trouble starting and stalling

[EVR4]

trouble starting cold and high idle when warm

Im having trouble starting the car takes forever, when it does it runs smooth but if I give it gas it bogs down and dies.

Any ideas?

 

[unclepaulie]

do you hav a pod filter?
maybe you need a new O2 sensor?
check your MAF sensor isnt bent or blocked

 

[EVR4]

do you hav a pod filter?
maybe you need a new O2 sensor?
check your MAF sensor isnt bent or blocked

yes had the Pod for over 2 years no problems.

I hear a Bad ISC can cause this?

 

[Guest]

Sounds more like you have blown a boost hose off or one is loose

 

[EVR4]

^ Thanks Ill double check my Charge/Intake piping

 

[Peter_D]

I'll go with Peter with this one.

 

[GavDaniels]

Hey,

It sounds very much like the issues I am having with my VR-4 at present.

Try disconnecting the MAF sensor and see how it runs. The ECU will go to the default fuel map, so economy will be screwed, but it will tell you if there is something wrong with the MAF sensor itself. If the stalling stops and it will accellerate and drive, then there is a possability that the MAF is faulty.

To check the Idle Stepper turn off the Aircon and keep the wheels straight. Stop the car. Leave the car off for a while to cool a bit, then start it up and let it idle until it warms up. Turn the steering wheel full lock and back again and see if the engine revs change when you hit full lock. Turn the Aircon back on and set to full cold. Again turn wheel to full lock and back again. If there is no change in engine revs when reaching full lock or when the AC is on then there is an issue with the Idle Stepper.

You can try cleaning it as is suggested on the ClubVR4 site.

Regards

Gavin

 

[EVR4]

Thanks, When it would start full lock would almost bring the engine to a stall.


I cant get it to run anymore keeps killing batteries, Thinking its a bad ground on the batteries part.

I will try the MAF thing once i figure out my starting issue.

 

[pu-11-me]

Bad grounding can cause a multitude of errors, especially from sensors....

Start with the easiest stuff first (Like the piping, grounding and checking error codes for progress with things you change) and see how you go

 

[GavDaniels]

Hey,

That certainly is sounding like the Idle Speed solaniod.

When this is playing up then the car will stall.

Disconnect it and try starting again.

I have mine disconnected at present, and I find that the car is idleing a little higher than usual (about 950RPM).

With it connected, I was having issues with stalling, not starting, not revving past about 1500rpm.

I have tried cleaning it, but it only lasted about 1500km before starting to play up again, so I am just about to chase up ordering a new one.

Regards

Gavin

 

[EVR4]

Hey,

That certainly is sounding like the Idle Speed solaniod.

When this is playing up then the car will stall.

Disconnect it and try starting again.

I have mine disconnected at present, and I find that the car is idleing a little higher than usual (about 950RPM).

With it connected, I was having issues with stalling, not starting, not revving past about 1500rpm.

I have tried cleaning it, but it only lasted about 1500km before starting to play up again, so I am just about to chase up ordering a new one.

Regards

Gavin

I fixed it yesterday, a combination of a bad ground in the boot (where the battery is) and the rear turbo's intake was not tight.

But my idle still dips when full lock.


Here is a place that sells them mate http://www.camskill.co.uk/products.php?plid=m22b0s1399p6902

 

[GavDaniels]

Hi,

Thanks for the link, I will get to ordering one.

You can try taking the ISC out and cleaning it, on the ClubVR4 forum some people have done this and it has worked fine.
I have already tried this and it lasted only 1000km before playing up again, so obviously mine was too far gone.
Is a difficult thing to track down, because most of the errors in mine pointed to the MAF sensor, which I replaced twice.

Regards

Gavin

 

[EVR4]

So im bringing this back up.

My Sensors are all fine tested them and replaced ones that were bad.

Ive driven the car (when it starts) over 1500 miles.

My wires to the crank angle sensor were alittle corroded and when the car was running and you touched them the car would die so I re wired it and now its fine. I also moved the ECU ground to a better location.

Now the car when cold stumbles trying to start but doesn't or takes FOREVER. when warm it will start but idles extremly high 2800rpms tried adjusting the BISS screw and its all the way down it only levels it out to 2600rpm's

It wont start when cold if I unplug the maf




Im running a Walbro 255lph fuel pump wired to a external switch that I have to turn on before cranking.

Old HKS pod filter

Greddy Type S BOV VTA

Custom Intercooler piping


Not sure if that info helps

 

[SiliconAngel]

Well, let's go over the possibilities. As suggested, it could (and is likely to be) air intake. Is the MAF sensor reporting properly? Have you tried pressure testing your intake to see if anything is leaking or opening up, even if it's not completely blowing off? Have you tried taking the pod off completely to see if that makes a difference (I wouldn't run it for more than a couple of minutes like this, and I'd use some nylon stocking to provide at least SOME filtering, just to be safe)?

It could be fuel; have you flow-tested your injectors? Have you had a look with EvoScan to see what the ECU is doing? If fuel delivery is inadequate, you'll get this result...

It could be spark, although I think that's less likely than fuel, due to the car responding poorly to throttle. Insufficient spark should affect you similarly all the time, not more for greater throttle.

Basically, if it's not something simple like loose pipes, blocked injectors or similar, then the next most likely cause is electrical, such as a sensor giving incorrect readings, causing the ECU to miscalculate timing and fuel delivery, or even the ECU itself. It is highly unlikely to be anything mechanical, as you'll have more substantial issues than this.

 

[bradc]

Could the BOV be leaking?

 

[EVR4]

^ Thanks guys Ill check those out

 

[GavDaniels]

Hey,

My fault turned out to be a corroded fuel pump relay.

The relay had fallen off the mount and was hanging upside down in the engine bay.
When I put it back in place, the car refused to start.

When I finally worked this out, I cleaned the relay and got some functionality back. The replacment relay has been working fine with no faults for almost 3000km.

I did find that the Legnum has a 8v (approx) power to the fuel pump in low throttle and a full 12v in high throttle. The relay switches the power to the fuel pump via a relay.

Might be worth checking the relay.

Regards

Gavin

 

[EVR4]

My fuel pump is hooked to a constant 12v source via a switch. could this be my problem to much fuel?

 

[Guest]

How are you controlling the fuel pressure

 

[EVR4]

How are you controlling the fuel pressure

im not lol the FPR controls fuel pressure from the factory.


could this be causing my starting issue?