Esoteric

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Ryan
Drive
2001 Galant VR-4
OK, well an update on the progress:

Went for a longish drive this morning to get oil up to temperature before having it drained and replaced. Then went and dropped off car and EBC Green Stuff at MMC. In retrospect I should probably have bought the Red Stuff as the little flyer the lady at hi Tech gave me said that Green Stuff were for cars up to 200BHP.

Ah well - I'm sure they'll do fine. MMC just called me now and said that the discs were too thin and could not be machined (had kind of expected this after 11 years on the road). Luckily they have a set of front discs in stock and I'll have them replaced.

I said to the guy that on a trip to Hamilton once, I had to hit the brakes from about 160km/h and the car pulled to the left - I wasn't sure if that was a L/R brake bias setting or something. He said that that was probably due to the left front caliper not releasing properly after application of the brake pedal. They had some difficulty getting the left caliper off and noted that the disc exhibited more wear than the other one.

It's all being sorted now though.
 

bradc

1 AYC Bar
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Brad
Drive
Facelift Manual 400hp VR-4 Legnum
Sounds like they are looking after you.

How much did they charge you for the front discs?
 

Esoteric

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Ryan
Drive
2001 Galant VR-4
Yes they are looking after me quite nicely. I believe he quoted me $225 for a set of fronts.
 

VR-04-TT

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Paul
Drive
2005 Liberty 3.0R Spec B
Let us know how the green stuff pads go, as I've been recommended them too.
 

snickells

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
Australia
First Name
Anon
Drive
Car
Are you getting your callipers rebuilt? Seeing as your getting new discs and all, it might be worth asking about.
 

Esoteric

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Ryan
Drive
2001 Galant VR-4
Rebuilt? didn't know that was an option actually. They lubricated the calipers so that the slide bolts move more easily.

they machined the rear discs

Here are some pictures of the new set:

Front right with new discs and pads



Left rear with new pads... those calipers have seen better days



So far the pads are doing well, just as i was leaving MMC i turned onto a street and proceeded straight before taking the left slip lane which is a yield intersection for me... didn't see this ute and slammed on the brakes doing about 40km/h ( precisely what i was trying to avoid doing with new pads)

Suffice to say that Elaine's magazine she was reading landed up on the floor and I felt 1 x ABS judder. The difference is remarkable.

I've been taking it easy, applying the brakes gently etc which according to the instructions I need to do for 500 miles (800kms)?

they do make a slight squealing noise, but is to be expected as they have this special Brake In surface coating.
 

SiliconAngel

1 AYC Bar
Location
Perth, WA
First Name
SA, Trevor
Drive
'99 Legnum VR4 Black MT
If you brake heavily on new pads you can glaze them, which will cause squeaking for the life of the pad... This can be rectified by taking the pad out and roughing it up with a rasp, but I wouldn't do this unless the pad had been squealing a lot for ages...
 

VR-04-TT

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Paul
Drive
2005 Liberty 3.0R Spec B
I've read so many different ways to bed in pads and rotors. I think it must come down to the type of pad and rotor combination as all these different methods have come from people in the know so I find it really confusing lol.

With my magna when I had the kevlar pads and slotted rotors I bedded(is that even a word? lol) them by doing a few hard brakes then a few gentle ones till the pads were nice and hot. Then it was perfect for the rest of its life, never one squeak. Again, I guess it must depend on the pad.
 

Esoteric

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Ryan
Drive
2001 Galant VR-4
If you brake heavily on new pads you can glaze them, which will cause squeaking for the life of the pad... This can be rectified by taking the pad out and roughing it up with a rasp, but I wouldn't do this unless the pad had been squealing a lot for ages...

Yes, that's right however, the instructions contained within the box explicitly state not to do that because of the "Brake In" coating on them (kind of a black looking layer). They reckon to just leave them alone for the first 500 miles and to avoid heavy braking. Thereafter they should be A-OK :)

damnit... I've just repeated myself *bash bash*
 
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