Rear diff is out- Is there anything I should do while it's out?!

Discussion in 'General Technical Discussion' started by drifter_x, Sep 22, 2007.

  1. drifter_x

    drifter_x Guest

    Hey guys,

    Just having some of the underbody corrosion fixed up for compliance and the exhaust, tailshaft, fuel tank and rear diff have been dropped to get into all the nooks and crannys.

    Can anyone think of any work I should be doing while this is all out?

    It took nearly all day to do (mainly because many bolts had surface rust and were hard to undo..)

    Thought about changing the diff oil, but read that servicing AYC diffs should only be done by the pros..
    Is the AYC controlled by the gizmo in the very back right corner of the Legnum? (circled) Where the hydraulic lines run behind that cover?

    Putting it all back together tomorrow or Monday at the latest if I need to get any parts, suggestions would be most welcome!

    Hoist.jpg
     
  2. anthony

    anthony Leaving Skid Marks

    Joined:
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    Location:
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    tony
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    would defiantly get the oil changed as this should be done every 4500 miles
     
  3. jmo

    jmo Guest

    Really? that often, that is handy to know, I don't see why you should have to do anything then get rid of the rust, just about every one eles car won't have had the rear end dropped out
     
  4. Kieran

    Kieran Guest

    Rust protection is vital, glad to see that's first on the list. They will rot quickly, Jap-Spec rust protection is poor on the 'Cold Area' cars and nigh-on nonexistent on the 'Warm area' cars!!

    The AYC diff isn't as full of black magic as the dealer network would have you believe. Three oils, and if you know what to do, you don't need a MUT for any of them!!

    I have a PDF of the AYC service manual from the Lancer EVO 5/6 (In English!!) that shows the procedure for changing all three. I tried to upload but there's a 19K pdf limit and the file is 753kb. Can this be 'stretched' at all?

    Other things.... Check the condition of the shocks - They'll look fine on the car but get them off and you might find that they don't return when you compress them - and you don't always get a leak giving the game away.

    Oh - The lower rear arm with the balljoint on the hub end is the rear toe control arm. You can adjust the toe in/out by loosening and turning the bolt where it mounts to the subframe - I mention this as it's a good idea to get a 4 wheel alignment done if you've been buggering about with the rear subframe.

    As Tony mentions - Best advice is a full and thorough service. The happiest UK owners are those that treat the car like it's never seen a spanner in it's life when they first get it and give it 'the works'. Admittedly, particularly on higher grade cars this is a bit overkill but a few hundred extra to get it all nailed when you first get the car is far better than hoping/praying it's all okay!

    Oh, and blimey, you guys have to jump through hoops to get an import on the road! I thought the UK was bad!!:eek::eek:
     
  5. SiliconAngel

    SiliconAngel 1 AYC Bar

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    SA, Trevor
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    Hey Kieran, can you send that to me and I'll host it? Hell, send me everything you have and I'll stick it all up somewhere anyone who wants it can get a copy :) PM me to discuss if you're interested
     

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