Jsteel
Crunching Gears
thanks dan
VR4 Oil Filters
- Thread starter SiliconAngel
- Start date
bradc
1 AYC Bar
Actually I had my car hotter going around Taupo which has lots of corners through the in-field http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Taupo_Motorsport_Park
Compared to Pukekohe which is mostly straight http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pukekohe_Park_Raceway where I found my car would get hot going down the back straight, but stay fairly cool for the rest of the track.
Compared to Pukekohe which is mostly straight http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pukekohe_Park_Raceway where I found my car would get hot going down the back straight, but stay fairly cool for the rest of the track.
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
- Thread starter
- #83
Interesting - you must be revving quite high in lower gears. Could come down to cooling characteristics of your car too - the increased speeds from the shorter straights around Pukekohe may be providing additional airflow with lower comparative revs. Upgrading / re-engineering your cooling system should help keep temps under control better, but that would probably require substantial redesign of the front of your (99% street) car...
bradc
1 AYC Bar
Around the infield I would stay in 3rd mostly, getting up to the rev limit on some straights (bounced a few times at 7500rpm) rather than shifting at 6000rpm and being in 4th for only a few seconds. At the same time though, around the slower corners I was leaving them at 3000-3500rpm in 3rd.
At Pukekohe I was entering the back straight at about 80-90kmh and getting up to 235kmh which is just on 6000rpm with my gearing, the car as such was spending quite a bit of time from 5000rpm to 6000rpm in 5th gear down the back straight.
Either way my car still gets rather hot and I need to fix that at some point! It did the same thing with the stock radiator and the ~35mm thick version of this radiator http://features.evolutionm.net/article.php?id=108 and it didn't make a difference. I am using thin aftermarket fans but at race track speeds it shouldn't matter?
I've never lost any water or had mayonaise in the cooling system or on the oil cap. Tried varying levels of antifreeze from about 10% up to 50%, as well as one fill with water wetter, since then I have run a hose through it while idling for 30 minutes to clean it out, still no difference. Finally I've also wrapped the downpipes with no difference. Basically I've given up!
At Pukekohe I was entering the back straight at about 80-90kmh and getting up to 235kmh which is just on 6000rpm with my gearing, the car as such was spending quite a bit of time from 5000rpm to 6000rpm in 5th gear down the back straight.
Either way my car still gets rather hot and I need to fix that at some point! It did the same thing with the stock radiator and the ~35mm thick version of this radiator http://features.evolutionm.net/article.php?id=108 and it didn't make a difference. I am using thin aftermarket fans but at race track speeds it shouldn't matter?
I've never lost any water or had mayonaise in the cooling system or on the oil cap. Tried varying levels of antifreeze from about 10% up to 50%, as well as one fill with water wetter, since then I have run a hose through it while idling for 30 minutes to clean it out, still no difference. Finally I've also wrapped the downpipes with no difference. Basically I've given up!
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
- Thread starter
- #85
Your coolant isn't the problem - the coolant is getting hot enough, but it just can't get rid of the heat fast enough (although I would probably only run 1:4 coolant ratio in track conditions, to maximise heat transfer). You need to increase the cooling ability of your heat exchange system, which involves increasing the surface area of engine, increased water flow through the engine, increased surface area of the radiator and increased airflow through the rad. So you need a bigger (ie wider, taller and deeper) radiator, you need to design a properly ducting / sealing shroud that ensures maximum airflow through the rad, and ideally you need to redesign the water jacket to increase engine surface area to the coolant (I wouldn't bother with increasing water flow through the engine unless you had addressed all the others, as it requires redesigning the water pump which is no small feat). Increasing engine surface area is obviously prohibitively expensive, and the increased radiator probably is as well, as it requires substantial redesign of the front end of the car.
The air duct is doable, though - you want a front bumper with air ducts area that match up with the faces of your IC and radiator. Then you extend the ducts right up to edges of each. You also duct the back of the IC to the front of the rad (and when I say duct, I mean seal the edges of the ducts to the edges of the heat exchangers with foam padding). The design should be such that air is forced through the face of the two heat exchangers, ie:
/_________\
not: \_______/ or |_________|
(with the top of the diagrams facing forwards and the bottom depicting the face of your IC/rad), thus ensuring that once air hits the face of the IC / rad it has no choice but to flow through the heat exchanger, particularly with more air ramming in behind it. If you have the second or third design, air will spill over the sides (even with a deep duct). You don't need a particularly exaggerated angle either - about 5º in from 90 (or 85º) should do it. With such a design you will vastly increase the amount of air passing through the fins of your rad, possibly by as much as 100%, which should substantially benefit your temps.
One final note for the kids at home - if you want to flush stuff out of your cooling system (such as water wetter or oil) you will need a chemical that can actually break the substance down to remove it from all surfaces properly. Removing the thermostat and running water directly through the engine while idling will effectively flush all the existing coolant mixture out, but any chemical substances coating the engine and rad won't dissolve in water - they require a solvent. Experience has shown me that this may require a high-strength coolant flush under driving conditions. I realise this is not the recommended procedure as flush isn't designed to be an effective heat transfer solution, and indeed the activity through the cooling system as it operates can result in gasses (and hence expansion). So use with caution and careful monitoring. However I have found this to be the only way to effectively clean contaminated cooling systems on two occasions - once from oil after a cracked head and once with excessive rust.
