100,000km Major Service Parts List

[Guest]

Good Call on changing the plug hole seals when changing the plugs. Nearly all of them have some oil the holes on the rear bank. On a similar point, it's worth changing the rocker cover gasket at the same time whilst you've got the rocker covers off to change the plug hole seals, for the same reason. Rocker cover gasket P/N is MD174560.

The O2 sensor if needed is MD189008. It costs about £250 in the UK, hopefully a bit cheaper in Oz!

Water pump - MD302010 or MD180580. Not sure if there's a difference. The water pump on the VR-4 also fits the 6A12 cars like the FTO - Probably explains the two PNs.

Aircon Belt is same as the P/S belt (Both pumps driven by same belt).

Thermostat - MD175746 or MD337408, like the W/pump, it's used in more than the VR4.

Crank Oil seal (Cambelt side) - MD168055

One other observation... You've mentioned NKG BKR7EIX plugs. These will work, but they're a heat range colder than standard (6). They're a good idea if you've modded the car though - Keep the ping at bay!

 

[2000VR-4]

I would like to add, I have just done an engine service and used FUCHS 5/40 @ $75 5lt and a cooper (as we all should have after compliance) Z142.
Maybe its me but without changing boost I feel I have more power low down since an oil change???

 

[Guest]

Good Call on changing the plug hole seals when changing the plugs. Nearly all of them have some oil the holes on the rear bank. On a similar point, it's worth changing the rocker cover gasket at the same time whilst you've got the rocker covers off to change the plug hole seals, for the same reason. Rocker cover gasket P/N is MD174560.

The O2 sensor if needed is MD189008. It costs about £250 in the UK, hopefully a bit cheaper in Oz!

Water pump - MD302010 or MD180580. Not sure if there's a difference. The water pump on the VR-4 also fits the 6A12 cars like the FTO - Probably explains the two PNs.

Aircon Belt is same as the P/S belt (Both pumps driven by same belt).

Thermostat - MD175746 or MD337408, like the W/pump, it's used in more than the VR4.

Crank Oil seal (Cambelt side) - MD168055

One other observation... You've mentioned NKG BKR7EIX plugs. These will work, but they're a heat range colder than standard (6). They're a good idea if you've modded the car though - Keep the ping at bay!

Thanks mate the first post has been updated!

I would like to add, I have just done an engine service and used FUCHS 5/40 @ $75 5lt and a cooper (as we all should have after compliance) Z142.
Maybe its me but without changing boost I feel I have more power low down since an oil change???

Please stay on topic guys as too much BS being discussed here. I just need simple straight forward answers to the red question marks (in the first post) and anything else you may recommend for the 100,000km service.

I REALLY need a decent picture of a water pump and or power steering pump please. If anybody has ones they have replaced let me know as I need to try and find an OEM equivalent!

Also can someone please also check and confirm all my lubricant viscosities are correct (refer to spreadsheet in first post)

Thanks

 

[Guest]

The Viscocities look fine, as do the GL standards. GL5 is fine in the Xfer box and diffs but you're right to specify GL4 in the Manual transmission.

I note you haven't specified engine oil viscocity, though this is perhaps wise as it does depend on climate. The Mitsu Recommendation is 5w/30 or 10w/30. This is out of the Japanese owner's manual, so it should account for the relatively warm temperatures they have on the southern islands. Certainly a lot of UK and NZ peeps use grades around this spec without problems.

One other small comment - You've listed Genuine AYC fluid as something to buy - This is quite correct but it can be a nightmare to get hold of. If you get stuck, most of us in the UK (and the EVO boys do this too) substitute SP-III ATF without issues.

 

[SiliconAngel]

One other small comment - You've listed Genuine AYC fluid as something to buy - This is quite correct but it can be a nightmare to get hold of. If you get stuck, most of us in the UK (and the EVO boys do this too) substitute SP-III ATF without issues.

There's a discussion of this exact topic on ClubVR4 here

 

[Mr Gears]

As an Auto Parts Professional I cannot complete your parts list for you. I would like to though. I have made a good start already stocking a lot of the stuff you guys need. I have the water pump, timing belt kit, hydraulic timing belt tensioner, and lifters all quality aftermarket items. I am hassling the supplier for the rocker cover gasket kits as well. I am not sure why you would want to change the power steering pump at 100K though.

