Staggered offsets?

[bradc]

225/45 and 255/40 will be ok with those rim widths

 

[Guest]

You cant run different width rims!

Needs to be the same width at all corners but offset can be different.

But if your a Type V you can run different widths?

 

[bradc]

Still needs to be very close in rolling radius

 

[Guest]

Still needs to be very close in rolling radius

Agreed, rolling diameter needs to been very similar but width of tyre can very.

 

[SLY-031]

255 on a 9 is wak.

Get wheels with the same width, ~-10mm on the rear the keep them even

And as said a million times, you dont need plastic stick on 'flares' to run a 9 +35/+38

 

[ygoslo]

And as said a million times, you dont need plastic stick on 'flares' to run a 9 +35/+38

I don't think it is a debate you're ever going to win Joel! I'm with you though. The stick on things don't give any more clearance anyway. If your wheels hit the guards without stick ons they will hit your guards with stick ons as well. The guard is still in the same place, it just has plastic stuck on the outside of it.

 

[SiliconAngel]

True, but the difference is the overall width of the vehicle - the flares add an inch or so, giving you greater flexibility in width and offset. In order to get the same width without the 'stupid plastic flares' you'd need a massive guard roll...

It would look tough, though

 

[Guest]

255 on a 9 is wak.

Get wheels with the same width, ~-10mm on the rear the keep them even

And as said a million times, you dont need plastic stick on 'flares' to run a 9 +35/+38

my 8 +35 only sits in the rear guard due to camber, and the front sticks out, so you have no chance of a 9" fitting INSIDE the guards.

 

[SLY-031]

True, but the difference is the overall width of the vehicle - the flares add an inch or so, giving you greater flexibility in width and offset. In order to get the same width without the 'stupid plastic flares' you'd need a massive guard roll...

It would look tough, though

The only way the "flares" give you greater flexibility of width and offset, is if your car stays at it's factory monster truck height. Once it is lowered, you dont gain any extra clearance of space as the tyres will hit on bumps. Which is why you roll guards.

my 8 +35 only sits in the rear guard due to camber, and the front sticks out, so you have no chance of a 9" fitting INSIDE the guards.

My 9 +38 sit easily inside the rear guard too.

The front wheels hangs outside the guard by ~5mm. With a roll and very minor flare job, they would sit inward.

If I had the plastic "flares" then I could not run my car at it's current height with these wheels, nor could I roll the guards to get more clearance. Which makes those plastic guards a waste of time.

*puts on flame suit*

 

[bradc]

Yeah they are a waste of time, but they look awesome

 

[Guest]

The only way the "flares" give you greater flexibility of width and offset, is if your car stays at it's factory monster truck height. Once it is lowered, you dont gain any extra clearance of space as the tyres will hit on bumps. Which is why you roll guards.



My 9 +38 sit easily inside the rear guard too.

The front wheels hangs outside the guard by ~5mm. With a roll and very minor flare job, they would sit inward.

If I had the plastic "flares" then I could not run my car at it's current height with these wheels, nor could I roll the guards to get more clearance. Which makes those plastic guards a waste of time.

*puts on flame suit*

something isnt right there.. a 18x9 +38 will sit 10mm further out than a 18x8 +35.

there is not 10mm of clearance on my rear, and the front of mine sticks out about 5mm too..

to be honest, i think you might have 18x8 +38, as it just doesnt add up.

 

[bradc]

He is running 225 tyres though, maybe he is talking about the top of the tyre

 

[Guest]

he's running 235/40R18's like me isn't he?

i just find it odd that a 17x8 +38 (http://ozvr4.com/forums/showpost.php?p=56344&postcount=568) and my 18x8 +35 have pretty much the same outside wheel position, yet a 18x9 +38 seems to sit in the same spot, even though it should sit 10mm further out than mine/13mm out more than the 17x8 + 38.

 

[SiliconAngel]

If I had the plastic "flares" then I could not run my car at it's current height with these wheels, nor could I roll the guards to get more clearance.

Why exactly couldn't you roll the guards? If you can roll the standard guards, you can just remove the flares, roll the guards and then put them back on again...

 

[Guest]

how do the flares attach?

i think he's implying that the flares will only allow you to have wider rims if you have a decent tyre/guard clearance (or some stiff as fcuk coilovers so the tyre doesnt hit the flare/guard) whereas if you want the tyre IN the guard, they wont allow you to use a wider rim, as the inside of the guard doesnt move out.

 

[Guest]

why would you even want to put on a bolt on flare? that would make them look like a bloody torana...

 

[SiliconAngel]

Flares attach with a series (six, I think) of plastic plugs. They won't come off by just pulling, though - you need to close each of their four teeth and pop them through from the inside.

But yes, I understand that if you lower the car and want the wheels actually inside the guard, then no of course the flares do nothing. But its a pretty good compromise to get the look of flared guards, otherwise mitsi would have had to redesign the wheel arches just for the Series 2 Type S... Hmm, maybe not such a bad idea!

 

[SLY-031]

he's running 235/40R18's like me isn't he?

i just find it odd that a 17x8 +38 (http://ozvr4.com/forums/showpost.php?p=56344&postcount=568) and my 18x8 +35 have pretty much the same outside wheel position, yet a 18x9 +38 seems to sit in the same spot, even though it should sit 10mm further out than mine/13mm out more than the 17x8 + 38.

My car is lower than that, and so the wheels have a lot more camber, yet my fronts sit about 5-10mm further out than that.

See the pic and post below...

spot the difference! nice fitment joel.

[TAKEN FROM TEIN's FOR VR-4's THREAD]unfortunately my kit sits smack bang on 100mm at that height, and the rear tyres foul on the rear guards.

i'm not 100% sure joel, as far as i know, they are 18x8 about +30, but if yours are 18x9 +38, that means mine should sit 5mm further in, so i'm not sure!

they are definately only 8" wide though, they didnt come any bigger than 18x8

So assuming your wheels are 8 +30 and mine are 9 +38, mine should sit 5mm further out. Which is very much possible that they do. The ground my car is on in that photo is sloping, and that was before I had let the coilovers settle. Also my car is minorly lower, though that won't make much difference.

I had a 245 on one wheel as a trial, had it been an 8" then it would have been ballooned like hell, but it was straight up and down.

Flares attach with a series (six, I think) of plastic plugs. They won't come off by just pulling, though - you need to close each of their four teeth and pop them through from the inside.

But yes, I understand that if you lower the car and want the wheels actually inside the guard, then no of course the flares do nothing. But its a pretty good compromise to get the look of flared guards, otherwise mitsi would have had to redesign the wheel arches just for the Series 2 Type S... Hmm, maybe not such a bad idea!

My point is as pointed out here. The "flares" connect underneith the guard, disallowing them to be replaced once the lip is crushed by rolling. Admittedly, I am only speculating as to how they are attached, but that seems most logical. Maybe a small application of silicon along the guard edge for help.

 

[SLY-031]

why would you even want to put on a bolt on flare? that would make them look like a bloody torana...

You missed the point of this conversation.

Talking about factory option flares, not 50mm overfender flares.

 

[SiliconAngel]

My point is as pointed out here. The "flares" connect underneith the guard, disallowing them to be replaced once the lip is crushed by rolling. Admittedly, I am only speculating as to how they are attached, but that seems most logical. Maybe a small application of silicon along the guard edge for help.

No, they connect THROUGH the guard - there's a series of holes through the side, they don't attach underneath at all. You could roll them and still connect the flares quite happily