When turning car jerks and feels like i have welded diff?

Heatmakerz

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It looks to be in one peice. Check the CV joints. If they are fucked they can bind up and cause progressive binding with steering lock
I think it's the rear diff because I do have a limited diff in there when j spin one wheel the other spins the same way! So it thats next to come out or I'll try flushing it with new stuff again and some friction Modifier!
 

Heatmakerz

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Would you happen to know if there's any other mitsubishi that has our diffs? Just in case I have to upgrade my friction plates? Thanks
 

BCX

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You probably need to know what diff you have. If its oem vs aftermarket, or even mechanical vs viscous.

For mechanical oem, Evo RS.

For viscous oem, AWD magna/diamante.
I dont think the viscous diffa have plates, as they use a coupling unit.

Im sure others can probably add to this list.
 

Heatmakerz

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You probably need to know what diff you have. If its oem vs aftermarket, or even mechanical vs viscous.

For mechanical oem, Evo RS.

For viscous oem, AWD magna/diamante.
I dont think the viscous diffa have plates, as they use a coupling unit.

Im sure others can probably add to this list.
Thanks for your guys help!

So I have the diff apart and I'm just curious this is my first time doing this.

Are the plates suposed to look scared up?

The only ones that are scared are the presure plates from what I've watched on YouTube? Here's some pictures
 

Heatmakerz

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That's looks like an OS giken or cusco unit. Definitely not an OE RS unit
Can you tell by the plates? Or the hardware? Not to sure what to do next the plates look fine to me but not to sure what Abad one would look like!
 

6A13TT TYPE S

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The center section has 2 sets of ramps, 2 way and 1 way.
Looks to me like a cusco RS.

If it's been binding you need to do a plate shuffle to reduce break away torque or you had the wrong oil in it. Either way it's a pretty agressive diff for a street car. Hence why it's skipping the inside tyre.

A "plate shuffle" in a super simplistic explanationof 6 plates per side instead of the plates being stacked "driver>driven>driver>driven>driver>driven"
in an alternating fashion you can stack them "driver>driver>driven>driven>driver>driven"

Because 2 driver plates and 2 driven plates are side by side it reduces the effective frictional surface area which in turn reduces the locking torque for a given cam load.
 
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6A13TT TYPE S

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Looks like you also have 8 preload springs. If you take 4 out it will drastically reduce the breakaway which will make it chatter less in parking lots and sharp slow speed turns. That combined with a plate shuffle will make it a more mild mannered unit for the street
 

Heatmakerz

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Looks like you also have 8 preload springs. If you take 4 out it will drastically reduce the breakaway which will make it chatter less in parking lots and sharp slow speed turns. That combined with a plate shuffle will make it a more mild mannered unit for the street
Thank you so much! I appreciate it! I thought I was going to need a new diff or somthing! But yea it could have had the wrong oil in it I don't know! But I'll try the shuffle I might bug you on that later haha not to sure what driver and driven are I can try and research it. But yea it was a bad chatter as if I had a welded diff!
 

6A13TT TYPE S

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One clutch plate is driven by the housing(tabs on the OD)
The other plate drives the spider gear/axle shaft (tabs on the ID)

The way a plated lsd works is pressure is applied to squash the friction plates together to increase friction between the plates and therefore cause the LSD to "lock up" this pressure is applied in 2 main ways
-those preload springs which sets the break away torque. This is how much torque difference between left and right axles it will take to allow the shafts to slip the clutch plates and allow the axles to move at different speeds under no load conditions.

-the cam and ramps. Your diff has 2 sets of ramps so the diff can be set as a 2 way or a 1 way lsd.
The cam fits into these ramps and when torque is applied to the diff the cam wedges itself into these ramps forcing the center part of the diff to seperate and apply lots of pressure to the clutch plates, causing them to "lock up" (again the ammount of lockup or torque split across the axles depends on the cam shape, the ramp angle and how many plates you have and how you have them shuffled)

See the photo. The circle labeled 2 is the 2 way ramp as it wedges the clutches on both acceleration and deceleration ( when torque is applied in either forward or reverse to the diff)
The ramp labeled 1 only wedges the clutches in 1 direction hence the terms 1 and 2 way.

1000027890.jpg
 

6A13TT TYPE S

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I'm by no means a diff tuning expert bit try sending Neat an email
They are probablt the best in the business with setting up the cusco and OS units to be street friendly in evos. They should be able to tell you how many preload springs. And what's the best plate shuffle to get it to still.be a good lsd but not be a chattery lockey prick when your parking at the supermarket getting your groceries

Also I'm fairly confident they reccomend amosil severe gear with slip lock additive for diff oil
 

Heatmakerz

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I'm by no means a diff tuning expert bit try sending Neat an email
They are probablt the best in the business with setting up the cusco and OS units to be street friendly in evos. They should be able to tell you how many preload springs. And what's the best plate shuffle to get it to still.be a good lsd but not be a chattery lockey prick when your parking at the supermarket getting your groceries

Also I'm fairly confident they reccomend amosil severe gear with slip lock additive for diff oil
Thanks a bunch I have been reading a bit on it.
I'm glad that nothing is broken because it's pretty pricy! Thanks I wouldn't have know I'm glad I paid for this website haha! I ran motul in it but I will message them and see what they say and how to set up i just like a street style. It was terrible trying to park literally felt like the rear end was going to rip off!
 

Heatmakerz

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I'm by no means a diff tuning expert bit try sending Neat an email
They are probablt the best in the business with setting up the cusco and OS units to be street friendly in evos. They should be able to tell you how many preload springs. And what's the best plate shuffle to get it to still.be a good lsd but not be a chattery lockey prick when your parking at the supermarket getting your groceries

Also I'm fairly confident they reccomend amosil severe gear with slip lock additive for diff oil
Would you recommend it be switched to one way? On the website it says 1 way or 1.5 but I don't think I can do 1.5? Thanks
 

6A13TT TYPE S

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It might be 1.5. I'm just making an educated guess from your photos. You'll have to find a part number on it somewhere and search that on the cusco site....
 

Heatmakerz

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It might be 1.5. I'm just making an educated guess from your photos. You'll have to find a part number on it somewhere and search that on the cusco site....
Okay I will check when I get to my shop! I'm going to set at 1 way I found a pdf guide on there website! It says that's the best for street driving.
 

Heatmakerz

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Thanks for your help I appreciate it! I wouldn't have know the difference between a stock one! I wonder if the front is the same!
 
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