Power differences between Series 1 and 2 VR4s

Discussion in 'General Technical Discussion' started by Mike, Jul 13, 2007.

  1. Mike

    Mike Guest

    This topic was originally posted by kiwibstokes, and discussed at our old forum You can find the thread here.

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    I've been hunting around on the net looking for info on the differences power wise between the Pre face-lift and face-lift models, no where i have found say's there is major differences in the motors but i came accross these two sites tho, they have information on all the models by production month/year. It seems to me that the 96 models with an auto were 260hp but the manuals were 280hp and after that both the manuals and autos are 280hp???

    Have a look i'm intrested in know what other people get out of this info i would of thought the autos would produce less power because the motor has to run the auto box tourque convertor etc but i'm no mechanic


    http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/mitsubishi/legnum/
    http://www.cars-directory.net/specs/mitsubishi/legnum/

    Bryan
     
  2. bradc

    bradc 1 AYC Bar

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    Prefacelift Auto = 260hp (incl Super VR-4)
    Prefacelift Manual = 280hp

    Prefacelift Auto = 280hp
    Prefacelift Manual = 280hp
     
  3. Hotwire

    Hotwire 1 AYC Bar

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    OK I've been looking for an answer but can't find one.

    The pre-facelift had 260ps in auto, but was increased 280 in the facelift. Changing the ECU can net the extra 20hp, BUT has anyone actually done this? How hard is the facelift ECU to come by?

    Alternatively, was it simply a boost decrease for the auto? ie. aftermarket boost controller will regain lost power?

    Help!
     
  4. Well Mitch reckons the same but he looked up our vin no's on the CAPS database I think it was, and he said that both our supers were built on the same day in december 97 and both seem to have the facelift ecu in them?? I dont know whether that is because they are so close to 98 or because they are supers? You would have to ask him about that I know nothing....
     
  5. BuzzPuppy

    BuzzPuppy OZVR4 Ambassador Lifetime Member

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    Wondering the same thing with my Sooper. Hmm, mitchy hasn't got back to me with that one. Either that or pick up an EBC and gauge. There's a Skyline wreckers (Oakleigh Mechanical Repairs) two blocks from my house smack-bang in the middle of suburbia!
     
  6. mitchy

    mitchy Member

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    i havent looked into the ECU's again, just started a new job, but as far as me and paul (takumi) could see, it was just boost.

    his ran ~9psi stock, and mine was about ~6-7psi.

    just increase it to 12 like i did, and its much more fun. :D
     
  7. Hotwire

    Hotwire 1 AYC Bar

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    That's what I was wondering, is what the boost levels were. If its as simple as a turbo-tech controller set to 11 or 12psi, then that kills that argument against a pre-facelift ;)
     
  8. bradc

    bradc 1 AYC Bar

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    As far as we know it is just boost that makes the power. A few members in NZ have had my facelift ecu in their cars and have noted more power and better fuel economy, suggesting it isn't just boost that does it.

    The difference in power is small though, and upping the boost is the easiest way to fix it.
     
  9. Sydo

    Sydo Leaving Skid Marks

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    Yes - I've done it, and it does work.
    Facelift ECU's are very hard to come by, and simply not worth the cost to buy new. (I was quoted about $1300, plus import duty)

    Like Brad has said, fuel economy has improved by about 5-10% too.

    All in all - it's not worth it.
     
  10. bradc

    bradc 1 AYC Bar

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    unless you see one on trademe for next to nothing, an Apexi SAFC and a manual boost controller will do it all
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Jan 19, 2008
  11. SiliconAngel

    SiliconAngel 1 AYC Bar

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    No well if you're thinking about that kind of money, replace the ECU altogether and get it properly tuned for even greater power and better fuel economy :) $1300 for a STOCK ECU?? Are you INSANE?
     
  12. Sydo

    Sydo Leaving Skid Marks

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    haha.. hence why I went with a used unit. :)
     
  13. VR4Rocket

    VR4Rocket Leaving Skid Marks

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    Well I am going with the Manual Boost and SAFC2 to up the power - Dyno Day 2 here I come!
     
  14. Darryl

    Darryl Guest

    I picked up my legnum and was told that it was much faster than others in the lot and on the test drive of the one i purched and the other's there was a noticeable difference i throught was to do with the difference in year modle. A month or so later i had a boost guage fitted and to my suprise the boost was quite high 15 psi spiking to 17 on the shift (no good), no boost controller!! An hour or so checking the only thing i could find was that a hose had been changed with one that was much thicker than standard, playing with different size hoses at the cost of around $2 i now have 11psi with a spike of 2 psi on the shift. Fautless for 3 month of hard driving and no more hitting the boost cut which i was thinking was a faulity coil pack.
     
  15. bradc

    bradc 1 AYC Bar

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    Sounds like you need to crank the boost back up :)
     
  16. mookers

    mookers puri puri Administrator Moderator

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    Boost increase via a simple hose change? Is that really feasible?
     
  17. Scottie

    Scottie 1 AYC Bar

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    If the hose has a split in it, then it will work the same as a bleed valve.
     

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