivity speaker. As you are not using an amp, this becomes even more important.

You will find that most head units are rated at around 50-60 watts peak power (with the Galant / Legnum head unit probably producing even less than that). Most good component speakers can handle 150-200 watts. Obviously, you can see that the head unit will not be able to drive the speaker to its potential. This is why people run amps.

The disappointing news is that if you are after good bass, no 6.5 inch speaker is really going to cut it. Bass requires large speaker surface area (think subwoofers) and most component speakers have crossovers that purposely filter out the bass so as to ensure clarity and to minimise distortion. Component speakers are very good at mid range and treble - bass is not their thing.

You haven't told me what your budget is for these speakers. This makes a huge impact on what I can recommend. The top end of town (think Boston Acoustics, Rainbow, Focal Utopias, Dynaudio etc) will generally handle "bass" and can play down to 50Hz better than most but don't expect too much change from $1k. In any event, it would be a travesty to run such exquisite speakers off the head unit and without a subwoofer to match.

The other thing I would recommend for non-amped systems is to ensure that when you install your front component speakers, you also sound deaden both the inner and outer door skin. Something like a Dynamat door kit will do the trick. Ensure all service holes are covered up with MDF and wrap all metal rods in tape. Sound deadening the door makes a huge difference to a speaker's response and clarity. The added bonus is that it will also reduce unwanted road noise in the cabin, which means you don't need to crank your speakers as hard for the same volume and the same "bass".

Hope that helps.

 

[happymatch]

AND JONO!!! FFS man go do some art classes lol..... You get the boost controller in bro?

I got the boost controller installed and works well. thanks for your advise~ boost gauge works good too.. took me about 2 hours to do gauge and the controller. will bring some photos later at another thread~

 

[pu-11-me]

Top post Bruce

I got the boost controller installed and works well. thanks for your advise~ boost gauge works good too.. took me about 2 hours to do gauge and the controller. will bring some photos later at another thread~

Top work man! Post something in your members rides and we'll have a yarn about it there

 

[steveP]

just did the speakers on my vr4, so this info may be useful, maybe not.

first of all i had planned on getting 6.5" splits front and 6.5" 2 way speakers rear to fit into the factory fittings with minimal modifcations.

so anywho was looking around in shops for the best deal, didnt wana cheap out, but i mean its my daily so didnt need to be super fricken awesome speakers. ended up getting 2 sets of MB Quart splits (6.5"). haha yes, ur prob wondering how i came to decide on them. well the sales guy wanted to clear the remaining stock before the new models came in. and said he would do another set of splits for the same price as the speakers, as theres a $50 difference and quality between the 2 was vast. anyways talked him down from $900 to $550 for the 2 sets

now firstly i did the fronts. using the write ups on here as a guide. theres no cross over for the factory splits, but 2 wires running parallel. one is slightly thinner running to the tweeter, so that was disconnected and everything wired up as it should be. the tweeter fit in factory spot no probs. the woofer fit.. but the the mounting holes didnt. but seeing the spacer in the door is just plastic, drilled a few holes and everything was sweet.

also note, the MB Quart splits are almost the same dimensions as the factory splits/speakers. so depth or whatever isnt an issue.

now with the rears.. like the front woofer, the woofer fits in the factory location, but the holes dont line up, i was able to relatively easily drill some new holes in the parcel shelf. the crossovers have been mounted under the shelf. so its all stealth and factory looking. but what to do with the tweeters..?
could have f**ked around drilling holes in the parcel shelf, or mounting in the the C pillars, but there was no EASY or NEAT way of doing it. looked at it for about an hour wishing i had just got 2 way speakers as i would have been done 2 hours earlier. then i noticed with the speaker grill/cover, its a weird rectangle shape, where the speaker is only round, doh. there was a large section of the grill that was pure solid plastic. so drilled a bit out. mounted the tweeters to that. and bam, finished. it does look very neat and almost factory. ill upload some pics later.

now im sussing out a sub install and amps. ill keep u guys posted how it goes.

 

[cyber_scriber]

Top post Bruce

I was worried that this thread was getting off topic and thought that Dimi would appreciate some advice directly on point

 

[dimi_108]

Hi Dimi.

If I understand your requirements correctly, you are after the following:

a) straight forward, drop in speakers;

b) good bass;

c) no upgrading of head unit; and

d) no amplifiers.

If that is the case, then I would suggest a 6.5 inch set of component speakers with a very high sensitivity rating (greater than 90). Assuming you are on a budget, take a look at the usual suspects e.g. Alpine, Pioneer, low and mid range Focus etc and focus on the sensitivity rating.

