Advice on getting the motor out quick & dirty

[Kaldek]

Hey folks, I'm stripping a wreck for the motor and I want to get the motor & transaxle out as fast as possible.

@TME_Steve and @6A13TT TYPE S and @trotty do you guys have any advice for me.

I've previously done a clutch job myself so I know how to pop shafts and stuff, but I was being careful. I don't give a crap about anything except the motor and will happily bend stuff that is not sellable.

I was gonna go:

1. Remove all cables and hoses between engine and body
2. Pop driveshafts
3. Leave the transfer case connected
4. Hook engine to crane and take the load
5. Remove all engine mounts and roll stops
6. Move engine forward enough to drop driveshaft out
7. Lift engine out of bay

Does that sound feasible or am I gonna find a nasty blocker to my plan? I'm totally happy to nuke the front bar with an angle grinder with cutting wheel too. Only problem is I think the AC is still gassed.

 

[Kaldek]

Actually scratch the front bar idea. I need the crossmember secured so that we can get the shell towed out of the garage.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Ive had more motors in and out of these cars than I can count and the easiest way by far is
-Jack car up and drain fluids
-remove radiator. disconnect P/S and air con
-collapse front suspension and remove axles
-remove exhaust
-remove front and rear roll stoppers along with the north south bar
-take intake manifold off
-take loom and shifter cables and heater hoses off motor
-take engines weight with the crane
-undo engine and gearbox mounts
-lower engine box and transfer case combo out the bottom onto the floor
-remove engine crane
-jack up the car high enough to slide the engine and box out one of the wheel arches
-lower the car back onto axle stands

it can be a bit of a job to wiggle the motor past the Power steer pump and A/C pump if you leave them full of gas/fluid and attached to the chassis instead of the engine but considering your not bothered about putting it back together id drain both and just drop them with the motor

with leaving the A/C connected to the car I've got it down to about 2-2.5 hours from starting the job to having the motor and box on the floor. could be quicker If it was a parts car where it didnt matter so much if one or two things got bent in the process

 

[Kaldek]

Ive had more motors in and out of these cars than I can count and the easiest way by far is
-jack up the car high enough to slide the engine and box out one of the wheel arches

Say whaaaaat? Out the wheel arches? Why would I not just yank the thing out the top?

Also, I assume when I drain the AC I should pop it and run away for a while? I have no idea how poisonous that gas is. Also probably sure it's illegal to vent it....*cough*

 

[Gt_Galant]

Is the motor you pulling out of the wreck from a auto or manual ?

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

because the gearbox/engine combo is wider than the chassis rails. its a wanker to get out the top.
Plus going out the top means you need to pull the transfercase off first which is more work.
trust me its a fkload easier to just plonk it on the floor out the bottom and just drag it out out from underneath.

as for the AC, yeah you don't wanna be breathing that in. let it go and walk away for 15 min or so. not that I would do something harmful to the enviroment like that

 

[Kaldek]

Is the motor you pulling out of the wreck from a auto or manual ?

Auto.

 

[Gt_Galant]

Okay.
If they are anything like the 7th Gen 6A12TT engines in the Galants the auto's has to be taken out from the bottom because its basically impossible to take out from top with the gearbox attached because gearbox is a bit longer, but the manual ones can be taken out from the top with the gearbox attached as its a bit shorter than the auto box. So it might be the same like the 8th Gen ?

 

[Kaldek]

Okay.
If they are anything like the 7th Gen 6A12TT engines in the Galants the auto's has to be taken out from the bottom because its basically impossible to take out from top with the gearbox attached because gearbox is a bit longer, but the manual ones can be taken out from the top with the gearbox attached as its a bit shorter than the auto box. So it might be the same like the 8th Gen ?

OK any tricks to removing the auto from the engine? Stuff locking it to the flywheel?

 

[pretzil]

Just 4 little bolts on the flex plate. Remove them from a hatch near the starter motor before removing the engine.

 

[Kenneth]

If you are in a hurry and you still need to tow it, you can still cut everything (except the bumper, or "crash bar") off so long as you don't take the chassis rails. That way you can bolt the bumper back on and tow it with that and a strop/rope or whatever.

Or you can do what I did. drop everything heavy from the chassis, then get a few guys around and carry the chassis to where it gets picked up and viola.

 

[naughtika]

one thing i dont see is cover the a/c evaporator with some sort of metal sheet. to avoid it from getting damaged

 

[Kaldek]

one thing i dont see is cover the a/c evaporator with some sort of metal sheet. to avoid it from getting damaged

Yeah but I don't give a shit about that. It's bent, and it's in the way.

 

[Kaldek]

Just 4 little bolts on the flex plate. Remove them from a hatch near the starter motor before removing the engine.

Champion!

 

[Kaldek]

OK, since I couldn't turn the motor over (assuming due to the transmission damage), I had to remove the transmission with those bolts on.

Now I can't get the bolts off because I still can't get to them. I can't get a decent purchase on them because they are so close to the oil pan.

Do I really have to remove the oil pan to get the necessary space to get these bolts out?

 

[AKKO]

Unrelated did the wreck/donor car have front end damage and are those panels available?

 

[Kaldek]

Unrelated did the wreck/donor car have front end damage and are those panels available?

Front end is a piece of shit. Destroyed, unfortunately.

 

[Kaldek]

Here's the motor and the clearance issues.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

to lock the TC stick an allen key through one of the bell housing bolt holes with the short end leaning against the ring gear.

and I really don't see your problem. a socket will fit on there no sweat.
or just use a breakerbar so its close to the bolt not against the sump

 

[Wiggles]

OK, you don't need to use a 1/2 drive ratchet on it.

If you have a good 3/8 drive, you can normally butt the socket up against the side of the sump for stability to undo the bolt. Even try taking off the extension. I've had to do this before, not hard, but next time, do it while the engines still in the car