Upgraded your suspension? Fill out the Suspension Survey!

GLen20

Barring Up
Premium Member
Location
South Australia
First Name
Glenn
Drive
2002 Type S Galant, Ducati Streetfighter 848, 1971 2 Door LC Torana (in pieces)
Hey all. I'm looking to replace my suspension soon and wanted to get some real world opinions from people who have already done this, to also help other members in the future. (There's a lot of threads and discussion on this).

If you can copy and paste the below with some answers it will be appreciated. Thanks!
(This is for springs and shocks only, maybe include sway bars, bushes or other upgrades in the comments section)

What is your ride?:
(Model, year)

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:

(1= stock is fine, 2= nice sport luxury, 3= It's sports car, 4= hard-ass streeter, 5= track weapon)

When did you replace your suspension?:


What did you replace it with?:


How much?:

(optional)

Where did you get it from?:


Spring rates?:

(Front / Rear)

Damping settings?:

(F setting/range, R setting/range)

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
(1= Comfort is priority, 2= Firm-ish, but well damped, 3= Firmer, with thunks, 4= Handling is priority, 5= My nuts)

Ride height you're running?:
(1= speed bumps are out, 2= diagonal speed bumps, 3= speed bumps ok but driveways diagonal, 4= bit lower than stock, 5= Yes I'm driving a magna)

How would you describe the handling now?:
(1= same as factory, 2= a definite upgrade from factory, 3= sacrificed some ride for handling, 4= flat, hard street weapon, 5= handling above all else, its an absolute weapon)

Any downsides?:
(Noisy, would you have done something differently? etc)

Further comments:



 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
What is your ride?:
1998 PFL Leggie

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:

2= nice sport luxury

When did you replace your suspension?:

2009, I think

What did you replace it with?:
Tein Super Wagon coilovers

How much?:
AUD$1200 delivered

Where did you get it from?:

from RHDJapan

Spring rates?:

(Front / Rear) 5/3

Damping settings?:

About 3/4 of the way to the firmest setting, front and rear

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
1.5 = could be damped a little better, maybe I should tighten them up sometime

Ride height you're running?:
3= speed bumps ok but driveways diagonal

How would you describe the handling now?:
2= a definite upgrade from factory

Any downsides?:
slightly noisy, and one of them occasionally goes clunk on large movements, tightening the spring height collars helps but it tends to re-occur

Further comments:
My mum said the ride quality was great, and I didn't even ask her lol
 

MOR31

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
qld
First Name
john
Drive
lancer
What is your ride?:
1997 lancer coupe

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:

, 4= hard-ass streeter

When did you replace your suspension?:

2010
What did you replace it with?:

BC coilovers

How much?:

$1200

Where did you get it from?:

justjap

Spring rates?:

8kg Front / 6kg Rear

Damping settings?:

15 F setting/range, 10 R setting/range)

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
4= Handling is priority

Ride height you're running?:
1= speed bumps are out

How would you describe the handling now?:
4= flat, hard street weapon

Any downsides?:


Further comments:
6a13tt are better in coupes
 

steveP

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Steve
Drive
VR4 Galant
What is your ride?:
1998 Galant.

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:
3
= It's sports car.
I wanted to improve handling and to have full control over ride height.

When did you replace your suspension?:
Mid 2009. I still have them today and they still feel like new with no leaks or knocking.

What did you replace it with?:
ISC N1.

How much?:
$1500 at the time. They're now $1200 for a set.

Where did you get it from?:
http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/
Spring rates?:
10/6.

Damping settings?:
They're 32 bit adjustable. All the way on the softest setting was way too boaty and felt like stock. All the way on hard wasn't that bad. After a bit of fine tuning, about 7 clicks from the hardest setting worked best for front and rear.

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
3
= Firmer, with thunks.
I was preparing myself for a bit of a harsh ride when I got these coilovers, but to my surprise they were a lot more comfortable than I expected. They're only slightly more firm than stock, but way less body roll. I chose option 3 as that's how I would rate them in terms of firmness, but I don't get 'thunks'.

Ride height you're running?:
1
= speed bumps are out.
This really is a personal thing. I treat the gap between the tyre and wheel arch as my enemy. I doubt you'll find a lower VR4 than mine. However my car is a daily driver and I drive it everywhere. You just need to use common sense and angles for bumps and driveways. Angles are definitely your friend. Never go over a bump head on. However some times there are drains or driveways where I'm like 'no way' and avoid them. This is usually due to poorly designed driveways that most cars would struggle with. Stop pretending that only in your area are the worst roads in Australia. Stop being a pussy.

How would you describe the handling now?:
3
= sacrificed some ride for handling.
Definite improvement, but I don't think I've had to compromise much, especially with ride comfort. Because my car is so low, I've had to roll and trim the guards, but this is my doing, not the coilovers' fault. I would probably rate this 2.5

Any downsides?:
Like I said above, the downside is self induced due to wanting my car so low with wide wheels. I had to do a bit of guard work and ensure I chose the correct tyre size so I don't get tyres rubbing on the body of the car. In terms of noise or harshness, it's not an issue. Non car people get in my car and don't notice the slightly firmer ride. And car people are surprised when I tell them I have coilovers as the ride feels perfectly normal for a performance car.