Hey Bruce, thank you very much for your recommendation.
You're spot on and that's exactly what I want.

Seeing as you recommended 6.5's, I will take a look at a set this weekend. I'll go into Strathfield Car Radios and check it out.

A set of 4 would be a direct fit for front and rear, right?

 

[cyber_scriber]

Hey Bruce, thank you very much for your recommendation.
You're spot on and that's exactly what I want.

Seeing as you recommended 6.5's, I will take a look at a set this weekend. I'll go into Strathfield Car Radios and check it out.

A set of 4 would be a direct fit for front and rear, right?

Hi Dimi.

In my opinion, the front stage is the most critical aspect of any car stereo system. This means that the front speakers are the most important in the system.

The rear speakers' primary purpose is for ambience and to create "rear fill" in a set up. Some car stereo systems designed for quality do not even run rear speakers!

Just take a look at any audiophile grade home stereo system. The 2 front speakers are normally the largest and most prominent speakers. The rear speakers are usually tiny in comparison and in terms of power handling.

Given the above, your aim should be to spend the bulk of your money on the front speakers. I like to go by the 80/20 rule - if you have $200 to spend on front and rear speakers, spend 80% on the front and 20% on the rear i.e. $160 for the front splits and $40 for the rear speakers.

For guidance, in one of my previous cars, I spent $800 for the front component speakers and $150 for a set of 2 way rear speakers.

The rears do not need to be a component set. A simple 2 way coaxial speaker will suffice for rear speaker duties and even then, many sound quality stereos have the rear speakers filtered so they play no bass and no treble. Remember, the front stage is critical so you want the best possible speakers for that and splits are ideal.

I can't stress enough how much an amp (even a small one) will make a difference to the performance of your splits but I do appreciate that you do not want to go down the amp or subwoofer route.

Whether the speakers will be a direct fit into the factory locations will depend on whether the mounting holes line up. If they don't line up, it's no big deal as you can either drill new holes in the existing mounting brackets or make up an MDF spacer to suit. You only need to ensure that the speaker size is roughly equivalent to the factory speaker size e.g. no point trying to install 6 x 9's in the factory location of 6.5 inch speakers.

Again, I would recommend sound deadening the doors if the budget permits.

If you are going to check out Strathfield, also consider JB Hifi. They are generally able to do good cash deals and will usually match or beat prices that you are quoted elsewhere.

 

[cyber_scriber]

ended up getting 2 sets of MB Quart splits (6.5"). haha

Steve.

With respect, running 2 sets of component speakers (with one mounted in the front and the other mounted in the rear) is going to cause havoc with your sound staging and imaging!

I prefer your original plan of front splits and rear 2 way coaxials but would be interested to know what results you get with the current set up.

 

[happymatch]

A set of 4 would be a direct fit for front and rear, right?

dimi, i think 6' for the rear was the right size for me. What cyber_srciber saying is so true. from one is th main ones and you do not have to get the top of the line for the rear. if you need a sub and just a mornal one to boost the bass, let me know. I have brand new still in the box pioneer sub gathering dust.

 

[dimi_108]

Cool. I appreciate the info Bruce - i'm definitely learning a lot from it!

I wouldn't mind having an amp, it's just I don't want to change my head unit. I'd like it to stay OEM and retain the factory look of the center console
Now, is it possible to have an amp and "upgraded speakers" while using the factory head unit?

 

[cyber_scriber]

Cool. I appreciate the info Bruce - i'm definitely learning a lot from it!

I wouldn't mind having an amp, it's just I don't want to change my head unit. I'd like it to stay OEM and retain the factory look of the center console
Now, is it possible to have an amp and "upgraded speakers" while using the factory head unit?

It most certainly is. If the factory head unit has RCA outputs, then it will be pretty straight forward to wire up an amp.

Given the age of the Galant / Legnum, I'm guessing that the factory head unit does not have RCA outputs so you will need a line out converter in order to connect an amp.

Any half decent audio shop can do this install.

If you are getting an amp, make sure you get one that is rated at least 50 watts RMS not 50 watts peak power. The RMS rating is basically the power that it can provide all day, every day whereas the peak rating is only what it can produce for a fraction of the time and in limited operating circumstances.

As you are not using a sub, all you need is a 2 channel amp rated at least 50 watts rms per channel. It's pretty easy to get something decent for under $100.

When you are negotiating the purchase of the front splits, rear co-axials and amp, bargain hard! Get them to do a package deal for you or ask them to throw in the co-axials for free.