Probably a stupid question, but you never know till you ask

Aussie_Wolf93

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
QLD
First Name
Brodie
Drive
'93 Mazda B2600
I have been reading up on the AYC and how Mitsubishi has developed the AWC (and S-AWC) from it
from what I've read, the AWC utilises AYC, ACD (Active Centre Diff), ASC (Stability Control) and ABS

sounds stupid, but its purely curiosity... I was wondering if its at all possible to install the AWC system onto a VR-4 Galant

Please no comments saying anything insulting or sarcasm, I'm into cars and mechanics but only have basic knowledge, and as they say, if you don't know, then ask
 

Aussie_Wolf93

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
QLD
First Name
Brodie
Drive
'93 Mazda B2600
@Kenneth was doing an ACD conversion, I'm not sure how far he got with it.
cool, I was asking cause Galant's already has AYC (if you get the right one) and ABS, but not sure about ASC, already figured you'd need to install ACD though

but the computer and sensors would need changing to suit though wouldn't it?
figured if thats all it took, then maybe it would be possible to install the AWC system that was developed for the Evo VII's onward, not sure about the Evo X's S-AWC though
 

Aussie_Wolf93

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
QLD
First Name
Brodie
Drive
'93 Mazda B2600
ok, cause when I get the money, was thinking of getting a '98 Galant
Hell, even gonna be keeping my eye out for a Super VR-4 variant
I was asking cause I was planning (if it turned out to be possible) to mod it onto my Galant

read a thread about a guy who was racing an Evo X with his old VR-4, and how the AWC system put the X around corners that should have put it into the wall
I love the VR-4 look, but wondered if possible to combine that kind of performance with it (not that the VR-4's don't already have good handling from what I've seen)
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
My honest opinion would just be to buy a 5 speed VR4 with AYC, and spend the money on coilovers/brakes/tyres/bushes and anything else that will help handling. Will be a lot cheaper and easier, and in all honesty, probably be more useful in the end. AWC or Super AWC doesn't just turn any car into a world beater, and doesn't just slot into any car and transform it into a time attack ready grip car.
I hope this doesn't come off as sarcastic, I am offering an honest opinion, I have a VR4 and and an Evo 7 so I know how the Systems both feel and work :)
 

TME_Steve

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
NSW
First Name
Steve
Drive
2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
I would do pretty much what mr legnum said but I would use the sayc diff. combine that with camber kits, coilovers, swaybars, r spec tyres, bigger wheels and if you're not happy after that, then do the acd. an evo x chassis is a hell of a lot stiffer than a vr4 chassis both in suspension and the monocoque and runs bigger high end tyres out of the box.

my vr4 when it was modified easily out gripped an evo x running the same spec r tyres too. turn in was similar mid corner and exit grip was way better.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
If your intent is to have a purpose track car though, I would probably just suggest buying an Evo, depending on your budget.
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
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CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
I must be getting old. I look at the proposed mods and think of all the extra maintenance and stuff that can go wrong!
 

Kenneth

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Kenneth
Drive
1999 Galant VR-4
cool, I was asking cause Galant's already has AYC (if you get the right one) and ABS, but not sure about ASC, already figured you'd need to install ACD though

but the computer and sensors would need changing to suit though wouldn't it?
figured if thats all it took, then maybe it would be possible to install the AWC system that was developed for the Evo VII's onward, not sure about the Evo X's S-AWC though

The computer needs changing and you will also need a new pump. There are 2 variations, cars with ACD + AYC and cars with ACD only. Rally cars use ACD only. You will have to get the AYC/ACD ecu and pump that suits your setup.
Other than that, you will need to convert any signal differences using the service manuals to work out where there are different voltages etc
You will also need to run an extra sensor line for the ACD pressure sensor.

After that you need to look at the transfer case itself. You have a couple of options, but only one realistic one in my opinion. You could build a custom front subframe and then change the drive shaft length to suit the ACD transfer case or you can do what I did and take the ACD transfer case and use the clutch pack and put it onto the standard transfer case body. You will need to change your ring gear because it is a different ratio on the 7+. This means you either need to take a couple of mm off the inside of the standard gear, or use the standard front diff assembly (though why you would when you have a helical LSD in the ACD case, goodness knows) and rear drive drum. This also requires welding additional material onto the main casing and drilling/tapping a new hole. I would also recommend doing the 8-10mm bolt mod at the same time.

Right now I have all the stuff done, just not got it in the car. I am getting loads of grip with an open centre and the tarmac gear 65/35 split ratio centre so have left it off until I get a modified centre diff which is rear drive only, then I plan to put the ACD in and use it as part time 4WD, using the ACD to bring the front in only as needed.
 

