SA Really close to buying one of these

[Gav]

I made approx 230kW atw with stock turbos on 98Ron . I do have a link ECU though.

On a roller dyno? Or a hub?

 

[benny__S]

On a roller dyno? Or a hub?

Hub dyno

 

[Gav]

Hub dyno

That explains the high figure then

 

[Tyme]

So I should probably re-name this post.

Because...

(Sorry about the bad picture quality, iPhone camera is dying...)

Couldn't be more happy about this purchase - loving every minute of it, driving it home my mate and I had an Audi follow us and play, saw a black Legnum and we both did the universal 'aaayy' hand throwin, even had a Supra give me a huge grin and thumbs up when he saw me boost and heard the BOV (which is waaay too loud and might need to go...).

She has 140,000km on the odo, just had a major service, was already fully inspected, paint and interior are in actual priiistinne condition, is a JDM import with purple plates and has a few other things like, exhaust, BOV (piped and hidden deep under the front grill), intake, pod filter, etc.

Thanks for everyone's help! These few post really helped me decide on this one!

After a month or so of getting used to it though, I really got to look into how to give it some top-end though, aha!

 

[GLen20]

Welcome aboard mate!
Dig around and also ask questions and we'll be able to help you out with that lack of top end

 

[Tyme]

Thanks man, excited to be here!

Well then my friend, after sways and tyres are sorted (already has some really nice feeling and planted KYB shocks and springs) - how exactly do I get more top end? I see people throwing on boost controllers, and putting on a bit more PSI here, is that good way to go?

 

[naughtika]

congrats on becoming a VR4 owner

glad that you found the one you wanted...

as for KYB shocks, they are good for everyday driving but not the best if you want to use it for track use. They do have KYB AGX but i believe they are discontinued now for the 7G/8G models.

as for boost controller, your call on this, more owners end up removing them as most of the ecu's are tune-able and you can get more top end for this. mine's doing 17psi and tapers down to 14psi at the top end of the rpm range

btw, what would you like the thread title changed to?

 

[Tyme]

congrats on becoming a VR4 owner

glad that you found the one you wanted...

as for KYB shocks, they are good for everyday driving but not the best if you want to use it for track use. They do have KYB AGX but i believe they are discontinued now for the 7G/8G models.

as for boost controller, your call on this, more owners end up removing them as most of the ecu's are tune-able and you can get more top end for this. mine's doing 17psi and tapers down to 14psi at the top end of the rpm range

btw, what would you like the thread title changed to?

Fair enough! Definitely haven't these through the paces yet, so I wouldn't know.

I would prefer to get a proper tune, the car smells like it's running a bit rich (possible because of the BOV). Are you running 17psi on just the stock turbos? What have you done to get the car there? If the 99 VSpec ECU is tunable, I'll definitely go that way!

Ahah, that was just a bad joke. Cause the title is: 'Really close to buying one of these', and I.. y'know, bought one lol.

 

[GLen20]

Tim, best advice for a newly minted VR-4 owner is to read the forum! It's so good, you'll love it and know so much about these cars.
Like for example, if upgrading sway bars, the sway bar mounts on the rear are weak...

When I first got my car, it was running similar to yours. But the boost control solenoid had failed and it was running on wastegate pressure only, bout 6-7psi. Stock FL boost pressure is about 9.
So I fucked off the solenoid, got a MBC and dialed it up to 11-12, about the most for a untuned car. (It'll be running rich).
Then the mods, zorst, front pipes, FMIC, fuel pump, fuel loop. etc, ready for a tune.
Then I had it tuned. Boost about 14-15 psi before it tapers off (a little bit of spike when first planting it).
Better economy & power. Heard that stock turbo's only really efficient to this number. Any higher and they're heating...

Then Steve from TME visited and did a round of tunes.
Steve's (and others) method is to have a 3 port boost control solenoid (replacing any MBC etc.) driven by the ECU, so it is a closed loop system. ECU reads everything + boost so can control it to a setpoint.
Much better tune, smoother, similar power. You can feel the microchips doing their shit controlling things. Lower boost when engine cold, boost reduction on knock detection. Like a high power factory tune.

As with most motors, you got to get them breathing. That should give you more top end, but don't expect to be smashing the limiter with these tiny tiny turbo's!
Oh, with that VTA BOV, you'll be dumping fuel in without the air to go with it. We all mostly run a EVO metal BOV.

Hahaha, enjoy mate.

 

[Gav]

And best advice is become a paid member so you can access all the info. It will save you a lot in the long run

 

[Cocko]

Welcome Tim, congratulations on the purchase bud. I have a PFL Trigger Mauve Legnum myself and like you would prefer a different colour (will be painting it in the near future).
I previously had an Evo 4g63t powered rig before this and whilst the 4g63t was ultimately faster than the Leggie, around town and day to day the Leggie would smash it because of torque everywhere. And that is why I bought one. On a roll race the Leggie will pull a few lengths on my old car (my work colleague owns it now) and then I button off and claim a win. Plus, it's torque that slingshots you out of the corner. ..
Have fun with it matey, you chose well.

 

[naughtika]

I do recall replacing my I/C when I first got the car, and that alone made it feel more alive, then I added the HKS SSQV BOV. that was more for ghey factor but it held better than the oe BOV as it leaks past 9psi. I think when I did this, I already had the MBC and pushed it to 14psi and occasional Boost Cut whenever there's full load (5 people) in the car and/or when it's cold outside...

