Power Window problem (driver's side)

rooks

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Perth, WA
First Name
Andrew
Drive
2005 ST246 Caldina GT4
Picked up the VR4 today from Patricks autocare so yeah superduper excited. The car drives very well with plenty of power...straight home for a good washing then cut and polish wax!

didnt take long before a bit of bad luck however....

An hour ago as i test drove the car i made sure all windows were up by pulling each of the power window switches (old habits die hard)....when I pulled the switch for the driver's side window i heard mechanical whirling and suddenly the window dropped by 1/3 from its closed position. aw CRAP!
Stopped the car and tried to raise the driver side window.... i could hear the motor going but the window remains still.

Has anyone had experiences with this sort of issue with power windows?, quick Google search puts the issue with the power window cable as a possibility.

A little late and dark for me to open the door trim for a closer look so im writing this to ask for opinions on what the problem could be and if it is a power window cable can this be replaced with a generic brand?

If anyone has similar power windows issues in WA are there any workshops that would be familiar with the VR4?

Appreciate any advice....
 
This might help you to know what your up against
 

Attachments

  • Front Drivers Power Window.jpg
    Front Drivers Power Window.jpg
    61.7 KB · Views: 62
Mine rocks back & forth. Window either has to be all the way up or all the way down cos it won't stay in the track if it's partially open. Took the door apart but couldn't find cause. All bolts done up tight & everything looks like it should work properly. Probably just worn out I guess. Hasn't fallen out yet!! Touch wood.
 
Yep, I've had the same problem but on a different car.

They get problems with small plastic parts such as pulley wheels wearing out and breaking. The cables kink and get frayed too.

If something is broken you'll probably have to replace the whole regulator assembly as they tend to crap themselves nicely, especially if you stuff around trying to put the window up again after the initial failure. :bored:

It should be pretty straightforward but you will need a helper to line up and hold the window in the correct position while you bolt it back on. Once you take the inner door trim off, the regulator assembly and window will only be held in with a few bolts and can be slipped out via an access hole in the door.

Before you start, if you have tinted windows a good trick is to cover the inside of the window (the tint side) with Contact or similar easy to remove book covering plastic. This is because you can accidentally scratch your tint while you are fumbling about with tools and lifting the window out & in.
 
Thanks for the diagram and quick responses guys and Kat !!! I'll see what i can do to prop up the window in the meantime, will also watch out so the tint is also protected.
A mobil electrician is coming to fit an immobiliser sometime today, he can be my extra pair of hands! lol

Let you guys know how this gets on.
 
From experience, there it is usually one of two problems

- Window has come away from carrier
- Window regulator is stuffed

As you have said the glass is in its carrier, the regulator is the drama.

See the post above, it covers the points you need.

As I have said before, a bit of patience and care is all that's needed.
 
My old Telstar did that and crap its a bitch of a job to fix! Good luck Andrew, keep us posted.
 
If anyone has similar power windows issues in WA are there any workshops that would be familiar with the VR4?

Appreciate any advice....


Try Elfe Automotive in Bayswater or Phil (I think he is based in Midland?!?)
 
update!

Turned out the cable had indeed snapped, luckily the window was still in one piece. Photo of the cable wheel.

P1000404.jpg


Travelled 40km to source a power window regulator from the wreckers (Mitsubie
wreckers), not quite new but at least its not a 3-4 week wait from Amcap/Japan.
Manage to fit the regulator and motor after an hour of patient and careful fiddle inside the door shell.
Biggest challenge was getting the regulator slide to sit inside the window, a two player job for sure!
Found that by slowing moving the window down and pressing against it helps to fit the 'slide' regulator in.

P1000407-1.jpg


lesson learnt: 1) 2nd hand Parts for leggies and galants do exist in WA.
2) Get to know the inside of the door trims for that future 6inch speaker install :p

So window goes up and window goes down all happy.

Apologies for the crude pics. :p

All in all thanks for the support and advice for on this tread people!! (y)

PS: On the way to the wreckers the idle speed controller decided to die...sigh. another post another time! :rolleyes:
 
Glad to hear you got it all sorted. How much did the second hand regulator set you back and was it a shared part with any local models?
 
$220,Regulator and motor set came off a leggie, not sure what series but the part number was exact. Took me 20 mins and 2 staffs before I explained that mine was not the hj model!!

Amcap/japan quoted $153 for the regulator minus motor and 3/4 week wait!
 
Top Bottom