International VR4 presentation...

[mgd4]

G'day all,

Got an account a couple of days back. Figured I would write up a few lines on the situation.

Got hold of a VR4 Galant after tedious search - they are not that common in Nordic countries even if there are some.
The car have "some issues" which mean I have some work but, remain I confident.

In short, as it stands now:
Engine starts and purrs - a little uneven though.
Automatic gearbox - screwed I would say. Possibly in limp mode but, everyone speaks of limp mode and 3'rd gear, mine's on second. No flashing/blinking of Neutral which I can remember. Some comments from previous owner that cooling water went into the tranny. Not clear about status after that happened.

So, right now looking to get hold of a used automatic tranny with acc. control unit. Or, if I understood things right, just a replacement tranny of the right model. Reading the UK fellows and https://www.clubvr4.com/forum/showt...ox-Codes-and-AT-ECU-codes(and-date-of-change) , I am somewhere in the section of 4, 5 or 6.

I know of a tranny with parts broken off the "bell housing" which I can get my hands on ( I think that's what it's called in english at least). But, it's within the 1, 2 or 3 section of the afforementioned web page.

I wonder if:
1. my bell housing is still healthy after the "cooling water incident"
2. If it's possible to use my bell housing on the previous version. (if at all possible since I presume there is a need for a qualified tech to swap the bell housing on a gear box - especially an A/T.
3. What has broken, to get the cooling water into the gearbox, in the first place.

The car got AYC from start (I think) and is also equipped with a third party engine control unit. Some boost controller and also a heavily upgraded exhaust system is fitted.

That's the about the car.

Me then - well, just a guy with a teenage dream of a 6Gen VR4, which, upon lack of decent material, went for the Gen 8 VR4 instead.

But, I'm not the "race"/"Recaro"/hard launches" kind of guy. I just would fancy a nice, powerful, yet (for the time being) rather discreet ride during the summer months. And to tick the "own VR4" and "car restore" items on my "want" list.

Cheers,
MGD4

 

[mookers]

Welcome to the forum, E

Unclepaulie's infamous welcome template, version 17.3a

Stuff you need to know:
- Forum rules

Stuff that could save your life:
Do not buy aftermarket suspension parts, especially Lower Control Arms (LCAs)
- This is what happens if you don't replace your control arms
- Recall check using your chassis number

Useful threads:
- INDEX - Look here FIRST
- Guide to Galant & Legnum common problems
- The most important thread on the forum. MUST READ
- Oils and Fluids
- Staged Upgrades
- Legnum/Galant Production Info
- Posting photos, especially in the Classifieds

Posting new threads is restricted by default, for full access become a Premium Member:
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Please read before selling anything on this site:
- Rules for posting in the classifieds

 

[Legnooms]

I think generally if there is suggestion of water in the A/T then it was mostly a failed A/T thermo-exchange.
This is a section on the bottom of the radiator which the A/T fluid goes through in order to gain/shed heat (just keeps it at a nice temp). If that cracks or perishes then the coolant and the A/T fluid can mix..
Water will ruin the very specific requirements for the fluid to operate hydraulically.
Couple of things worth thinking about;
Does the car currently need the coolant topped up frequently?
(We want to work out if the radiator was replaced, and you're left with a dirty A/T, or if the culprit radiator is still there...)

If the radiator seems to have been replaced, (or, if you install a seperate oil cooler for the A/T and bypass the one on the radiator, info is on forums) then you could try putting new A/T fluid in, this may take a few goes to flush out all the cruddy fluid that may be in there.
This may not work because the A/T is a fairly complex unit with all sorts of galleys for the fluid to be trapped in so it will be difficult to get all the crap stuff out. It should give you an improvement though.
Follow steps on forums to enter diagnostic mode to check for any transmission fault codes that could point you in a different direction.

If the A/T is stuffed and you need to replace it, your bellhousing should not be damaged by the mixing of fluids however you would want to give it a thorough cleaning before you install it to the other A/T.
This picture from Phil's thread (https://www.ozvr4.com/threads/phil069s-2014-galant-vr4.14309/page-3) shows the bell-housing removed on the side.

It is not a specialised job and anyone capable of removing the transmission is capable of swapping the bell-housings. Just make sure your one gets a good clean first. At this point if you end up here, you will be able to see if your A/T has in fact got milky fluid or not.

Hello and welcome by the way!

 

[mgd4]

G'day Legnooms!

Awesome response onto my situation. I am sorry about my delayed return response.

I noticed that the engine was overheating when I started it the other day.
Have not had time to check coolant level in the "normal" radiator though.

So if I get your information right, there's a shared fluid "connection" between the A/T thermo-exchange section of the regular radiator, and the regular radiator part cooling the engine. If I am short of coolant fluid there and the car have had a "milky fluid" situation, there is a good likelyhood there can be problems there.

Yeah - water and oil does not mix well...
As said, I have not had time to check coolant level but, what we call the "expansion canister" (translated from Swedish) for the coolant system, has fluid in it, to slightly above "min" level.
I would say that the radiator is the one which was on the car when the "said" problem with water in A/T oil happened. (if it happened I am not so sure about.) Is there any way to verify if there is a "fluid mix" by disconnecting the radiator and flush it with something?

Are you saying I can get rid of the eventual risk of getting coolant water in the A/T oil, by mounting a separate oil cooler? I was considering doing that anyway, but, if that means I can circumvent what I believe is a weak point, that'd be awesome. Or am I being wrong in my perception?

Working on the "flashy dash" operation - any month now. Too much other things happening in life so, this one was "get it when the opportunity is there, and keep it for slower days to fix".

Btw - I read somewhere that putting a "new A/T tranny version" on an "old car version" can be a problem - what about the opposite - the tranny I can get from scrap yard is a xxxxxxxx6A while mine is a xxxxxxxxxx6B. ?

Ok. Well removing a tranny (M/T) i've done before - as well as putting it back. The A/T seems just to have a WHOLE bunch of more connections compared to the M/T. Btw - based on the picture attached, I believe "bell housing" and "sprängkåpa" as we call it is the same.

You've got to have some patience with me - both in regards of timing and in regards of english. I've only entered the world of car parts and english terminology just recently, but, hope I am not making too many mistakes.

Cheers,
MGD4.

 

[mgd4]

and - sorry for missing out - Legnooms and mookers - I appreciate the welcome.

Another cheers,
MGD4

 

[Legnooms]

Well, to check you could try change the ATF external filter if you have one, which should be easily visible next to battery. If you replaced that and then cut open the old one you should get a good indication.

Yes you can remove the risk by going with an external AT fluid cooler, bypassing the one which is part of the radiator. This way if anything did fail they do not share same compartment so you only lose coolant or lose AT fluid, but they will never mix.

Not sure about variations on transmissions.

The A/T removal is only slightly different to the M/T, I winged it and had no real problem. There is a good thread to follow on here and keep the workshop manuals handy and its all easy. Same transfer case and shaft set up so it should be pretty familiar.