Car Audio Basics

steveP

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Steve
Drive
VR4 Galant
You might be able to sort out the mid range via playing around with the head unit settings. May not be a long term solution, but it's the cheapest.
 

slickd1

Wizard
Lifetime Member
Location
NSW
First Name
Matthew Dundon
Drive
1998 EC5W Manual Legnum.
Nice little surprise, already has kicker splits in the front and 2 ways in the back. Just need to power them properly
 

MatiLP640

5W4G0N
Lifetime Member
Location
Brisbane
First Name
Matt
Drive
1999 Black Legnum VR4
Hi guys,
I looking for sub for my Legnum I need to choose between Vibe active sub SLR12TA-V1 and this is 2x 12" enclosure or single Alpine Type R with Alpine monoblock as well enclosure... And I have no idea what will be better, both have the same price and both are pretty close, what you guys think? What will be better?

Cheers
 

steveP

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Steve
Drive
VR4 Galant
I would personally go for the single sub with better specs than 2 that are mediocre.
 

CANDEE

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Jeremy
Drive
1998 Galant VR4
I would go with the Alpine for a better sounding sub.

Yes the Vibe might end up louder, but the Alpine should sound better and have less distortion on the limit.

I currently have a lowish end 12" sub in our DC5, that sounds nowhere near as good as one of my better quality subs in the same car/box/amp. It just doesnt have the control at the limit ie it cant keep up with the cone movement effectively and gets a bit muddy.
 

jungle

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
QLD
First Name
Simon
Drive
1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
I have the Alpine 12 inch Type R sub with Alpine MRP-M500 amp- sealed enclosure. Can't fault it. Great for soft and tight sounds, can also perform doof doof with ease if required.
 

MatiLP640

5W4G0N
Lifetime Member
Location
Brisbane
First Name
Matt
Drive
1999 Black Legnum VR4
Thanks guys, like you said, I went with Alpine, Type R sub SWR-1242D and Alpine amp MRP-M450 ;)
 

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douwboy

Leaving Skid Marks
Premium Member
Location
Blacktown
First Name
Joshua
Drive
2000 Legnum pearl white, manual, sunroof
Good choice mate i run the same box with an updated sub and it sounds great.
 

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
Guys I want to build my galant audio and I need some advice on my build.

what i have so far are
1. stock MMCS head unit
2. Alpine PXA 700 sound processor
3. VPA B222R Alpine commander hub pro to control everything on audio

what I want are
1. Stock HU must be remain MMCS HU (high output)
2. 1 Subwoofer 8 inch installed in stock rear parcel deck
3. 4 speaker split (front and rear) must be up rate stock replacement in size, must be fit into stock speaker mounting.
4. power amp only 1 unit.
4. orientation is SPL no SQ. I dont need high spl either just enough to hear one from metallica loud n clear ha ha ha ha

questions are
1. stock MMCS HU is high output so I think we need RCA Pre amp output. what the best rca pre amp i should buy out there? 2 or 4 channel?
2. I need to know how many power amp channel I need to buy to run 4 speaker + 1 subs.and the wattage. i am thinking about 6 channel amp to power 4 speaker splits and bridging 1 subs?
3, should i buy power amp? because the alpine commander already 4 power output
4. Need to know value for money 8 inch subs that fit into stock subs and the wattage needed
5. need to know what speaker split i should buy and the wattage needed.
6. what i should i buy related part to my build

please, any suggestion welcome since alpine stuff pxa processor and vpa222 commander already 4 years with me gathering dust. TIA
 

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
Guys I want to build my galant audio and I need some advice on my build.

what i have so far are
1. stock MMCS head unit
2. Alpine PXA 700 sound processor
3. VPA B222R Alpine commander hub pro to control everything on audio

what I want are
1. Stock HU must be remain MMCS HU (high output)
2. 1 Subwoofer 8 inch installed in stock rear parcel deck
3. 4 speaker split (front and rear) must be up rate stock replacement in size, must be fit into stock speaker mounting.
4. power amp only 1 unit.
4. orientation is SPL no SQ. I dont need high spl either just enough to hear one from metallica loud n clear ha ha ha ha

questions are
1. stock MMCS HU is high output so I think we need RCA Pre amp output. what the best rca pre amp i should buy out there? 2 or 4 channel?
2. I need to know how many power amp channel I need to buy to run 4 speaker + 1 subs.and the wattage. i am thinking about 6 channel amp to power 4 speaker splits and bridging 1 subs?
3, should i buy power amp? because the alpine commander already 4 power output
4. Need to know value for money 8 inch subs that fit into stock subs and the wattage needed
5. need to know what speaker split i should buy and the wattage needed.
6. what i should i buy related part to my build

please, any suggestion welcome since alpine stuff pxa processor and vpa222 commander already 4 years with me gathering dust. TIA

I just realize the vpa b222 hub commander has speaker level input so i think we can skip the high to low rca pre amp converter. The rest i still need your guidance guys
 

Slinz

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Tom
Drive
Grubby Nissan
questions are
1. stock MMCS HU is high output so I think we need RCA Pre amp output. what the best rca pre amp i should buy out there? 2 or 4 channel?
2. I need to know how many power amp channel I need to buy to run 4 speaker + 1 subs.and the wattage. i am thinking about 6 channel amp to power 4 speaker splits and bridging 1 subs?
3, should i buy power amp? because the alpine commander already 4 power output
4. Need to know value for money 8 inch subs that fit into stock subs and the wattage needed
5. need to know what speaker split i should buy and the wattage needed.
6. what i should i buy related part to my build

I'm no super-expert but may as well throw in my two cents here. Why are you wanting to retain the stock head unit, out of interest? I'm sure you have a good reason.

