Mitsubishi RVR

[king_panther]

Not so much the price, but some over there have got some really good km's.

Even factoring for shipping, compliance etc they still work out to be good value compared to buying a local one. Lowest non-turbo I've found has 136,000kms on it.
It's a buyer's market at the moment so I'm just waiting around...

 

[king_panther]

Damn that sux ....... just read the DOTARS crap...

Oh well back to looking locally..

 

[ygoslo]

Yep sure does suck... Just remember who's to blame...

 

[king_panther]

Yep sure does suck... Just remember who's to blame...

Yes.

Johnny from the block.

He's the one who also stopped me from registering an ST-R too so I had to get the VR4.

Curse you Howard !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :001_mad::001_mad::001_mad::001_mad::001_mad::001_mad::001_mad:

 

[trounced]

it cant just be about the 110kw/ton though

the delica is 2 ton and yet around 90kw

how do you get them imported if its not the same power to weight ?

must go on something different for the 4x4's maybe this is under that section and doesnt need the power.

 

[sexspecvr4]

just remember the 4g63 in the rvrs have 7 bolt crank wich = crank walk . 6 bolt 4gs are the way to go trust me i had crank walk on my hyper sport .

 

[king_panther]

just remember the 4g63 in the rvrs have 7 bolt crank wich = crank walk . 6 bolt 4gs are the way to go trust me i had crank walk on my hyper sport .

& crank walk is what exactly ????

 

[king_panther]

OK I've now since replaced the Grandpa with a Mitsubishi RVR. It's a 1995 model but with the works. Non-turbo which was exactly what I was after. Helps with my seating position & much easier for the wife to get in & out of due to her disabilities. It's an absolute gutless wonder & only a 4-sp auto, but at least my maintenance & fuel bills are going to take a drastic cut!

Here's some pics;

It's a standard 4G63 2L 4-Cylinder DOHC engine, though I must say it still puts out a fair amount of heat, even compared to our 6A13TTs. Might go looking for a turbo-scoop bonnet to bring in more cold air.
Will factor in a trans-cooler, & maybe an aftermarket muffler, & DEFINATELY cruise control. Oh boy how I miss having that!!!!
Apart from that, it'll stay pretty much stock.

 

[Hotwire]

Sorry, but that is ugly!
Surely there was a better looking economical option?? :001_huh:

 

[king_panther]

Sorry, but that is ugly!
Surely there was a better looking economical option?? :001_huh:

Pfft better than a SubaPOO !!!

It's bought for a function, not to look good at all. It's exactly what I'm after for work, plus for the wife too.

& it's still a 4WD Mitsubishi too.

 

[ygoslo]

Might go looking for a turbo-scoop bonnet to bring in more cold air.

Don't do that. If you want to get the hot air out, fit a rearward facing vent.

I like the car. Well, I like how it looks. I'm not so partial to the n/a auto thing...

 

[bradc]

Cool, it has 5 stud hubs, go with some EVO 8 wheels

 

[king_panther]

Cool, it has 5 stud hubs, go with some EVO 8 wheels

Errr..... perhaps not Brad. No spending on this car unless required = more money for the Super.
Will definately get a cruise control system fitted again though. Perhaps a new headunit for the stereo.

I will say one thing this car has that the Legnum does not - a decent turning circle!!!

From some more reading, it appears the 4-sp auto is also an INVECS box. Does that bloody annoying downhill downshifting business that unfortunately I cannot control with this car as it has no tippy option unlike the Legnum.

 

[CLuTZ]

I own a non turbo RVR and I love it! Sure, it's not exactly the most beautiful car on the planet, but they are ultra reliable and ticked all the boxes when I was looking for a new daily driver.

Fuel economy isn't the best partly due to it's weight- I get around 400km from 50L around town and 530km on the open road. Mine's a 5-speed though. I put in a K&N panel, E39A VR4 twin pots, 16" FTO wheels, RSR springs, Meek shifter bushes and some car audio. The car handles surprisingly well, but is pretty gutless. Could always bang an EVO motor in as it has EVO 1-3 3.909 driveline in it standard, with a viscous LSD. The guy who said the 7-bolts cranks are shit needs to do his homework. Oh, and the interior really isn't hat bad! Better than fake wood trim etc anyways.



[Image not found]

 

[Emu]

Non-turbo which was exactly what I was after. Helps with my seating position & much easier for the wife to get in & out of due to her disabilities.

I read this the first time and thought..."Shouldn't the turbo be under the bonnet and not in your lap. I know it's only a smll car but why would the turbo be inside?" Then realised the two sentences were not related. hmy:

That "would" make the seating position uncomfortable....but it would be easier to hear it spool up....

Looks Pretty Brad....

 

[ygoslo]

I own a non turbo RVR and I love it! Sure, it's not exactly the most beautiful car on the planet, but they are ultra reliable and ticked all the boxes when I was looking for a new daily driver.

