SA Really close to buying one of these

Tyme

Idling at the Lights
Location
Adelaide
First Name
Tim
Drive
99 VR4 Galant (Manual, FL)
Hi everyone,

Skip to the bold down the bottom is you wanna.

So on my hunt for a new boosty boi car - I sold my motorbike, and was ready to experience the lovely world of floaty driver feel, unexpected moments of under-steering and enough power to demonstrate that I'm totally not over compensating; I was ready to buy an AWD Turbo car.

I looked at the obvious options: WRX with no HG, Evo's & overpriced parts and other JayDeEm things. I had been really sold on a Hawkeye WRX (have only driven a BugEye though) for the last 3-4 months, until I came across these things and their cute 3 bars of yellow on the dash.

I drove one finally the other day which had a few little problems:
  • Body condition was bad. Little dents and paint fade everywhere.
  • Spoiler was removed, replaced with expanding foam, and $2 black spray can fun.
  • Diff mounts felt done (or AYC pump).
  • Huge smells of petrol driving, felt like was missing power; possible turbo leak cause of the gas smell.
  • I thought the lifters were fucked, but the ticking was in time with the RPM, so was probably knocking a bit.
  • Steering looked worse for wear - complete with split dust boots.
  • Front right CV joint make some fun noises and not getting power through it very well.
  • Economy tyres, where I swear the tread pattern was running backwards.
  • Actually had Tanabe coils... I didn't realise anyone ever bought these...
  • Evo 6/7? Brakes front and rear... with warped rotors on the front, and faded pads...
  • Super floaty feel through the steering wheel.
  • But y'kno, had nice interior.
So after that I was thinking, well yeah; this thing handled pretty shit, my race car driving friend even got it to spin out in a roundabout (but it over-steered interestingly).

Now that you've read that crap up there, I only really have one and a bit question(s):

How does a fully functioning VR4 Galant actually handle?
and,​
After investing money into some good tyres (i.e. RE003s) and some good suspension (i.e. ShockWorks or MCA), how well do they handle?

Is it comparable to a WRX, Evo, Liberty, MPS6 or Skyline?

I get they're a bigger car than a WRX or Evo, but they seem to hold close dimensions to Skylines, and are smaller than Libs or MPS6's.

Thanks for reading all my crap, mate.
 

Jakevr4

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Queensland
First Name
Jake
Drive
99 Galant vr4 type s (auto),10 Grand Cherokee Overland(auto),91 Rodeo (350 chev th350auto).
A transverse iron blocked twin turbo v6 infront of the front wheels is never going to feel balanced no matter how much you spend on suspension unfortunately, also the guards arent real generous for big rubber.
These things when they are working properly can hang with cars they shouldn't be able to on a twisty road, however they never feel happy about doing it (aka undertyred heavy car with 300+kgs infront of the the front axle centre line).
 

Tyme

Idling at the Lights
Location
Adelaide
First Name
Tim
Drive
99 VR4 Galant (Manual, FL)
A transverse iron blocked twin turbo v6 infront of the front wheels is never going to feel balanced no matter how much you spend on suspension unfortunately, also the guards arent real generous for big rubber.
These things when they are working properly can hang with cars they shouldn't be able to on a twisty road, however they never feel happy about doing it (aka undertyred heavy car with 300+kgs infront of the the front axle centre line).

Ah, I didn't realise they're iron blocks, and damn you're right, looks like that first cylinder bank sits just shyly in front of the axle.

I think I'll still go drive one that's in good condition on Monday, and see how they feel. This car will mostly be daily-ed, with hill-climbs done with mates at least once/twice a week - I'm not looking for a track monster, but might take the car I get to Mallala (SA's local track) once or twice in its life.

These cars seem pretty capable on paper, and not having to pay the crazy high WRX or Evo tax would be good, haha.
 

Gav

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Sydney
First Name
Gav
Drive
Galant
By the sounds of it. Steer clear of that car. Get something that’s on good condition otherwise it’s going to cost you 3x as much,
 

Gav

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Sydney
First Name
Gav
Drive
Galant
Now it does depend what you want out of the car. These take a bit of money to get good pier out of them, they also need regular maintenance to keep them reliable.

In the same year wrx’s your looking at the gc8’s. Which can be fairly cheap these days. And probably easier to get parts for.

I’ve got a 98 galant that’s been converted to manual puts out Around 179 at the wheels. Fun to drive and a great sleeper but have spent a fair bit to get it to that power figure.
 

Tyme

Idling at the Lights
Location
Adelaide
First Name
Tim
Drive
99 VR4 Galant (Manual, FL)
By the sounds of it. Steer clear of that car. Get something that’s on good condition otherwise it’s going to cost you 3x as much,

No disagreement there! The owner just hid the problems with it in the ad very well; figured I may as well drive it as I was there!

