North America Chat

[Wakaba]

Gotcha i picked up a cooler and thermostat. what combo of fasteners did you use to make that contraption? LOL i think ill do the same once i fit my UTcomp trip computer in the factory clock spot.

Depends on your temp probe dimensions. My Defi is a 1/8NPT with a long probe.

Glowshift M12x1.25 banjo to 1/8npt adapter

simple brass 1/8npt to 1/8npt short extension.

I cut the banjo adapter threads deeper to allow the extension to bottom out. Attached both and drilled the center bore out to make room for the OD of the probe. Then put it all together with gas-rated yellow t-tape. Also opened the banjo feed holes to increase flow rate.

 

[Wakaba]

I did a thing.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Nice. Black friday deals is the best time to get a link.

 

[Wakaba]

Nice. Black friday deals is the best time to get a link.

100% what I waited on. Now it shall sit on the shelf till May when the get comes out of storage.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

I just got mine up and running on a adaptive board last week. I suggest you do the IFS delete and flip the ECU tach switch when you install it.

 

[Wakaba]

I just got mine up and running on a adaptive board last week. I suggest you do the IFS delete and flip the ECU tach switch when you install it.

I’ll look into that.

Just the bypass harness and flip the toggle on the Adaptive board? I like it. Were there any issues getting the ECU up and running at all?

How is/was the provided map that came with your Adaptive board?

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Yeah cut the plug off the ifs. Join the 2 thick wires to power the coils and cap off the other 2.

I had a bit of drama with the AC clutch not working as it should but that i think was largely down to my car not having its original engine harness in it. For some reason the AC request was bus-barred across to the fuel pump relay so when the link would try engage the AC clutch it would run the fuel pump. Took me like 10 hours to diagnose and find the part in the loom so if you experience this send me a PM and ill talk you through how to remedy it.

The only ofher stuff that needed changing in the base map was as follows
- the idle control was all fucked up, would stall when cold and would idle at 2500rpm+ and hunt when hot but any tuner worth their salt will sort that out in 5 mins
-the fan control logic turns the fans off at given road speeds, this isnt strictly an issue but when we were tuning mine it did start getting hot when we were at low road speeds and high engine rpms. Bit of a fringe case but not something entirely unlikely to happen (towing a trailer / driving up a steep hill etc) so i removed the road speed part and the fan is purely driven off ECT


My car has a pair of TME ultra hi flow tuebis andb my 268 cams and cam gears dialed into 105 intake C/L and 115 exhaust C/L and being speed density tuned this will have changed the VE table a bit. The fuel map on the adaptive provided map was fairly rich but its good enough to drive the car gently on to your local tuner

Ive also repined a wire at the ecu end and wired flex fuel sensor into DI-1 (from memory i used the MAF Reset pin) so my configuration is a little different than most.

We got all the low load/driveability tuning done and when we started putting boost to it the stock coils couldn't keep up so im currently putting in some R8 coils and will go back and tune the rest of the map. Happy to share the pclx file when its done if you wish. But like i said if you don't have cams and cam.gears your car wil be a bit different

 

[Wakaba]

4:37 - anyone here?

 

[Maz]

One less legnum on the road my America bros. Lady Tboned me while i was sitting at an off ramp wiating for the light to turn green. Unlucky. I have some parts showing up from our buddy over in christchurch if anyone wants to buy em cheap. Drive safe everyone.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

One less legnum on the road my America bros. Lady Tboned me while i was sitting at an off ramp wiating for the light to turn green. Unlucky. I have some parts showing up from our buddy over in christchurch if anyone wants to buy em cheap. Drive safe everyone.

View attachment 66412

View attachment 66413

Dude noooo! Is it unfixable?

 

[Mattalot]

That's such a shame mate, maybe you will get another?

 

[Wakaba]

holy shit that sucks! Glad you are okay.

 

[Maz]

Yup I'm all good which is what I'm told matters hahaha. Was heading to the gym and waiting at a stop light to turn green when the lady tried taking a 90 degree turn at 50mph in a Honda pilot. Pretty fortunate that the steering wheel was on the right side of the car as I'm sure it helped tank a lot of the damage to me. I still gotta actually poke my head underneath the car and see what the engine bay looks like but I have a pretty good feeling there's going to be some meaty damage. Maybe its fixable I'm really hoping I can keep her on the road it was the perfect car for me.

