North America Chat

Wakaba

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
New plate arrived today.

IMG_6666.jpeg


🤣🤣 gag gift from a friend randomly showed up today.
 

Wakaba

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
glad I didn’t pull the Legnum out of storage this week.

IMG_6856.jpeg
 

Wakaba

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
The difference in mentality is funny. I bought my VR4 for its AWD capability exclusively to drive it to the snow...

So did I! Then we got it here and found it was way too clean to slog out with salt and shit drivers during MN winters.


But then again, I’m the guy that stores a 4x4 pickup and awd car in the winter. 🤣
 
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Wakaba

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
Anyone in US interested in combining shipping on an order of downpipes (can we call them downpipes in the NA forum?!?) from RPW?

Thinking of getting into the group buy, but I'm not liking the $200 shipping.
 

mezje

1 AYC Bar
Moderator
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Maxim
Drive
1998 Galant VR4 Manual
Anyone in US interested in combining shipping on an order of downpipes (can we call them downpipes in the NA forum?!?) from RPW?

Thinking of getting into the group buy, but I'm not liking the $200 shipping.
Honestly mate, get some made locally. RPW welding is horrible and just generally a shitty company.
 

Wakaba

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
Honestly mate, get some made locally. RPW welding is horrible and just generally a shitty company.

Sadly the market went to shit while I’ve been out of the country, I was seriously tempted to pay stupid for the iida one on yahoo.jp when I got home.
 

Legnum in America

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
Chicago
First Name
Mike
Drive
1997 Mitsubishi Legnum VR4 COTY
2006 Mercedes E350 4matic
2022 Subaru Outback Onyx XT
1999 Honda Civic EX
Honestly mate, get some made locally. RPW welding is horrible and just generally a shitty company.
I have the v2 RPW pipe, Welds are solid. I did add a coat of primer and painted it black to help with the salts in our area. I heard the V1 were shit.
 

Wakaba

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
I have the v2 RPW pipe, Welds are solid. I did add a coat of primer and painted it black to help with the salts in our area. I heard the V1 were shit.

They salted yesterday for reasons.

Should have stayed where I was.

IMG_6931.jpeg
.
 

bambino

Idling at the Lights
Location
Colorado
First Name
Robert
Drive
1997 Mitsubishi Legnum ST-R
Man, for a minute here I thought I had the only Legnum in the US. This is so refreshing to see. I bought a '97 ST-R (not knowing about the VR-4) back in November with only 40k miles at the time. It's an auto but I didn't mind at the time because I planned to daily it. I live in Colorado and after having driven it for a few months now, here's what I've learned:
  1. Finding parts really sucks.
  2. I need more power. I love this car but it's so slow.
  3. 4 speed auto is absolutely abysmal for the Colorado mountains. The car doesn't have enough power to stay in gear when going up steep roads so it's either cruising or absolutely screaming in 2nd gear to get up lol. On top of that, I'm pretty sure the trans is going to shit out on me soon. It vibrates when I drive it long enough in a day, and it's starting to slip in 3rd gear.
  4. Roads here suck. Car came with Tein coilovers but I want to swap to something a little more robust. I can only adjust preload which helped a little with bottoming out at the expense of a flush stance.
I'm trying to decide if I want to just do a manual swap when my trans shits out...it won't address the lack of power. I'm torn between looking for a 6a13tt or a 4g63t for the availability of parts. Thoughts?
 

Wakaba

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
Man, for a minute here I thought I had the only Legnum in the US. This is so refreshing to see. I bought a '97 ST-R (not knowing about the VR-4) back in November with only 40k miles at the time. It's an auto but I didn't mind at the time because I planned to daily it. I live in Colorado and after having driven it for a few months now, here's what I've learned:
  1. Finding parts really sucks.
  2. I need more power. I love this car but it's so slow.
  3. 4 speed auto is absolutely abysmal for the Colorado mountains. The car doesn't have enough power to stay in gear when going up steep roads so it's either cruising or absolutely screaming in 2nd gear to get up lol. On top of that, I'm pretty sure the trans is going to shit out on me soon. It vibrates when I drive it long enough in a day, and it's starting to slip in 3rd gear.
  4. Roads here suck. Car came with Tein coilovers but I want to swap to something a little more robust. I can only adjust preload which helped a little with bottoming out at the expense of a flush stance.
I'm trying to decide if I want to just do a manual swap when my trans shits out...it won't address the lack of power. I'm torn between looking for a 6a13tt or a 4g63t for the availability of parts. Thoughts?