Now it does depend what you want out of the car. These take a bit of money to get good pier out of them, they also need regular maintenance to keep them reliable.

In the same year wrx’s your looking at the gc8’s. Which can be fairly cheap these days. And probably easier to get parts for.

See we have a really good local specialist for VR4's here (Driven Motorsports), so parts, servicing and maintenance isn't too much of an issue - I also used to be a mechanic long ago; but seeing that engine bay makes me shudder a bit.

GC8's actually wouldn't be bad to look at; I hear good things about them! Only problems are the misuses hates them, and they also required a bit of maintenance. It's been a while, but I remember maintenance parts for boxer engines being pretty pricey (like belt kits and such). I think they're also getting pretty pricey for low km's non-thrashed around ones (upwards of $9-10k, which is Gen2 WRX price range almost).

I wrote it above, but what I'm looking for out of the car is: Will mostly be daily-ed, with hill-climbs done with mates at least once/twice a week - I'm not looking for a track monster, but might take the car I get to Mallala (SA's local track) once or twice in its life.

I’ve got a 98 galant that’s been converted to manual puts out Around 179 at the wheels. Fun to drive and a great sleeper but have spent a fair bit to get it to that power figure.

Weird how varied the information is for these! Some place people swear they're cheap and easy to get power out of, others people say they've spent quite a bit to get them there. Very nice power you have!
 

Gav

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Sydney
First Name
Gav
Drive
Galant
Definitely not a cheap car to get power out of.
Also maintenance for these can be costly especially the 100k services and also replacing lca’s every 100k.

Do I live my car definitely
Would I do it again. Probably noT

Also autos don’t handle too much power.
 

Gav

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Sydney
First Name
Gav
Drive
Galant
Most common upgrades
Front mount $500
Hard pipes $400+
Radiator $300
Fuel loop $100
Fuel pump $150
New vk22 plugs $100 ish
3 port $100-150
Brembos $1000
Tune around $900
Then your looking at a good 3 inch exhaust from the dumps back.

There will be more that I’ve forgotten
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
I'll chip in and say that you don't need hard pipes. I've hit 230kw at the wheels with stock intake pipes. You also don't need a new radiator, although the original will degrade and split eventually so it's going to need to be replaced at some point.

Brembos aren't necessary either, you can put decent pads on the stock brakes and they are rather good. Having said that I have Brembos.

I find I can keep up with a Focus RS in the twisties but neither driver was "at the limit", which would be stupid on public roads anyway. I could not stay with a 2017 BMW M4 on faster corners, I just didn't have anywhere near enough mechanical grip.

For reference my brother in law works for Motor magazine and has access to some ridiculous cars on occasion, so I get some interesting comparisons.
 

GLen20

Barring Up
Premium Member
Location
South Australia
First Name
Glenn
Drive
2002 Type S Galant, Ducati Streetfighter 848, 1971 2 Door LC Torana (in pieces)
G'day Tim. I've had my Galant for about 6 years now and I still can't think of another car I'd rather own. I drive it daily to work across town and I've done all the power mods short of e85 or turbo upgrades.
I think good suspension is the key to getting the most out of these cars.
They are a middle sized sedan/wagon, with a longer wheelbase that most and a little bit on the heavier side.
Having said that, they have a great, clever drivetrain and more grip that I can reasonably use on a public road.
The biggest issue with big power is the small turbo's. They just don't flow enough for big numbers, but they spool quickly and work more in a torque arrangement, most people who've driven mine say it's more like a V8 than a RPM screamer.

I guess what I'm trying to say is their aim is not so much an outright performance rig, but more of a very rapid, comfortable sports saloon/wagon that handles much much better than they should for their size and weight. All whilst being comfortable and smooth (joys of a 6 cylinder).

When I first got mine and took it up to Lobethal, I was into it, giving it about 7 tenths.
I remember looking out the side window and thinking "if I have an accident right now, it's going to be BIG"
They're not so much outright fast in a straight line, but fuck they're rapid getting from Point A to B.
Ps- They look pretty mean as well :)

FB_IMG_1488207473719.jpg
 

Tyme

Idling at the Lights
Location
Adelaide
First Name
Tim
Drive
99 VR4 Galant (Manual, FL)
Most common upgrades
Front mount $500
Hard pipes $400+
Radiator $300
Fuel loop $100
Fuel pump $150
New vk22 plugs $100 ish
3 port $100-150
Brembos $1000
Tune around $900
Then your looking at a good 3 inch exhaust from the dumps back.