1. I would tend to avoid using speaker level inputs to be honest. Apparently shorting to ground is a common occurrence when using them, and RCAs are a nice solution.

2. Generally I've only ever bothered to amplify my front pair of speakers (after my first ever car I had a 4ch amp for all 4 and the rears were a massive waste). I'd suggest the same for you. Spend as much as you can on the front splits, cheap out a bit on your rear speakers (don't need splits here IMO) and make sure there's budget for decent clean power e.g. better quality amps over higher wattage rated. So, either 1x 4ch amp (2ch for fronts, 2ch bridged for sub) OR 1x2ch amp (for fronts) and 1x mono amp (for sub) and run your rear speakers off the Alpine hub's 50w channels.

3. As above. It depends on what speakers you go for. The 50w (max, which means about 12-15w RMS) channels on the Alpine hub will work but you won't get the most out of just about any decent aftermarket splits in this way. Find RMS figures for your desired speakers and work from there. The sub will definitely need amplifying either way.

4. I know JL make some good 8'' subs but maybe a bit pricey. Alpine type R comes in 8'' too. Really you get what you pay for in my experience with subs. In the stock position you will not be getting great sound quality from any sub, since the container size and shape has a big say in how a sub will sound. My advice is pick up something from a reasonable name-brand second hand or on sale since you won't get your money's worth by sticking an expensive sub into the parcel shelf location.

5. Completely subjective and maybe you'll find a good amp first then buy speakers to match, or vice versa. Polk, JL, Image Dynamics, Focal, Hertz, even the pricier splits from the obvious guys like Alpine, JBL, Rockford Fosgate. Comes down to price point and what you can get a good deal on. Again, I think get one pair of the best splits you can afford for the fronts, then go cheaper coaxials in the rears, because they don't make a great deal of difference they just kind of 'fill' the cabin a bit.

6. You're gonna need a wiring kit at least. E.g. power/ground wire for your amp(s), speaker wire to cover some extra territory, RCAs if you use them and so on. Beyond that it's hard to say until all the bits are together, and I'm not familiar with the finer details of the processor so I'll leave this one for someone else.
 

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
I'm no super-expert but may as well throw in my two cents here. Why are you wanting to retain the stock head unit, out of interest? I'm sure you have a good reason.

1. I would tend to avoid using speaker level inputs to be honest. Apparently shorting to ground is a common occurrence when using them, and RCAs are a nice solution.

2. Generally I've only ever bothered to amplify my front pair of speakers (after my first ever car I had a 4ch amp for all 4 and the rears were a massive waste). I'd suggest the same for you. Spend as much as you can on the front splits, cheap out a bit on your rear speakers (don't need splits here IMO) and make sure there's budget for decent clean power e.g. better quality amps over higher wattage rated. So, either 1x 4ch amp (2ch for fronts, 2ch bridged for sub) OR 1x2ch amp (for fronts) and 1x mono amp (for sub) and run your rear speakers off the Alpine hub's 50w channels.

3. As above. It depends on what speakers you go for. The 50w (max, which means about 12-15w RMS) channels on the Alpine hub will work but you won't get the most out of just about any decent aftermarket splits in this way. Find RMS figures for your desired speakers and work from there. The sub will definitely need amplifying either way.

4. I know JL make some good 8'' subs but maybe a bit pricey. Alpine type R comes in 8'' too. Really you get what you pay for in my experience with subs. In the stock position you will not be getting great sound quality from any sub, since the container size and shape has a big say in how a sub will sound. My advice is pick up something from a reasonable name-brand second hand or on sale since you won't get your money's worth by sticking an expensive sub into the parcel shelf location.

5. Completely subjective and maybe you'll find a good amp first then buy speakers to match, or vice versa. Polk, JL, Image Dynamics, Focal, Hertz, even the pricier splits from the obvious guys like Alpine, JBL, Rockford Fosgate. Comes down to price point and what you can get a good deal on. Again, I think get one pair of the best splits you can afford for the fronts, then go cheaper coaxials in the rears, because they don't make a great deal of difference they just kind of 'fill' the cabin a bit.

6. You're gonna need a wiring kit at least. E.g. power/ground wire for your amp(s), speaker wire to cover some extra territory, RCAs if you use them and so on. Beyond that it's hard to say until all the bits are together, and I'm not familiar with the finer details of the processor so I'll leave this one for someone else.