Fuel economy isn't the best partly due to it's weight- I get around 400km from 50L around town and 530km on the open road. Mine's a 5-speed though. I put in a K&N panel, E39A VR4 twin pots, 16" FTO wheels, RSR springs, Meek shifter bushes and some car audio. The car handles surprisingly well, but is pretty gutless. Could always bang an EVO motor in as it has EVO 1-3 3.909 driveline in it standard, with a viscous LSD. The guy who said the 7-bolts cranks are shit needs to do his homework. Oh, and the interior really isn't hat bad! Better than fake wood trim etc anyways.

Your car looks great! Bit brave running those plates though....

 

[CLuTZ]

Your car looks great! Bit brave running those plates though....

Yeah well- little do they know what really lurks behind those plates! :tongue_smilie:

[Image not found]

Lets call the RVR a promotional vehicle

 

[Guest]

Crankwalk is excessive lateral play on the crankshaft. Infamous on the 7 bolt 4g63 because it became relatively common. Even freshly rebuilt motors could succumb to it.

http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/answers-terms.htm#whatiscrankwalk
[SIZE=+1]"What is 'crank walk'? [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]What is a 'walking' crankshaft? [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]Is there a recall or TSB regarding the crank walk problem? [/SIZE]
[SIZE=+1]How can I tell if my car has a walking crankshaft?[/SIZE]
A 'walking' crankshaft is a crankshaft that moves too much inside the engine. This is also known as excessive thrust bearing play. The movement is usually due to the crankshaft not fitting inside its bearings correctly. While not bad for the crankshaft, the movement can place excessive or uneven loads on the bearings, causing premature failures.
Many 2G owners have suffered from walking crankshafts. It appears that Mitsubishi built many 2G engines using defective crankshafts, which were machined out of specification and are thus capable of moving around too much inside the block. All 2G model years appear to be affected to some degree.
To fix this problem, Mitsubishi has designed several versions of matching crankshaft bearings. This allows the defective motor to retain the crankshaft, yet matches the bearings correctly so as to eliminate the excessive crankshaft movement. Matching the bearings in this manner is tricky and requires exact information about when the crankshaft was manufactured, which may be determined by color markings on the crankshaft itself. The 2G factory manual includes information on how to match crankshafts to bearings.
1G owners do not generally need to worry, as there are no chronic problems with crankwalk in per-1995 cars. However, it is possible for any engine to experience crankwalk if there is a problem with the crankshaft bearings. It has been reported that 'small rod' / 7-bolt flywheel motors (manufactured from later 1992 through 1994 on 1Gs) are more prone to crankwalk than 'big rod' / 6-bolt flywheel engines (manufactured from 1989 to early 1992). However, there can be no guarantees, since big block V8s and all other engines can also suffer from crankwalk.
It can be difficult to tell if a particular car is experiencing crankwalk. Symptoms are usually indirect and difficult to diagnose until major damage occurs.
Since the clutch places pressure on the crankshaft, many owners have reported clutch or shifting problems associated with the walking crank. Having the clutch 'stick' down on left-hand turns is often a telltale sign of crankwalk. Other symptoms include inconsistent engagement height, poor or rough engagement, difficulty shifting, ticking noises and varying pedal height or pressure. Another possibility is having the engine RPM decrease significantly when the clutch pedal is down.
Another problem with crankwalk is that the crankshaft may move so much as to literally tear up and destroy the 2G crankshaft angle sensor. This problem usually manifests itself as a ticking noise coming from the timing belt area, as the sensor is literally and slowly ground away by the crankshaft. Any such noise should be investigated right away to prevent serious problems.
Unfortunately, cranshaft angle sensor failure usually leads to a replacement sensor, rather than a replacement crankshaft, as mechanics fail to diagnose the underlying problem. 2G owners who have experienced premature failure of the crankshaft angle sensor should investigate the possibility of a walking crankshaft immediately.
For more information, read this post by Paul Estavez, which describes the crank walk problem in detail. Also read Road Race Engineering's archive of posts that contains all of the Talon Digest posts about the walking crankshaft problem. Those who appreciate that a picture is worth a thousand words will appreciate the Crank Walk Photo Archive. Although 2G DSM owners have been anxiously awaiting a recall or TSB on the crankwalk problem, there is none as yet. According to Paul's second post on the subject, there may never be a TSB, although some members of DSM Canada are pushing for one in this thread on their discussion board. As a result, it is doubly important that affected 2G owners get their bearings (or blocks, if necessary) replaced before their warranty expires. This might be difficult for owners of aftermarket clutches, as dealerships often claim the aftermarket pressure plates are the cause of the problem. "
This is reference to the DSMs specifically but it was all 7 bolt motors that had the issue.



BTW the motor in my car is from an RVR turbo lol

 

[SupremeMoFo]

Pfft better than a SubaPOO !!!

I'm a fan of both brands... seriously think an Outback would've been a much better car to live with.

 

[CLuTZ]

BTW the motor in my car is from an RVR turbo lol

I've only seen a handful of JDM motors walk, and this was after they were rebuilt.