There will be more that I’ve forgotten

Honestly... That's seems super standard, even kinda cheap (if you're buying this all brand new) for car... I was expecting far more, especially when compared to other uncommon cars.

I'll chip in and say that you don't need hard pipes. I've hit 230kw at the wheels with stock intake pipes. You also don't need a new radiator, although the original will degrade and split eventually so it's going to need to be replaced at some point.

Brembos aren't necessary either, you can put decent pads on the stock brakes and they are rather good. Having said that I have Brembos.

I find I can keep up with a Focus RS in the twisties but neither driver was "at the limit", which would be stupid on public roads anyway. I could not stay with a 2017 BMW M4 on faster corners, I just didn't have anywhere near enough mechanical grip.

For reference my brother in law works for Motor magazine and has access to some ridiculous cars on occasion, so I get some interesting comparisons.

Damn that's some power, I'm not even sure I'd be looking to get that much power out of it, but do you mind me asking what you've done to the car? Sounds awesome!

Impressed you're keeping up with a RS, those things are pretty ridiculous - but good point about not being at the limit; outside of racing maybe not much point comparing their absolute top performance.
 

Tyme

Idling at the Lights
Location
Adelaide
First Name
Tim
Drive
99 VR4 Galant (Manual, FL)
G'day Tim. I've had my Galant for about 6 years now and I still can't think of another car I'd rather own. I drive it daily to work across town and I've done all the power mods short of e85 or turbo upgrades.
I think good suspension is the key to getting the most out of these cars.
They are a middle sized sedan/wagon, with a longer wheelbase that most and a little bit on the heavier side.
Having said that, they have a great, clever drivetrain and more grip that I can reasonably use on a public road.
The biggest issue with big power is the small turbo's. They just don't flow enough for big numbers, but they spool quickly and work more in a torque arrangement, most people who've driven mine say it's more like a V8 than a RPM screamer.

I guess what I'm trying to say is their aim is not so much an outright performance rig, but more of a very rapid, comfortable sports saloon/wagon that handles much much better than they should for their size and weight. All whilst being comfortable and smooth (joys of a 6 cylinder).

When I first got mine and took it up to Lobethal, I was into it, giving it about 7 tenths.
I remember looking out the side window and thinking "if I have an accident right now, it's going to be BIG"
They're not so much outright fast in a straight line, but fuck they're rapid getting from Point A to B.
Ps- They look pretty mean as well :)


That all sounds great! I actually finally drove a good one today - a 1999 model, FaceLift, V-Spec (had no AYC), in a colour I can only describe as dark grey and someone through blue and purple into... then at night it was just dark grey... anyway...

I was super impressed, it drove awesome and held grip really well. The power was strange, but I definitely liked it - it was like as soon as it hit 3000rpm the power was on and would jerk the car forward, but it would kinda hit 9lbs (had a gauge) at 4500rpm-ish and not really have any top end at all. Not the biggest issue right now, but would be good to dial the boost up and give it a tune, to try get more top-end out of it, in the future.

We did some quick corners in it, and it was super impressive! Stuck to roundabouts, tight corners and long sweeping corners well; even when boosting like hell out of a few(performed the best when just pure powering out of one actually). I didn't even notice it didn't have an AYC till we got back from the drive.

Aside from that, car had just had a major service, was in absolute pristine condition inside and out (brought my detailing friend and we was drooling over the paint), and was a Jap import. It also had some KYB shocks and springs, blow-off valve and exhaust.

There are only two things stopping me from putting money down on it right now:
  • No AYC (does this make a huge difference? Is it more worthwhile just getting a 1.5 way?).
  • Not in Black; was really hoping to get one in black.
I miss the stints to Lobethal, hopefully the hill runs in this car will be good!
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
Welcome to the forum, Tim.
That first car you mentioned sounds horrible. I'm glad you got a chance to drive a good one after that.

Oh also that colour sounds like Trigger Mauve. It's a common colour for these cars. Dark purple in the sunlight, dark grey at night/overcast days.

I know you haven't bought a VR-4 yet, but you still might find this useful:


Unclepaulie's infamous welcome template, version 15.7w

Stuff you need to know:
- Forum rules

Stuff that could save your life:
Do not buy aftermarket suspension parts, especially Lower Control Arms (LCAs)

- This is what happens if you don't replace your control arms
- Recall check using your chassis number

Useful threads:
- INDEX - Look here FIRST
- Guide to Galant & Legnum common problems
- The most important thread on the forum. MUST READ
- Oils and Fluids
- Staged Upgrades
- Legnum/Galant Production Info
- Posting photos, especially in the Classifieds

Posting new threads is restricted by default, for full access become a Premium Member:
- Upgrade to Premium Membership benefits

Please read before selling anything on this site:
- Rules for posting in the classifieds
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
Also -

If you liked how it handled without AYC, then you don't need AYC in my opinion.

