Robs V2.0 Forged Engine Build

[jet150]

Ok here I go again, last year I was going to do a cam regrind install but after discussions with my mechanic and a price I couldn't refuse from KANARIS Engines I decided to build an E85 guzzling Forged engine for the VR4.

This is a list of machining and work that Kanaris Engines was doing for me:

Bore and Hone 6 cylinder engine block with torque plate

Deck V6 block up to .015"

Balance V6 engine internal, including balancer and flex plate

Linish Crank

Blue print assemble long engine V6

Oil clearance check, big end, mains, cam, ect

Cut seats valve grind, reco

Top cut valve seats inlet and exhaust

Race port heads V6 multi port

Surface heads up to .015"

Final wash and d-burr heads+valves for assembly and assemble

Back cut valves

Check valve guide clearence

Inlet manifold match ported


Parts list so far:

Wiseco pistons + rings

Prism rods + ARP2000 bolts

Adams cam regrinds and valves springs

ARP2000 rod bolts

ARP 625 custom age head studs

overhaul gasket kit

We were going to get custom made exhaust valves from the states but the price was ridiculous. Kanaris said we will get better results from a full port job and will be much cheaper than the valves. This build will be running straight E85 and BIG boost so I got something special to hold the heads down. Here are some pics.

Pics of the block after it was done

MORE to come.

 

[Dice]

Have you had the same issues with the Prism rods fitment that Adam mentioned in his thread?

 

[jet150]

None at all.

 

[sideburns]

I just had my engine at the machine shop and the prism rods needed machining due to side clearance issues but all is fixed now sorry for jacking thread I thought I would add that in

 

[sideburns]

Solid build are you using the same turbo setup?

 

[whats_doing]

SNIP....

At least your photos aren't as blurry as Adams......

 

[jet150]

Solid build are you using the same turbo setup?

Yes I will be using the same turbos. Remember my turbos have GT2554 housings but have comp wheels from GT2860RS's so they have a shit load of puff. Im also getting a new front turbo manifold made up as the old one was pretty crap. These turbos also have custom made compressor covers made.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

I'm keen to see how your cylinder heads turned out!

are you still using 10mm head studs? or have you gone to the 11mm evo studs?

 

[jet150]

Im at work and im bored so i'll put up some more pics. In order to get the turbos spooling off the line I got DOMINATOR to fit a 2.5 stall to my converter. I wanted to go 3 but 2.5 was all they could fit in the converter.
.

Adam I will put some pics of the heads later but, to answer your question about the head studs I was going to use the 11mm studs but after talking to ARP and the builder they told me to get something much stronger. Since I will be running E85 and 20-25psi ARP said there is a slight chance the heads can lift in the long run so I wanted to do the job right the first time. ARP recomended that I use the 625 custom age studs, these studs are 10mm, custom made and are fit and forget. They are the strongest head studs ARP supply. When they arrived each stud was individually packed and sealed in a plastic case.

More pics to come.

 

[jungle]

Nice work Rob!

 

[Schneider]

Looking like a good upgrade here for v2.0. I'm surprised they have decked the block and head by almost a mm. Will that be compensated for by a thicker head gasket or is the valve to piston clearance still fine? At least it would help keep the engine a little more responsive off boost.

You can buy ARP 625+ head studs for the 3SGTE off the shelf - you shouldn't need a custom part. They just cost a little more than the L19 ones. Though I am surprised people are buying the L19 studs at all, considering this engine has been known to have oil fuel dilution... Those studs will be able to handle a beating, that's for sure! I'm quite tired, but it looks like M11 is written on those studs. So they may just be 11mm.

 

[AKKO]

Following with interest, getting onboard with the same rods/pistons soon

 

[Badger]

Manual it

 

[smohekey]

This is almost exactly what I'm currently doing. The main differences are the choice of turbo, and that mine is getting a manual gearbox.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Yeah Rob I am using CA625+ studs too except I am using 11mm not 10mm so stronger, just out of interest what is the Torque setting for the 10mm 625+'s? my 11mm ones are 100 ft/lb

and agree with Badger! ditch the auto tragic!


@Schneider The 6A's have shitload of piston to valve clearance. even with my 280 degree 12mm cams on stock centerlines the forged engine I built for Carl had almost .2" of clearance. @TDC, this is largely due to the dish in the pistons. and with Robs intention to run E85 a wee bit more comp is excellent!


I

 

[jet150]

Adam auto trans=quicker 1/4 times. Also I think I was wrong about my studs, looking at the tap that came with the studs I think I have 11mm too. Will sus it out on Monday.

 

[jet150]

Here's a couple of pics of the valve seats being re-cut after the heads were rough cut.

 

[Nitephyre]

This should be awesome... hate to think of the $$$ though

 

[jet150]

Yeah Rob I am using CA625+ studs too except I am using 11mm not 10mm so stronger, just out of interest what is the Torque setting for the 10mm 625+'s? my 11mm ones are 100 ft/lb

and agree with Badger! ditch the auto tragic!


@Schneider The 6A's have shitload of piston to valve clearance. even with my 280 degree 12mm cams on stock centerlines the forged engine I built for Carl had almost .2" of clearance. @TDC, this is largely due to the dish in the pistons. and with Robs intention to run E85 a wee bit more comp is excellent!


I

Adam went past the workshop yesterday and my bad the studs are 11mm ARP don't make them in 10mm.

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

yeah so same studs as I have then.
you can get 10mm CA625+ studs. SAF68 over on clubvr4 has used the 10mm CA625+ studs on his forged build but he is probably using the Toyota 3S-GTE kits,