 

[mezje]

Sorry to hear mate, looking at the pictures I think buying another example from Japan would be cheaper and easier than fixing it.

Echoing others, the important part is you are OK!

 

[UMSTunah]

Yeah cut the plug off the ifs. Join the 2 thick wires to power the coils and cap off the other 2.

I had a bit of drama with the AC clutch not working as it should but that i think was largely down to my car not having its original engine harness in it. For some reason the AC request was bus-barred across to the fuel pump relay so when the link would try engage the AC clutch it would run the fuel pump. Took me like 10 hours to diagnose and find the part in the loom so if you experience this send me a PM and ill talk you through how to remedy it.

The only ofher stuff that needed changing in the base map was as follows
- the idle control was all fucked up, would stall when cold and would idle at 2500rpm+ and hunt when hot but any tuner worth their salt will sort that out in 5 mins
-the fan control logic turns the fans off at given road speeds, this isnt strictly an issue but when we were tuning mine it did start getting hot when we were at low road speeds and high engine rpms. Bit of a fringe case but not something entirely unlikely to happen (towing a trailer / driving up a steep hill etc) so i removed the road speed part and the fan is purely driven off ECT


My car has a pair of TME ultra hi flow tuebis andb my 268 cams and cam gears dialed into 105 intake C/L and 115 exhaust C/L and being speed density tuned this will have changed the VE table a bit. The fuel map on the adaptive provided map was fairly rich but its good enough to drive the car gently on to your local tuner

Ive also repined a wire at the ecu end and wired flex fuel sensor into DI-1 (from memory i used the MAF Reset pin) so my configuration is a little different than most.

We got all the low load/driveability tuning done and when we started putting boost to it the stock coils couldn't keep up so im currently putting in some R8 coils and will go back and tune the rest of the map. Happy to share the pclx file when its done if you wish. But like i said if you don't have cams and cam.gears your car wil be a bit different

I did a pin assessment looks like an evo8 pnp would work fine with just a few pins moving around fwiw. I need to scope the 2 transmission pins and see if that auto messages are something I can replicate…

On that note anyone actually get a read from an auto trans?

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Evo 8 plug in is ~3000nzd
Evo 1 / early wrx / mx5 / honda plug ins are ~2100nzd

So even with buying the adaptive bottom board its still cheaper to use an early evo top board instead of buying a later evo ecu.. and you dont have to fuck around repinning anything

 

[Wakaba]

Only reason I went with the late Evo was to future proof for when I shit out the 6A and swap in an Evo drivetrain.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Only reason I went with the late Evo was to future proof for when I shit out the 6A and swap in an Evo drivetrain.

If you wanted to future proof it you should have done a wire in ecu with a patch harness to the VR4 loom. as the evo engine loom wont "plug in" to the VR4 body harness anyways. That way you can do a proper made to fit loom if you do go the 4G route

Id give you shit about not using the 6A again if you blow one up but the lack of availability in the states, i cant blame you

 

[Wakaba]

If you wanted to future proof it you should have done a wire in ecu with a patch harness to the VR4 loom. as the evo engine loom wont "plug in" to the VR4 body harness anyways. That way you can do a proper made to fit loom if you do go the 4G route

Id give you shit about not using the 6A again if you blow one up but the lack of availability in the states, i cant blame you

I've already got a complete Evo harness in a box, so it made a lot of sense to me at the time. Honestly, I'll likely lose interest in the notion of using the evo bottom board and it'll end up in the "whoops, oh well" pile.

I'd love to have a couple 6A's on the rack for when things go south, but yeah, being in the US it's pretty tough in this market. Stupid 25yr rule made it so all you AU/NZ and the Brits bought these cars up 10+ years ago, and have moved on. Now the US folks are picking through one of two car types out of Japan... the unicorns that have been loved and babied for decades, that comes at a cost, or the clapped out POSs that are being way over priced because MaD TyTe JaYdEeM insta clout y0. For the prices I can get a 6A to the shop I could get a 4G but have the aftermarket and tuner support all over the the place.

now.. If I could just get my buddy to ship my Evo X wheels to me, I could snap up some of the "dead of the winter buy 3 get the 4th for $1" tire sales going on.