Stumped! Car won't shift! Urgent help needed!

[DaBo$$]

Hey all.
Took my inner passenger side cv joint out and the bearings were shot.
Being located overseas parts are rare, just wondering what are the part numbers that can interchange for inner cv joints ok the 8th gen vr4, pre-face lift.

Urgent help needed!!!!!!!!
From the quote the cv joints were the wrong ones.
So I put back in the old cv joint and transmission fluid that drained out.
Now the car will not shift out of gear one in automatic mode but in tiptronic it shifts fine. I NEED SOME INSIGHT AS TO WHAT THIS PROBLEM COULD BE PLEASE??????
Car was driving fine before I tried to replace old worn cv.

 

[BCX]

How much fluid came out and how much fluid have you put back in?

The dipstick mark needs to be checked with the engine running.
I don't have an automatic, but I assume the dipstick will have a High/Low mark for both hot and cold.
Basically need to run through gears P-> R -> N -> D and back to N, leaving a few seconds between shifting. then check the dipstick. This is to bleed the hydraulic lines within the circuits.

Is the new fluid the correct spec fluid? Mitsubishi boxes are fussy with fluid.
Needs to be Mitsubishi SP-III ATF, or equiv.

Most multivehicle fluids will meet SP-III, but I cant give you a recommendation as I have a manual box.

 

[mookers]

Hey Matt

The forum is generally quiet enough that you don't need to scream and shout in your thread titles to get people's attention.

 

[DaBo$$]

Hey Matt

The forum is generally quiet enough that you don't need to scream and shout in your thread titles to get people's attention.

Apologies!!! Was trying to get as much attention as I could. My only ride and work was in a few hours, coupled with having bought the wrong part and now another issue that wasn't present before. Fear and frustration!!!!!!!

 

[DaBo$$]

How much fluid came out and how much fluid have you put back in?

The dipstick mark needs to be checked with the engine running.
I don't have an automatic, but I assume the dipstick will have a High/Low mark for both hot and cold.
Basically need to run through gears P-> R -> N -> D and back to N, leaving a few seconds between shifting. then check the dipstick. This is to bleed the hydraulic lines within the circuits.

Is the new fluid the correct spec fluid? Mitsubishi boxes are fussy with fluid.
Needs to be Mitsubishi SP-III ATF, or equiv.

Most multivehicle fluids will meet SP-III, but I cant give you a recommendation as I have a manual box.

The same fluid that came out I caught in a container and put back in. Fluid was recently changed, about 6 months ago. Will check level and go through sequence as you suggested. If that fails will drain fluid and replace.


Quick question, What do you think is the issue as it was fine before trying to change cv joint and the fluid leaked out? Also being able to shift in tiptronic tells that the transmission is fine or no?

 

[BCX]

My knowledge of automatic transmissions is limited but there are different hydraulic circuits that are used when in you select a gear (ie 2 or L) than drive. Not sure of the specifics of the triptronic 5spd.

Do the lights in the cluster to show what gear work and N is not blinking?

 

[DaBo$$]

My knowledge of automatic transmissions is limited but there are different hydraulic circuits that are used when in you select a gear (ie 2 or L) than drive. Not sure of the specifics of the triptronic 5spd.

Do the lights in the cluster to show what gear work and N is not blinking?

Yes. Everything works fine in tiptronic. Just when in D, automatic mode it doesn't shift out of gear 1. N light is not blinking.

 

[BCX]

Does R work?

If could also try disconnecting battery which would reset the TCU.

 

[DaBo$$]

Does R work?

If could also try disconnecting battery which would reset the TCU.

Yes. Goes into reverse and reverses fine.
Just that when in D it stays in gear 1.

 

[Gt_Galant]

Okay
When you say “one gear” sounds like limp mode.

Does it feel “one gear” like a third gear ?

When you put it in “D” what green light is it on on the cluster ?

Also does yours car have traction controls with the automatic ? And if so if you switch the traction control on/off does it turn off/on or just stays on or off.

Hope that makes sense.

 

[DaBo$$]

Okay
When you say “one gear” sounds like limp mode.

Does it feel “one gear” like a third gear ?

When you put it in “D” what green light is it on on the cluster ?

Also does yours car have traction controls with the automatic ? And if so if you switch the traction control on/off does it turn off/on or just stays on or off.

Hope that makes sense.

Good day.
By the speedometer you can see all the gears you can select and also all 5 forward gears for when you are I tiptronic. When D is selected the green light is on D and the gear light is on 1. Usually it goes through the gears in auto mode as you drive, now it doesn't it stays in gear 1.
Also traction control never worked. The tcl light blinks at startup and I can press the button to stop it blinking and the tcl remains lit and off.

 

[DaBo$$]

Update.....
Decided to drain the transmission fluid again as I had a suspicion it was overfilled. Got about 2 gallons from the drain on the pan, this is without removing oil cooler line and starting car as I skipped that step.
Drained the transmission fluid and used the same fluid I drained to refill transmission. Filled to the cold mark and Went through the change atf fluid process before driving and when I went on the road it shifted in auto mode.
Decided to give it a full throttle hot to see if it changed and it did but was only enough room to go from 1st to 2nd through my corner, parked the car and from I parked running knew it had returned to the stuck in gear state as the rom raised and when going through the gears with the brakes depressed it shifts hard, like it is ready to launch when going into drive.
Checked the dipstick it showed the fluid level was not even to the cold mark. Topped it off until it reach right above cold level and let it run as I went the the gears with brakes depressed, but it reminded stuck in gear 1 in auto mode and didn't automatically shift as it did before.