Aussie_Wolf93

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
QLD
First Name
Brodie
Drive
'93 Mazda B2600
I understand the guys saying it won't suddenly turn it into a "world beater" and all that
but I wasn't thinking of that, I was thinking that if it was able to keep the car in corners at speeds that would put it through the wall
then it would help with some areas I occasionally would be driving, some winding ranges, and some VERY winding roads down near my fathers
he has a 4x4 with some great handling and grip and it sometimes slips, but very fun to go along, as well as a few other reasons

oh well, back to thinking up new ideas :p
 

Aussie_Wolf93

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
QLD
First Name
Brodie
Drive
'93 Mazda B2600
also how low do these things sit?
especially the Super variant?
every pic I've seen these things sit low without the owners making changes
and here in queensland.... well everybody knows how corrupt alot of road piggies are here when it comes to defecting cars
 

Lasiorhinus

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
Darwin
First Name
Stephen
Drive
White FL Legnum
If you're issued a defect notice for a defect that does not exist, such as for being too low when in fact your vehicle is not too low, then your local vehicle inspection station will remove the defect.
 

Kenneth

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Kenneth
Drive
1999 Galant VR-4
I understand the guys saying it won't suddenly turn it into a "world beater" and all that
but I wasn't thinking of that, I was thinking that if it was able to keep the car in corners at speeds that would put it through the wall
then it would help with some areas I occasionally would be driving, some winding ranges, and some VERY winding roads down near my fathers
he has a 4x4 with some great handling and grip and it sometimes slips, but very fun to go along, as well as a few other reasons

oh well, back to thinking up new ideas :p

With the 65/35 rear/front torque split, front helical LSD, rear plate LSD and no viscous coupler I have so much grip that I can turn out of a T intersection (turning right, across 1 lane, in the dry of course) at full throttle in 1st (note I do have the Evo 2.785 evo 1st gear ratio which helps, and good tyres) and get no loss of traction. Boost is at about 20psi (though I doubt it got there in 1st)

So, while ACD might be good, if you are getting to the point that ACD is what keeps you on the road, then you shouldn't be driving on a public road.
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
On top of what Kenneth has said, ACD/AYC/SAWC/ASC/TSC/ABS you name it, may help an awesome driver push his car a little further, but it won't stop the average bloke binning his ride into a wall/railing/other car.
You can do all you want to it, it will still have a limit set by it's driver that will determine it's capabilities on the road or track. As said, do all the usual Coilovers/Tyres/Bushes/Braces/Bars/Brakes upgrades, Keep the AYC, and jst drive within your limits and you shouldn't hit anything.
Spend $5000 putting SAWC into the VR4 and go out and feed it to it flat stick through the twisties thiniking you will be ok, and you just might end up walking home, if you can still walk,

I really hope I don't sound like I am being a prick mate, I'm really not. The VR4's are awesome on the road, just do the usual upgrades for ride and handling and you will be fine.
 

Aussie_Wolf93

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
QLD
First Name
Brodie
Drive
'93 Mazda B2600
On top of what Kenneth has said, ACD/AYC/SAWC/ASC/TSC/ABS you name it, may help an awesome driver push his car a little further, but it won't stop the average bloke binning his ride into a wall/railing/other car.
You can do all you want to it, it will still have a limit set by it's driver that will determine it's capabilities on the road or track. As said, do all the usual Coilovers/Tyres/Bushes/Braces/Bars/Brakes upgrades, Keep the AYC, and jst drive within your limits and you shouldn't hit anything.
Spend $5000 putting SAWC into the VR4 and go out and feed it to it flat stick through the twisties thiniking you will be ok, and you just might end up walking home, if you can still walk,

I really hope I don't sound like I am being a prick mate, I'm really not. The VR4's are awesome on the road, just do the usual upgrades for ride and handling and you will be fine.
yea I get what your saying there, not stupid enough to go flat out through twisties, but when I have the opportunity I like to try and push my car a lil bit, get a feel for it, and try further

its also like when some converted their SSS N14 pulsar from FWD to AWD, people told them they were idiots and all that, but it was what they wanted (they didn't like FWD, and didn't like the back end of the GTI-R) and they got something different, cool and unique out of it
just want to get that unique thing going is all.... as I said, in writing it sounds stupid

and Stephen, I know that I can fight it and all that if its a bull defect
but that's why I'm asking if these things sit too low or not, so I can have it meet compliance when I get it
a guys gotta keep the road nazi's off their ass :p
 

fieldy107

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Chris
Drive
Galant VR4
VR4s actually sit quite high in stock form... it has been called 4wd spec by many
 

Aussie_Wolf93

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
QLD
First Name
Brodie
Drive
'93 Mazda B2600
VR4s actually sit quite high in stock form... it has been called 4wd spec by many
cool, thanks
just couldn't seem to find ride height specs anywhere is all
wanted to know so I could plan the finances for any adjustments needed for RWC ya know

thanks for all the input too fellas, saves me from trying to do something stupid later on
 

Wakaba

1 AYC Bar
Premium Member
Location
US
First Name
Abe
Drive
96 Legnum VR4
Have 10, 15 and, 264 written on the back of my block. Any thoughts of what they are?

1726368756055.jpeg
 
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