what settings to tell a wheel alignment place?

[Stuii]

Hi guys,

I need to get a wheel alignment, but I'm wondering what specs I should hand over to the tyrepower guys?

camber, castor, toe and such

car is lowered but not massively and it's on coilovers.

Cheers guys!

 

[leebutts]

Hi,

you won't be able to adjust camber without an aftermarket kit (or using the guide in the How To section for the rear camber).

Here's my settings when I had mine set up for the track. Apparently it's a good idea to leave some toe in the back help catch any oversteer moments. I'm not sure what the castor is, or if it's adjustable on our cars (probably not).

cheers

Lee

 

[Kitty's VR4]

Factory Settings

 

[steveP]

depends how much u have lowered ur car. i told the guys to set mine up for grip/daily driving. however there isnt much adjustability in the wishbone style suspension.

ive got about -1.5 camber all round. (make sure u do the rear camber fix).

castor is dynamic camber. bit hard to explain, google it.

 

[Stuii]

yeah I know what castor is, just not what setting suits the car..

Thanks for all the info guys!!

 

[jet150]

Hey Stuii if you want a good setup or professionals setting up your suspension don't go to tyrepower go to CENTERLINE suspension off Mahoneys Rd Thomastown.

Trust me dude.

 

[bdscott]

Yeah I second Centreline although they don't seem happy about you waiting for the car which is a problem if you live far away

 

[cyber_scriber]

Can anyone recommend a decent wheel alignment shop in Sydney? Or is it something that any of Jax/Bob Jane etc can competently do?

Presumably, with a stock car, you would just turn up with the wheel alignment specs that Kat supplied and tell the shop to match them up?

 

[Kitty's VR4]

Bruce for a stock car, Yes I'd use the published factory settings.

Of course we'll have the "VOID-FAIL-OFFSET" idiots telling you otherwise, but I'm pretty sure Mitsubishi know how they designed their geometry better than these wankers.

 

[bradc]

On a stock car with very little camber at the front I would suggest 0 toe and the normal camber at the rear is around 1 degree, so you'll want a small amount of toe in, perhaps 0.5 degrees or so.

If you are running around 1 degree camber at the front and 2 degree at the rear which it sounds like you probably are (or there abouts) I'd still keep the toe at the front set to virtually 0 and the rear at about 1 degree to keep the tyre life decent.

 

[Mortz]

Yeah I really need to get my rear camber done. It's like -3 on the rear ffs :O So anyone who has done the camber fix what are my chances of not having to roll guards on 18x8 +38 rims with 225 tyres when I fix the camber back to reasonable setttings?

 

[bradc]

Slightly off topic of you Luke, but I'd say that yes you will need to roll your guards, but rolling isn't a big deal, so I wouldn't worry about it!

 

[Mortz]

Thanks mate

 

[cyber_scriber]

Thanks Kat and Brad.

Here's hoping that Jax/Bob Jane can do the job right.

I've read a few worrying tales of a few franchises scratching rims on removal; dropping the rims face down etc. I remember there used to be an alignment place near me where they would take the wheel nuts off by hand and carefully lay them against the wall tyre first. Closed down now and swallowed up by the tyre franchises.

 

[ygoslo]

Bruce for a stock car, Yes I'd use the published factory settings.

Of course we'll have the "VOID-FAIL-OFFSET" idiots telling you otherwise, but I'm pretty sure Mitsubishi know how they designed their geometry better than these wankers.

What a charming, bulletproof argument.

 

[ygoslo]

Here's hoping that Jax/Bob Jane can do the job right.

LOL I wouldn't count on it.