Fun days. will get my car back to its glory when Im back in Brissy longer than 2 weeks at a time

 

[Parko]

I was reading through this seeing where you were heading, fingers crossed and hoping you didn't buy the COTY edition legnum that's been for sale for ages now here in Adelaide (it's f*cking totally f*ucked).

Lots of destroyed galants and Legnums here in Adelaide.

On the bright side, welcome to the family. Everyone in the Galant/Legnum family is super helpful and usually willing to tell you what you need to know.

Buy yourself either a yearly or life time membership here, you will need it.

Also, there is an SA VR4 8th Gen owners page on Fb which is great for meeting up and getting local parts.

I would also recommend joining the International VR4 and Bryan Shit Posting Society page on Fb in how not to rice out your galant like a Jordanian goat shagger.

 

[Kaldek]

Hub dyno

As @Gav said, dyno power figures from highest reading to lowest reading (for the same car and identical conditions) goes:

• Engine dyno
• Hub dyno
• Chassis/roller dyno

It is always critical that when power figures are quoted it's made clear what type of dyno was used, and whether the dyno was calibrated. When this is left out, it just starts post storms where everyone starts accusing each other of lies.

I was once on a particular motorbike forum where one of the members said he gets 65mpg on the highway on his bike. To which there was FIFTY followup posts before somebody asked him if he, perhaps, lived in Canada? And he did, where they use Imperial gallons rather than US gallons. Imperial gallons are 1.3 times the size of US gallons.

So yeah, fifty posts of either A) accusing the OP of lying or B) asking what fuel he uses or C) what aftermarket parts he has on his bike and how they too could reach this magical 65mpg. Sigh.

 

[Tyme]

Tim, best advice for a newly minted VR-4 owner is to read the forum! It's so good, you'll love it and know so much about these cars.
Like for example, if upgrading sway bars, the sway bar mounts on the rear are weak...

When I first got my car, it was running similar to yours. But the boost control solenoid had failed and it was running on wastegate pressure only, bout 6-7psi. Stock FL boost pressure is about 9.
So I fucked off the solenoid, got a MBC and dialed it up to 11-12, about the most for a untuned car. (It'll be running rich).
Then the mods, zorst, front pipes, FMIC, fuel pump, fuel loop. etc, ready for a tune.
Then I had it tuned. Boost about 14-15 psi before it tapers off (a little bit of spike when first planting it).
Better economy & power. Heard that stock turbo's only really efficient to this number. Any higher and they're heating...

Then Steve from TME visited and did a round of tunes.
Steve's (and others) method is to have a 3 port boost control solenoid (replacing any MBC etc.) driven by the ECU, so it is a closed loop system. ECU reads everything + boost so can control it to a setpoint.
Much better tune, smoother, similar power. You can feel the microchips doing their shit controlling things. Lower boost when engine cold, boost reduction on knock detection. Like a high power factory tune.

As with most motors, you got to get them breathing. That should give you more top end, but don't expect to be smashing the limiter with these tiny tiny turbo's!
Oh, with that VTA BOV, you'll be dumping fuel in without the air to go with it. We all mostly run a EVO metal BOV.

Hahaha, enjoy mate.

Sorry about the late replies - just finished exams, and was trying to be focused!

On that note, I have been reading the forums a ton; really enjoying learning about these cars and the history they've had over the last few years.

In that case I'll definitely be doing things right! The car already has a good bunch of goodies - including full intake, exhaust, hidden pipe with BOV and others I can't think of right now. So I'll get a fuel pump, fuel loop, 3 port, maybe a FMIC and whatever else I need to try get it to around that 200kw mark - not really looking for much more passed that. But it is in my interest to get it tuned, especially with all these smalls mods that have been put on with no tune.

I've been reading a ton on TME_Steve! A shame he's a bit far away. I'll try give him a call soon as see what we can work out - seems like he's the guy to get a tune from (and they other parts I'll need). Only people I know in Adelaide who know Galants, is Jon and his team at Driven; but from memory they don't have a Dyno.

 

[Tyme]

As @Gav said, dyno power figures from highest reading to lowest reading (for the same car and identical conditions) goes:

• Engine dyno
• Hub dyno
• Chassis/roller dyno

It is always critical that when power figures are quoted it's made clear what type of dyno was used, and whether the dyno was calibrated. When this is left out, it just starts post storms where everyone starts accusing each other of lies.

I was once on a particular motorbike forum where one of the members said he gets 65mpg on the highway on his bike. To which there was FIFTY followup posts before somebody asked him if he, perhaps, lived in Canada? And he did, where they use Imperial gallons rather than US gallons. Imperial gallons are 1.3 times the size of US gallons.

So yeah, fifty posts of either A) accusing the OP of lying or B) asking what fuel he uses or C) what aftermarket parts he has on his bike and how they too could reach this magical 65mpg. Sigh.

I thought your name sounded familiar. I've been reading all through your UTCOMP installation guide/journey, as well as the videos you had along with it.

I've really wanted to get one of these installed in the last 3 or so cars I've had, but never got around to it - but with your guides and the fact this Galant has the worst fuel gauge, I've already started getting the bits together so I can have everything by Christmas. Running the wires through seems like the only real annoying bit...

Also noticed in that thread you said your a consultant for an IT firm. Going for a cybersec consulting interview in a few days, hopefully if I can get that I'll be able to send as much as you have on the Galant, haha!

Thanks for all those guides by the way, will hopefully make the installation a bit better.