There’s a few of us about, MN here.

The parts issue isn’t the worst, there’s lots of parts-binning with the chassis. The boys in AU/NZ have been awesome helping get the US owners caught up on things. I had my first VR4 in 2007/08 in Japan, and now one in the states because 25yo. There’s a thread in this forum for NA parts compatibility. Some won’t ring true because you have the ST-R…. Bird lots cross over.

I can see zero issues swapping in an Evo 4-9 4G engine and trans, and a 4-6 transfer case and maybe rear diff to suit. Bonus, you have the aluminum subframe and the 4g would help balance the chassis. Being a non-vr4, I doubt anyone would be against you.

6A13TT is a lovely motor, but they are rare fish, especially in NA. If you really want the vr4 engine swap, I’d gladly sell the full 6A/5AT swap kit for $6500…. to fund a 4g swap in mine.

Which Tein do you have? Don’t have a third “lock ring” at the lower body?
1744905134580.png


If yes, you can adjust your lower body for ride height without messing with preload.


Anyway, Welcome!
 

bambino

Idling at the Lights
Location
Colorado
First Name
Robert
Drive
1997 Mitsubishi Legnum ST-R
There’s a few of us about, MN here.

The parts issue isn’t the worst, there’s lots of parts-binning with the chassis. The boys in AU/NZ have been awesome helping get the US owners caught up on things. I had my first VR4 in 2007/08 in Japan, and now one in the states because 25yo. There’s a thread in this forum for NA parts compatibility. Some won’t ring true because you have the ST-R…. Bird lots cross over.

I can see zero issues swapping in an Evo 4-9 4G engine and trans, and a 4-6 transfer case and maybe rear diff to suit. Bonus, you have the aluminum subframe and the 4g would help balance the chassis. Being a non-vr4, I doubt anyone would be against you.

6A13TT is a lovely motor, but they are rare fish, especially in NA. If you really want the vr4 engine swap, I’d gladly sell the full 6A/5AT swap kit for $6500…. to fund a 4g swap in mine.

Which Tein do you have? Don’t have a third “lock ring” at the lower body?


If yes, you can adjust your lower body for ride height without messing with preload.


Anyway, Welcome
I do not have that 3rd ring on my Tein's. I'm pretty sure I can only adjust preload on mine.

I'm still not decided on what swap I want to do but I will certainly keep this in mind!
 

6A13TT TYPE S

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Adam
Drive
1999 Legnum VR4 Type S
There’s a few of us about, MN here.

The parts issue isn’t the worst, there’s lots of parts-binning with the chassis. The boys in AU/NZ have been awesome helping get the US owners caught up on things. I had my first VR4 in 2007/08 in Japan, and now one in the states because 25yo. There’s a thread in this forum for NA parts compatibility. Some won’t ring true because you have the ST-R…. Bird lots cross over.

I can see zero issues swapping in an Evo 4-9 4G engine and trans, and a 4-6 transfer case and maybe rear diff to suit. Bonus, you have the aluminum subframe and the 4g would help balance the chassis. Being a non-vr4, I doubt anyone would be against you.

6A13TT is a lovely motor, but they are rare fish, especially in NA. If you really want the vr4 engine swap, I’d gladly sell the full 6A/5AT swap kit for $6500…. to fund a 4g swap in mine.

Which Tein do you have? Don’t have a third “lock ring” at the lower body?


If yes, you can adjust your lower body for ride height without messing with preload.


Anyway, Welcome!
Adjusting that "3rd ring" aka body adjustment is the incorrect way you adjust ride height. That body adjustment is for adjusting bump travel. you take the spring off entirely, and adjust the strut length so at full compression the bump stop is compressed before the tyre touches any of the body/wheel well. Once you have that set you then reiinstall the spring and set the ride height with the spring.

Adjusting the spring preload is the correct way to adjust ride height.

as bambino said more preload means higher ride height. The way to stop the car bottoming out and retain the lower ride height is to install stiffer springs
 

Wakaba

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
Adjusting that "3rd ring" aka body adjustment is the incorrect way you adjust ride height. That body adjustment is for adjusting bump travel. you take the spring off entirely, and adjust the strut length so at full compression the bump stop is compressed before the tyre touches any of the body/wheel well. Once you have that set you then reiinstall the spring and set the ride height with the spring.

Adjusting the spring preload is the correct way to adjust ride height.

as bambino said more preload means higher ride height. The way to stop the car bottoming out and retain the lower ride height is to install stiffer springs

👍
 
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