 

[Guest]

I am not sure why you would want to change the power steering pump at 100K though.

Agreed - In the UK we've found that the Pumps don't fail that often unless you start doing 360s with them (they really don't take well to that! Water Pump is certainly recommended @ 100k though.

 

[SiliconAngel]

unless you start doing 360s with them (they really don't take well to that!

I've heard this a few times (particularly when a certain someone burnt their's out at a track day ). K what causes them to fail? Do they just overheat? Would improved cooling fix this issue?

 

[Guest]

0w30 means its less viscous and therefore thinner at cold so it flows better on cold start up and can lubricate the engine quicker. why is not changing the hot side so important?

how do you know this? other than the gearbox the transfer case is probably the hardest working part of the drivetrain. a thicker oil when hot would probably help reduce wear and tear and even if it does break down by the time you clock up the kms to do a change would it be thinner than 75w90?

Just out of curiosity, are you an oil expert?

I worked as an oil rep for a while but no I dont know heaps but if the oil is rated at 70w140 you will find that the oil will break down and destroy the gear sets via corrosion rather then wear as the acidity will be increased.

 

[Guest]

One other small comment - You've listed Genuine AYC fluid as something to buy - This is quite correct but it can be a nightmare to get hold of. If you get stuck, most of us in the UK (and the EVO boys do this too) substitute SP-III ATF without issues.[/quote]


Gulf Western do a mitsi oil to match that so have a look in that direction if you cant find the right fluid.

 

[leebutts]

I've heard this a few times (particularly when a certain someone burnt their's out at a track day )

Yeah I remember him, what a tool....

 

[SiliconAngel]

Hahaha!

 

[leebutts]

I hear he has a bigger PS cooler now so next time the pump will hopefully survive

 

[SiliconAngel]

Is fluid temp the only problem then?

 

[leebutts]

Don't really know, but we needed to move the factory cooler pipe to fit the bigger intercooler and I figured better cooling couldn't make it any worse

Because motorkhanas are pretty low speed I can't see the cooler making that much of a difference.

 

[naughtika]

add 8" pull fan

 

[Guest]

On the subject of Power Steerig pump failure - Yes, excess heat can kill them. Usually they're okay on track if the fluid is still fresh and the power steering cooler is operating efficiently (I'll come to that in a sec).

What causes them to pop when doing 360s? One of the UK guys (StuartTurbo) works for a car part remanufacturer and explained this as it's far from unique to the VR-4:

When you've got the car wound over on full lock, the fluid in the pump does not flow through the system - it just recirculates in the pump so gets very hot - reaching 200deg C sometimes.

So the pump then promptly seizes. I used to test PAS pumps at 2500 rpm for 30sec [with no fluid flow] and the cast iron would smoke and these where pucker pumps; the ones fitted to the vr4s are vane pumping elements that are not as robust as roller vane technology.

This is also why on full lock, you get that whine from the power steering - that's the pump working against a shut or almost shut flow control valve - so yeah, it doesn't take too many RPMs to roast the fluid in the pump body.

I mentioned trackdays - No-one in the UK has lost a pump (to my knowledge). Generally, if a decent synthetic ATF is used in system, it can usually cope. The other point about cooler efficiency - In the UK you often see corrosion of the Power steering cooler pipes - the coating of oxide reduces the cooling efficiency. Also, again perhaps unique to the UK, to prevent this some people get a little carried away with underseal/waxoyl spraying and smother the cooler pipes with it - Stops it rusting, but doesn't do much for the cooler's heat rejection capability!

 

[SiliconAngel]

K you are truly worth your weight in gold, son!

 

[naughtika]

Lee, looks like you'll need to buy a decent sized fan for the PS cooler

 

[Guest]

I am hassling the supplier for the rocker cover gasket kits as well.

its the same as the 6a10/6a12 dohc (v6 FTO & v6 7th gen galant) one if that makes things easier