AYC is nifty and neato and whizz bang, but it also requires maintenance. There are 2 different fluids in the diff, a pump, and electronics which are all going to pushing 15-20 years old now (ok maybe not the fluids themselves, one hopes).

Flushing and bleeding the AYC diff requires some extra electronics and/or a helper (there are guides here on how to do it).
 

Tyme

Idling at the Lights
Location
Adelaide
First Name
Tim
Drive
99 VR4 Galant (Manual, FL)
Welcome to the forum, Tim.
That first car you mentioned sounds horrible. I'm glad you got a chance to drive a good one after that.

Oh also that colour sounds like Trigger Mauve. It's a common colour for these cars. Dark purple in the sunlight, dark grey at night/overcast days.

I know you haven't bought a VR-4 yet, but you still might find this useful:


Unclepaulie's infamous welcome template, version 15.7w

Stuff you need to know:
- Forum rules

Stuff that could save your life:
Do not buy aftermarket suspension parts, especially Lower Control Arms (LCAs)

- This is what happens if you don't replace your control arms
- Recall check using your chassis number

Useful threads:
- INDEX - Look here FIRST
- Guide to Galant & Legnum common problems
- The most important thread on the forum. MUST READ
- Oils and Fluids
- Staged Upgrades
- Legnum/Galant Production Info
- Posting photos, especially in the Classifieds

Posting new threads is restricted by default, for full access become a Premium Member:
- Upgrade to Premium Membership benefits

Please read before selling anything on this site:
- Rules for posting in the classifieds

Googling it, you're completely right, it was Trigger Mauve! Thanks for that!

Thanks for that post; reading through some of those articles, I did learn a few good things about about the Type-V FaceLift Galants.
  • Brembo brakes from an Evolution 5-9 will bolt straight.
  • These [Type-V FaceLift Galants] were the lightest of all VR-4’s, with the manual weighing in at 1460kg.
  • Stock facelifts tend to run slightly higher boost.
Also -

If you liked how it handled without AYC, then you don't need AYC in my opinion.

AYC is nifty and neato and whizz bang, but it also requires maintenance. There are 2 different fluids in the diff, a pump, and electronics which are all going to pushing 15-20 years old now (ok maybe not the fluids themselves, one hopes).

Flushing and bleeding the AYC diff requires some extra electronics and/or a helper (there are guides here on how to do it).

You know, I think you're right; there's probably some better modern LSD diffs out there, as compared to the 15-20 year old tech - at least in a reliability/availability and servicing sense.

I think I might buy this one! The fact that they're lighter and I think look better (compared to PFL) is swaying me. Hopefully in the future I can get a mechanical 1.5 way or something LSD, as a nice-to-have, and maybe a High-Vis dash too, haha.

The fact it's not black will always bother me a little, but I really doubt I'll find one this clean for quite some time if I skip out on it.
 

Kaldek

2 AYC Bars
Premium Member
Location
Melbourne
First Name
Ed
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4 Manual, Ford Territory family runabout, BMW K1300R.
do you mind me asking what you've done to the car? Sounds awesome!

Right now the car is having a forged engine and strengthened driveline installed, so it will be up around 290kw at the wheels on E85 when done. Prior to that though, 230kw at the wheels basically meant hi-flowed TD03 turbos. They're a 1mm larger 9-blade turbin wheel and a custom designed billet compressor wheel about 5mm larger than stock, along with bigger shaft and stronger thrust plate. Those turbos also have 14psi wastegates fitted to them.

To support that power also meant:
- 3" exhaust from dumps back
- Bigger injectors
- Bigger intercooler
- VK22 plugs (Coil on Plug kit also recommended)
- 3-port wastegate actuator
- Stronger Blow Off Valve (BOV)

You can't get past 200kw at the wheels on 98RON without turbo upgrades. @TME_Steve has a selection of upgrades available, including full TD04 internals inside the TD03 housings.
 

Ugly

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
Kiama
First Name
Martin
Drive
2000 Legnum VR4
I think all the Legnums in Australia have been through Steve's at some point while mine's been there...
 

benny__S

Hesitantly Boosting
Lifetime Member
Location
Western Australia
First Name
Ben
Drive
Legnum VR4
You can't get past 200kw at the wheels on 98RON without turbo upgrades. [USER=2623 said:
@TME_Steve[/USER] has a selection of upgrades available, including full TD04 internals inside the TD03 housings.

I made approx 230kW atw with stock turbos on 98Ron . I do have a link ECU though.
 
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