 

[DaBo$$]

Update.......
Drove to work the next day after draining and refilling the transmission fluid, went through the gear cycling before I left and when I got on the road in automatic mode the car shifted as normal.
That was only short lived though cause in about 400m after a gear down to 1 in order to come out of a corner it shifted to 2 and then 3 but when it reached 3 it got stuck and the light started blinking in between 2 and 3 and slowing down it downshift to 1 hard and basically remained there.
I had to put into tiptronic mode to drive from then on and I noticed when in tip it drives fine but the automatic downshift when it gets to one shifts hard.
Checked fluid and the level is above hot when warm it is to the tip off the dipstick, right in the groove before it turns to metal.
Is this too much fluid? Does the transmission sound like it's broken?

Going to get some fluid and a new filter, drain the transmission and replace the basically new fluid and try to get the level spot on.

Can a cv joint cause this type of issue to the transmission?

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Have you bothered to check the diagnostic codes?

 

[Tony_T]

I may be barking up the wrong tree, but surely if it shifts fine when using the tiptronic function that means the transmission is fine. It sounds to me that something is sending a signal to the transmission controller to say that something is wrong elsewhere. As the poster above has asked, the codes if any will likely tell you some very useful information. Did you by any chance unplug anything and forget to plug it back in? It's so easy to do things like that!

 

[DaBo$$]

Have you bothered to check the diagnostic codes?

Yes. All good with transmission codes. 72 or 71 with the check engine light and the ayc and tcl and traction codes I didn't bother with because I know those systems aren't working correctly.

I may be barking up the wrong tree, but surely if it shifts fine when using the tiptronic function that means the transmission is fine. It sounds to me that something is sending a signal to the transmission controller to say that something is wrong elsewhere. As the poster above has asked, the codes if any will likely tell you some very useful information. Did you by any chance unplug anything and forget to plug it back in? It's so easy to do things like that!

I can recheck but as far as I can tell everything is plugged in fine. Only removed the left side cv axle and put it right back after seeing that the part bought wouldn't fit.
Wasn't even close to the transmission plug on top in the engine bay.
I don't think tcl or the ayc have anything to do with shifting and those systems with the error codes have been there for at least a year and a half and car drove fine with the ayc disable and with the current error codes it has.
Problem only started after the removal and reinstall of the cv axle.

 

[BCX]

Matt, im still not clear/you havent been clear if you've got the fluid to the right level. (You talk about dropping the fluid and refilling etc).

Initially you need to use the cold mark, but if the engine and trans are hot, then use the hot mark.

Hot fill line is really what you want to be going by for your final fluid level. Cold is a good indicator to get you ballpark.

In all cases, you need to be checking the fluid while the car is running and in neutral after running through all gears, leaving in each gear for a few seconds, wtih foot on the brake.

Once you stop the engine, the dipstick will appear over filled.

As you've said, the only thing that has changed is fluid level, as you removed the CV.

Incorrect fluid level will cause abnormal pressures, which will cause shift problems.

Also the fluid is clean (bright red) and not burnt (no smell)?

If you can confirm that the level is correct at hot, then can move on from that in terms of diagnosis.

 

[BCX]

Also, the transmission is 'learning' (this is the INVECS system Mitsubishi use in their marketing)

The shift patterns are one fundamental items that the TCU can adjust for depending on a number of parameters.

Disconnecting the battery will clear any learnt parameters and go back to map/data based shift patterns.

The factory manual talks about using the MUT tool to disable INVECS functions to diagnose shift pattern displacement.

In my experience with plenty of Magna 5spds, the shift quality will be poor after battery disconnect, and there is a procedure to relearn. Will look when i get home.

 

[DaBo$$]

Matt, im still not clear/you havent been clear if you've got the fluid to the right level. (You talk about dropping the fluid and refilling etc).

Was going to but funds slowed that process down. Did drop the fluid and had to reuse old fluid which is only about 5 months old, still bright red.
Engine off, fluid cold the mark is above the hot line, so I still feel the fluid level is too much.

Initially you need to use the cold mark, but if the engine and trans are hot, then use the hot mark.

Hot fill line is really what you want to be going by for your final fluid level. Cold is a good indicator to get you ballpark.

In all cases, you need to be checking the fluid while the car is running and in neutral after running through all gears, leaving in each gear for a few seconds, wtih foot on the brake.

Once you stop the engine, the dipstick will appear over filled.

Hmmmmm, maybe a reason it appeared overfilled. I checked a few times after warm but with engine stopped.
Will do a complete and thorough check to confirm level.

Also, the transmission is 'learning' (this is the INVECS system Mitsubishi use in their marketing)

The shift patterns are one fundamental items that the TCU can adjust for depending on a number of parameters.

Disconnecting the battery will clear any learnt parameters and go back to map/data based shift patterns.

The factory manual talks about using the MUT tool to disable INVECS functions to diagnose shift pattern displacement.

In my experience with plenty of Magna 5spds, the shift quality will be poor after battery disconnect, and there is a procedure to relearn. Will look when i get home.

No MUT tool anywhere over here so disabling the INVECS is a no go. Will check fluid level, if it is wrong correct it and go through entire refill transmission process.
Hopefully that will fix issue.

 

[Baba Galant]

The auto trans oil level can only be done when hot and running in neutral. Cold or off is incorrect. Ensure the car is flat, apply the handbrake leave.in Neutral, any other way is incorrect.