My word, we're getting off-topic now, aren't we?! >.<
The air duct is doable, though - you want a front bumper with air ducts area that match up with the faces of your IC and radiator. Then you extend the ducts right up to edges of each. You also duct the back of the IC to the front of the rad (and when I say duct, I mean seal the edges of the ducts to the edges of the heat exchangers with foam padding). The design should be such that air is forced through the face of the two heat exchangers, ie:
/_________\
not: \_______/ or |_________|
(with the top of the diagrams facing forwards and the bottom depicting the face of your IC/rad), thus ensuring that once air hits the face of the IC / rad it has no choice but to flow through the heat exchanger, particularly with more air ramming in behind it. If you have the second or third design, air will spill over the sides (even with a deep duct). You don't need a particularly exaggerated angle either - about 5º in from 90 (or 85º) should do it. With such a design you will vastly increase the amount of air passing through the fins of your rad, possibly by as much as 100%, which should substantially benefit your temps.
One final note for the kids at home - if you want to flush stuff out of your cooling system (such as water wetter or oil) you will need a chemical that can actually break the substance down to remove it from all surfaces properly. Removing the thermostat and running water directly through the engine while idling will effectively flush all the existing coolant mixture out, but any chemical substances coating the engine and rad won't dissolve in water - they require a solvent. Experience has shown me that this may require a high-strength coolant flush under driving conditions. I realise this is not the recommended procedure as flush isn't designed to be an effective heat transfer solution, and indeed the activity through the cooling system as it operates can result in gasses (and hence expansion). So use with caution and careful monitoring. However I have found this to be the only way to effectively clean contaminated cooling systems on two occasions - once from oil after a cracked head and once with excessive rust.
My word, we're getting off-topic now, aren't we?! >.<
bradc
1 AYC Bar
Well off topic 
Even when my car was completely stock it overheated though, I wonder if there is something wrong with the engine somewhere.
Even when my car was completely stock it overheated though, I wonder if there is something wrong with the engine somewhere.
SiliconAngel
1 AYC Bar
- Thread starter
- #87
Hmm you could have something blocking up the water jacket somewhere... It should be possible to flow test it to find out. You should have seen the massive clots of oxidised crap that I got out of mine when I removed the water pump and thermostat! Easily big enough to foul things up. I'm hopeful after about 15 flushes (overall) I've cleared it all out, but I've never seen the temp gauge needle go higher than about 8 o'clock so I'm not too concerned.
A possible alternative that would be viable cost wise is one of the electric water pump systems.
These can have more sophisticated controllers to try and pump faster/slower as needed.. of course you have to consider how your thermostat goes with that, etc.
These can have more sophisticated controllers to try and pump faster/slower as needed.. of course you have to consider how your thermostat goes with that, etc.
Just wondering what the latest view on what oil filter to use would be?
A Ryco Z411, Ryco Z142A or the genuine mitsi ones MD136466 / MD356000?
(and wheres the cheapest to get the rycos from?)
(sorry I dont have time to spend hours trawling through the forums to find the definitive answer.)
A Ryco Z411, Ryco Z142A or the genuine mitsi ones MD136466 / MD356000?
(and wheres the cheapest to get the rycos from?)
(sorry I dont have time to spend hours trawling through the forums to find the definitive answer.)
G
Guest
Unregistered
Ryco Z79A is also another option. It's the shortest one available for our cars as far as I know.
G
Guest
Unregistered
Use z142a or whatever comparable that fits, I've tested heaps and never noticed a difference. It's about the same size as the genuine filter. Don't waste your money on them either.
G
Guest
Unregistered
I'm currently using either the 411 or the 142 (can never remember) but i'll be going to the 79a soon as i'll be running a sandwich plate so won't have much room left.
naughtika
OzVR4 Stalker
if its skinny, it's the 411.. if its fat its the 142a if its fatter then its z79a..
Macca
Showing some Leg.
I use the z56b, never had any problems.
G
Guest
Unregistered
And if you haven't seen this, but are still keen to go genuine:
Photos of the differences between genuine Mitsubishi oil filters
Photos of the differences between genuine Mitsubishi oil filters
fuji_heavy
Hesitantly Boosting
yeh is there any differences in the brands of oil filter. are the ryco ones ok? Its got a AcDelco on it atm.
drtydog
Idling at the Lights
I work in a fuso dealership and I can tell you any aftermarket filter doesn't even come close to the genuine filter in terms of filtration and actually lasting the distance and in fact a lot of trucks will give problems using aftermarket filters. I don't see why cars would be any different and for me personally I would only use genuine. for an extra $10 or so I think the peace of mind is worth while
Brianod
Idling at the Lights
Mitsubishi dealerships near Waterloo, Sydney
I'm trying to find a Mitsubishi dealer in my area that has a parts department so i can pick up a new oil filter. Can anyone tell me the dealerships in Sydney area that have parts department. I'm living just outside the city in Waterloo.
Cheers.
I'm trying to find a Mitsubishi dealer in my area that has a parts department so i can pick up a new oil filter. Can anyone tell me the dealerships in Sydney area that have parts department. I'm living just outside the city in Waterloo.
Cheers.
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