king_panther
Gettin' tanked
- Location
- New South Wales
- First Name
- Brad
- Drive
- 2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
Why would you be buying oil filters from the UK?
VR4 Oil Filters
- Thread starter SiliconAngel
- Start date
Why would you be buying oil filters from the UK?
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
I bet you $100 there are better oil filters found locally..
do you have hard proof that it'll be good? not trying to be a dick, but having a blitz brand don't mean shit to me..
king_panther
Gettin' tanked
- Location
- New South Wales
- First Name
- Brad
- Drive
- 2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
I've got a SARD Magnetic Oil Filter sitting in my garage if you want to buy it...
G
Guest
Unregistered
K&N oil filter caused lifter tick from immediately after the oil change. It was supposed to have one the least pressure drops of all filters in testing. I'm going back to Ryco!
I couldn't agree more. I have been using Ryco and it does do a good job.
Macca
Showing some Leg.
I use the Ryco filters, I have never had a problem with them.
I have a few question for the guys with the oil coolers/relocation kits, I'm looking at doing this mod reasonably soon and just thinking a few things over before doing it.
When you doing an oil change, how do you clean out the cooler and lines or do you just leave the old oil in there? I'm guessing you don't, that would be a bad idea.
How much more oil do you have to put in to fill the system?
Is there anything to consider about the size of the cooler or when mounting the cooler? As in if you get a huge cooler it will screw with the pressure and cause problems wont it? Same deal if the entry and exit are facing up will that cause extra strain on the oil pump?
Cheers guys.
I have a few question for the guys with the oil coolers/relocation kits, I'm looking at doing this mod reasonably soon and just thinking a few things over before doing it.
When you doing an oil change, how do you clean out the cooler and lines or do you just leave the old oil in there? I'm guessing you don't, that would be a bad idea.
How much more oil do you have to put in to fill the system?
Is there anything to consider about the size of the cooler or when mounting the cooler? As in if you get a huge cooler it will screw with the pressure and cause problems wont it? Same deal if the entry and exit are facing up will that cause extra strain on the oil pump?
Cheers guys.
Brad i wouldnt mind talking it off you in a month or so's time when I get my oils changed...they must have changed my oil filter duing complaince and i'm pretty sure they would have put the shittest quality one they could find.
G
Guest
Unregistered
ryco z411 filter here and running perfectly.
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
ive been using cooper z142a alternative and to be honest, i find it better than ryco.. on cold starts i find the engine running more quieter compared to when I had ryco..
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
preferably, have the oil cooler higher than the oil filter relocation.. so that it'll gravity feed the oil through the lines.. also have the fittings on the bottomr rather than at the top..
with the oil filter adaptor.. try to get it higher than the oil filter relocation.. same concept gravity feed the oil..
i think you'll end up using approximately 4.5L opposed to 4L which is without the cooler/relocation..
oil cooler size? well it depends on what you do with your car/engine.. if you trash it around as if you're in a rally.. then the bigger efficient one would be.. but if its just to help your engine, then any oil cooler sized similar to the davies craig transmission cooler should be more than enough..
just be sure that the oil cooler can withstand at least 150psi.. just to be safe..
king_panther
Gettin' tanked
- Location
- New South Wales
- First Name
- Brad
- Drive
- 2012 VW Caddy 1.6TDI 7-Speed DSG. Still crappy DSG.....
OK. $25 & it's yours. I bought it from RHDJAPAN as a test but am never going to use it.
98 SPORT
Idling at the Lights
I use MD136466 on the VR-4,MD356000 on the Ralliart,thought you can use either, or, i have been told to only the MD136466 filter on the VR4,they are both internally visibly different.
I think at the end of the day its like oil,a personal thing, if it works and your happy the cars happy its all good.
I think at the end of the day its like oil,a personal thing, if it works and your happy the cars happy its all good.
I fitted a MD356000 this oil change, with the same oil (shell 5w40 syn) as I did with a Ryco Z142A. After only 1000km's it is ticking at start up, where before it lasted until about 4000km's.
Were you given a reason why to use the MD136466 since both are listed?
Were you given a reason why to use the MD136466 since both are listed?
Rosco
Leaving Skid Marks
well you guys have talked me out of the blitz filter and into ryco...thats a $38 saving
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
- Thread starter
- #56
Not trying to knock you here Chris, just quoting you because it's indicative of other comments like this.
The quality of your oil filter comes down to the quality of the material used, the density of that material and the level of filtration. All the filter is designed to do is filter contaminants (small particles of metal, mostly) out of the oil. Most standard filters are effective down to about 10 micron. Some bypass filters are effective to around 2 micron, which is extremely fine, but because the material is so much denser the oil can't pass through fast enough, therefore such filters can only be used in addition to standard filters (hence 'bypass', as much of the oil bypasses the fine filter, but eventually everything filters through it). There's nothing magical about filters - if you believe one filter 'feels' better than another (such as quieter cold starts) then either the filter isn't doing as good a job at filtering (thus more oil is available because it's just bypassing the filter) or you just have a little more oil in with one than another.
A higher quality filter may actually foul faster than a lower quality one, as the better filtration will catch more contaminants, thus clogging the filter quicker, leading to a pressure buildup, which will activate the bypass valve. Hence the 5,000km service interval - if you're changing your filter every 5k, there's no way you will have excessive contaminant buildup (unless you have something very seriously wrong!)
Something you can do to increase the effectiveness of your filter is adding a magnet system to the outside - there are details elsewhere on one that's commercially available. By adding some fairly strong magnets like this, you will catch a whole lot of particles the filter might otherwise let through.
I don't have enough experience to recommend one standard filter over another - even when I just had a single filter system I was using the Amsoil filter, and now I'm running a bypass kit. I've only ever used the Ryco and cheap alternatives for flushes.
I don't worry about the small amount of oil left in the oil cooler.
As for the other part- again, the small amount of extra capacity it adds will not effect the system. Just mount it and enjoy the cooler temps that darwin offers
bradc
1 AYC Bar
Trevor, can you put up pics of the bypass filter arrangement you've setup?
Macca
Showing some Leg.
Awesome, thanks for the info Simon.
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
- Thread starter
- #60
For you? Anything
Before you ask, the reason the hoses twist around the lower rad hose is to minimise the amount they touch bodywork (which could cause abrasion). There's not a lot of room to work with under there, particularly when you're trying to mount something this big as close to the same height as the original filter mount as possible.
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