TI: fiberglass and carbon fiber doors,guards,boot lids

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As the description mentions I'm checking interests if anyone would be down for such parts
bootlids-galant
Doors-both cars
guards

I know there's a CF VIZ trunk available in Switzerland for round €699 but have not found any fiberglass options.

What would the interest be like in these items
id estimate a fg bootlid or door would set you back round $450 each and that same price for a set of fg guards.

Now with the guards I'll be making them with the FL flare molded in to it if there's more interest in that over stock.
all parts will replicate factory items and bolt up to and with your oem parts
 
I make them wrapped in carbon fiber,all abcd pillared
 
Yes basically the glass guards will be 15-20 mm wider and have full clearance for travel too..
Mick when you say bonnet what do you mean?
A fiberglass bonnet or?
 
No fl flares or any vents or other bullshit though
 
I like this guy ^^ he know what he wants.

But i agree, no tacky add ons.
 
Yeah Q, either fibre or carbon....but a decent design (not just evo style) and at a decent price would be good. The only readily available options as far as I know are Topstage ones or those ones from that company in Honkers.
 
Gotta love you guys.. You know what you want and not afraid of saying so.. Lol

Ok bonnets you guys know iv made my enforcer one wich was made some 3 -5 years ago and still hsv not produced any yet lol.
Otherwise what sort of shapes or vents you thinking of?
i onl have the square style like on my blue whale and then the top stage shitty style wich I hate and don't offer anymore as they're shit..

As for widened guards, there's two options.. Fl flares molded to guards like on my blue whale ,but, but ,but... Nested of having the join line we simply smooth it out so it all looks flush..
or we slice the guards and widen the steel, bog,prep, mold...

Let me know...

Guage pods, are hard.. You want flush wich I agree but then 3 is a no fitter..
question then.. What do you think of digital gauges? As then I can help achieve this as I'm working on this ATM for the ute
Meanin no shitty round gauges.. Merly just a screens you want,, ie water temp,boost,oil press. Etc
 
I would be happy with 2 gauges... oil temp and pressure. I have a boost gauge on the A pillar. Yeah it would be good to relocate that, but it would have to be one really picky cop to defect it as it's right down low.
This would be preferable as then if a gauge ever dies it's easy to replace with another one as they are all pretty much a standard size, fittings etc.

However if you digital gauge comes up looking the goods... then I don't have a problem with that. I just like needles! :)

I would buy one off you ASAP if you did something like this as my clock is out already! I was trying to find someone local who could make one but no luck yet.
 
You know I have the two guage pod that sits in clocks place and the clock screws to the base of it
 
I'd prefer to have all 3 in the centre in a nice neat clean pod. I'm not a fan of digital gauges at all sorry. You could always stagger the gauges and put them in a slight A or V shape to fit them all.
 
You know I have the two guage pod that sits in clocks place and the clock screws to the base of it

Yeah I know you build one initially but if it's the one I am thinking of the general consensus was that it was a good start, but it sits very high and doesn't really look very 'factory'... If that same idea could be improved on that would be awesome!
 
Yea the scooby pod,nah..
but that frog browsing pod is good, I can make that easy as if you want,but the mounting is used with the clocks clips so somehow dismantle the clock leaving only the mounting clips to fix to the new cover then alla .....

Yes I have that obscure looking one I mentioned and yes it is high but does the job, you can flush the dip and then replicate the dashboards anges and shape into it..
 
See if you could spread the gauges and put another one in the middle and either mount it a little higher or mound the middle gauge lower and raise the outside gauges and give it a flat top so its nice and clean and that would be boss.
 
How do items such as the hood latch and mounting tabs for the bonnet work? Do you use steel items fabbed into the mould? Because if you open and close your bonnet/boot regularly I am cautious as to the longevity of such items staying in place. Or do you use an OEM bonnet skin and just a CF bonnet skin on the top?
 
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