I seem to keep answering the same questions by private message, so I'm putting this info out there for reference when rebuilding your pump using my AYC pump overhaul kits. Smear some vaseline on the o-rings that go either side of the pump plate them to help hold them there. Actually, the pump gears should also be very generously covered with vaseline, pack heaps in. Vaseline is recommended by Mitsubishi for their transmissions as being compatible with their SP3 fluid, it will safely dissolve into it. The middle area should not be touched, it's important that it retains the factory machined finish. Unless of course yours was corroded there and you had no choice. I also would not use a wire brush on the o-ring grooves. Is there is dirt inside try to pick it out with something that won't scratch the metal or use a fine sandpaper like 1200 grit. I include some thick protective stickers you can use to protect the inner area while you work on cleaning up the area around it. Be sure to fit the pump plate the correct way out and with the VR4 pumps the text should be the right way up when the pump top is face up as it would sit in the car. The drain-back hole on the back half of the pump body needs to be oriented down towards the bottom of the pump, so that the oil that got behind the gears can drain back out. You will also notice that the semi-circular grooves behind the pump gears need to match orientation with the ones on the pump plate. I usually don't put the new motor shaft oil seal on until I've put the pump halves together just so I can do a final confirmation it's facing the right way. Ensure the pump gears are fitted with the dot marking facing outwards towards the pump plate. Also check that the spindle pin is seated correct. Seal around the outer join of the pump body sections with grease, I don't recommend to use silicone sealant in case you need to pull it apart again and try again. With the stainless plates, it's important to not over-tighten the pump body bolts during re-assembly. Otherwise it will press the pump gears too hard against the plate and make them difficult to turn. There is a potential to seize the pump if oil isn't coming through and it's run for more than a few seconds at a time like that. You can check by turning the spindle with a screwdriver, it should move freely. If it feels like it's binding at all, you need to loosen the bolts off. The Mitsubishi plates are aluminium which being softer avoids some of these things, but then as we know it has other problems. Check that the motor bearing has been correctly fitted to the motor shaft. From the bearing outer surface to the end of the motor shaft should be 12mm exactly. If the pump doesn't seem to be sucking in fluid and pressuring and you are certain you have assembled everything correctly, it's most likely you haven't purged the pump properly and there is air inside it. Hold the pump on end with the pipes facing up and using a funnel pour fluid down both pipes. Run the pump a second and do it again, then repeat a few more times. Anytime you suck air in you need to re-purge. After there is some fluid in the pump, hook up the AYC reservoir using both hoses, add plenty of fluid to that and be sure to keep it topped up while testing and held up so no air gets into the pump. If you find that it's not holding pressure you may have a dead accumulator bulb. Gently insert a thin long screwdriver or heavy gauge wire into the accumulator bulb neck (I use a piece of coat hanger wire), if it goes further than where the neck meets the bulb then the diaphragm is ruptured and you need to replace it. You may be able to get a suitable one from a local hydraulics shop, or find a good used one. They can't usually be shipped by air though due to being pressurised. These photos show a bulb with a good diaphragm. The diagram below shows an ABS accumulator bulb, but it's the same thing and gives you an idea of what's inside. Because the AYC bulbs are purpose build, there is no serviceable gas charge port. Usually if there is air inside the pump they won't suck fluid through when the pump is in the normal horizontal position. So you'll need to angle the pipes up until the air is out. The other thing to check is that you have the polarity on the pump motor correct. Once I was tired and couldn't figure out why it wasn't pumping, then realised I had the wires the wrong way and was running the pump backwards. If you previously did a test, it will take at least 30 mins to an hour for the pressure to subside to where the switch will reset unless you fire the solenoids. Also you need to block the outlet ports with blanking plugs to properly test as the solenoids are a pretty crappy seal and weep a lot of fluid through. In general, I go through a couple of litres of fluid when I test the pumps after purging all the air out and firing the solenoids a few times. If anyone has questions please ask here so others can benefit from the information.