Thanks for your advice Tom I really apreciate it. my decision to retain stock MMCS unit is simple just to make it look stock/old skool with up rate sound. I do interested in new android head unit, I am not lie. but then i thought its better galant left with MMCS head unit / remain old skool and i like to keep it that way, and give the fancy head unit to my wife car. he he he, after all MMCS stock head unit sounds is not so bad either.

Well, I ve made decision to use Alpine Type R split an front and coaxial at rear. next i want to buy the power amp, take decision later about the subs.

my friend offer me a used old skool power amp
1. Phoenix gold xs6600 6 channel

http://www.usaworldsales.com/produc...SER_6_Channel_Amplifier_AMP_NEW-6063-882.html

2. Alpine 3566 6 channel, total 600 watt

https://docs.google.com/file/d/0BzQ16A4An7c3U1FlX2M3N25MWWc/edit


my orientation is SPL with 6 channel power amp mode. with alpine type r speaker front and rear what should i choose between the two? and what power rate minimum of 8 inch subs needed?
 

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
On second thought I choose aIpine 3566 over PG xs6600, and thus change decision on choosing the speaker split. decision on choosing the power amp indeed affect the speaker decision he he he.

better measure the stock speaker size and look what speaker available to suit the power amps and my sound system setup
 

Slinz

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Tom
Drive
Grubby Nissan
On second thought I choose aIpine 3566 over PG xs6600, and thus change decision on choosing the speaker split. decision on choosing the power amp indeed affect the speaker decision he he he.

better measure the stock speaker size and look what speaker available to suit the power amps and my sound system setup

You'll fit the Alpine 6.5'' Type R's in the doors, no problem there. If you want to save some money, my advice is settle for Type S for your rear coaxials - the difference in quality isn't big enough to bother spending the extra on rear doors, IMO.

With the 6-channel amp, you can use the 2 high-power channels bridged for your sub, and then use the remaining 4 channels for your 4 speakers. As I said, you can also consider a 4-channel amp, and do the same (bridge 2 channels for sub, use 2 channels for front 2 speakers) while powering the rear speakers from the hub. If you have a good price for the 6-channel amp then go for it.

Also consider that the Type R's can take much more than the 40w that Alpine amp produces in the 5-channel setup. I think their RMS wattage is more like 100 or 120w. Still, they will sound much better running off 40w RMS from the amp than they will from 12w RMS from the hub!
 

Gav

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Sydney
First Name
Gav
Drive
Galant
I run type r's in all 4 of my doors and parcel shelf in my galant. not a bad speakers. Brought mine from Ryde.com.au I know an amp has been installed but haven't checked what it is.
 

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
I run type r's in all 4 of my doors and parcel shelf in my galant. not a bad speakers. Brought mine from Ryde.com.au I know an amp has been installed but haven't checked what it is.

6 speaker + 2 tweeter and 1 subs? i once wants to use 8 (7.1) channel amp and bought an galant avance rear door trim with speaker pod from germany, but my friend said the sound will be bad, mixed up, expensive and hard to set in sedan, and my audio processor only provide 5.1 dts. so I drop the whole set up idea and sell the rear door trim with speaker pod locally ha ha ha
 

ersanalamin

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Indonesia
First Name
Ersan Al Amin
Drive
Year 2000 EA5A => FL EC5A
You'll fit the Alpine 6.5'' Type R's in the doors, no problem there. If you want to save some money, my advice is settle for Type S for your rear coaxials - the difference in quality isn't big enough to bother spending the extra on rear doors, IMO.

With the 6-channel amp, you can use the 2 high-power channels bridged for your sub, and then use the remaining 4 channels for your 4 speakers. As I said, you can also consider a 4-channel amp, and do the same (bridge 2 channels for sub, use 2 channels for front 2 speakers) while powering the rear speakers from the hub. If you have a good price for the 6-channel amp then go for it.

Also consider that the Type R's can take much more than the 40w that Alpine amp produces in the 5-channel setup. I think their RMS wattage is more like 100 or 120w. Still, they will sound much better running off 40w RMS from the amp than they will from 12w RMS from the hub!

heres pic of my stock Galant parcel shelf stock speaker. isnt bad for alpine 3566 is it? dont know what the trade mark is, ALP? i havent check the size of the front but it is also ALP and guess it will be also 6,5 inch and spec

DSC_0902.JPG
 

Slinz

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Tom
Drive
Grubby Nissan
Definitely don't try to run 6 speakers. A lot of people only run 2 speakers (fronts) because with each set you add you are making it more and more difficult/costly to achieve good sound quality.

No idea what that speaker is. Google doesn't give me any help so it's hard to say. Seems that they are okay for 45w RMS which, if they sound okay, makes them probably fine to keep in the rear. Once you have good amp-powered front splits you will end up running the fronts much louder than the rears and will barely notice them, they just 'fill' sound.
 
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