Further comments:
About a year ago I replaced the top hats of the coilovers in the front. I could hear a knocking noise, but upon getting the coilovers checked, the mechanic said they were fine. I replaced the top hats for my piece of mind which cost $50 each. Ryan at ISC had them in stock and posted them directly to me. Since then I've had no noise from any of the coilovers. I think the noise was a combination of a few things. As of last year they were approx 4 years old with around 50,000 kms on them. I had also just gone through the saga of replacing the lower control arms that are defective. I put some eBay arms in as a temp fix and then got genuine arms. This meant a bit of mucking around with the front suspension that requires banging and twisting. Either way, it was a $100 fix and the coilovers feel like new and are now 5 years old.
 

tails

1 AYC Bar
Location
SA
First Name
Taylor
Drive
'00 Galant
What is your ride?:
2000 Galant

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:
3= It's sports car

When did you replace your suspension?:
Last year

What did you replace it with?:
ISC N1

How much?:
Around $1200 from memory

Where did you get it from?:

Driven Motorsport

Spring rates?:
10/6

Damping settings?:

32 point adjustable. Fronts are on 32, rears are about 26 or something.

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
3= Firmer, with thunks

I have no idea what a thunk is. The car is fairly bumpy, I can't remember what stock feels like.

Ride height you're running?:
2= diagonal speed bumps

How would you describe the handling now?:
3= sacrificed some ride for handling

Any downsides?:
A few creaks and small knocks, obviously the ride quality can be fairly shit on Adelaide roads.
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
What is your ride?:
1996, Galant

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:

2 and a bit of 3

When did you replace your suspension?:


What did you replace it with?:

had several, stock struts on lowered springs (unknown brand)= slightly lowered, comfy ride / kings springs matched to ralliarts=weird ride height / Bilstein+Tein Medium Springs= Stiffy lowered / ISC coilovers (8f & 6r)= comfy slight stiffy when adjusted

How much?:


1. came with car 2. $250 3. deal with a member 4. $800 I think

Where did you get it from?:

1. not sure 2. Bursons 3. WA member 4. SA (I think) member

Spring rates?:


1. unknown 2. unknown. 3. unknown. 4. 8f / 6r

Damping settings?:

4. 14f / 16r (need to adjust rear again)

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
2
Ride height you're running?:
3 leaning towards 4

How would you describe the handling now?:
3

Any downsides?:
Noisy, a bit of clunks, but i think its more due to my intercooler pipe works

Further comments:
DOOO EEEETTTTT!!!!!
 

it's.simon

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
SA
First Name
Simon
Drive
VR-4 Galant Type S
What is your ride?:
2001 Galant VR-4

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:
4: Hard ass streeter

When did you replace your suspension?:
2012

What did you replace it with?:
BC Racing BR

How much?:
$1300

Where did you get it from?:
JustJap

Spring rates?:
F: 10 R: 8

Damping settings?:
32-Way adjustable
F: 11 clicks from hardest R: 11 clicks from hardest

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
4
= Handling is priority (not really, being low and fitted was the priority)

Ride height you're running?:
1
= speed bumps are out
50mm from lowest point, challenge accepted SteveP haha.

How would you describe the handling now?:
4
= flat, hard stance car

Any downsides?:
Having separate rebound and compression would have been good. Can get this from BC Racing ER coilovers. Will help in the Adelaide hills as surfaces are shocking. Don't believe there are any downsides to getting coilovers as they are fully adjustable, can be as hardcore or compliant as you want.

Further comments:
Handling could be better, but is self induced because of the stanced direction I have chosen over outright handling peformance. Either way it has increased confidence and speed overall, even though I've gone the slightly unpractical fitment/ stance direction it is still easily driveable as my daily driver. Anyone who has run in the hills with me can also probably vouch that I can still run pretty quick. Coilovers are always nicely complimented with upgraded sway bars, will see a much greater improvement.

I would go 12/12 spring rates next time so I can run softer dampening settings.
 

Macca

Showing some Leg.
Location
Toowoomba, QLD.
First Name
Craig 'Macca' Mclean
Drive
2000 Mitsubishi Legnum Type S
What is your ride?:
2000 Legnum

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:
3= It's sports car

When did you replace your suspension?:

Mid 2010ish and still in great condition.

What did you replace it with?:

BC Racing BR Coilovers

How much?:
~$1200

Where did you get it from?:

eBay

Spring rates?:

F:10 R:8

Damping settings?:

F: 15 clicks from soft R: 20 clicks from soft

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
3= Firmer, with thunks

Ride height you're running?:
2.5= speed bumps ok-ish but driveways diagonal

How would you describe the handling now?:
3.5= flat, hard street weapon-ish

Any downsides?:
Not really, its pretty much how I like it. The coilovers are a great upgrade from stock plus you can set the height how you like it.

Further comments:
I also have upgraded Cusco sway bars front and rear as well as a rear tower brace and of course the front brace.
 

Akys

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
NSW
First Name
Alvin
Drive
1996 Trigger Mauve Galant VR4
What is your ride?:
1996 PFL Galant

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:

in betwwen 2= nice sport luxury& 3= It's sports car

When did you replace your suspension?:

2012

What did you replace it with?:

used Ralliart Suspension with damper control

How much?:

cant remember now. Less than $700 including postage i think

Where did you get it from?:

Forum member

Spring rates?:

Unknown

Damping settings?:

All set to 4. Only have 4 setting

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
2= Firm-ish, but well damped,

Ride height you're running?:
between 3= speed bumps ok but driveways diagonal, 4= bit lower than stock,

How would you describe the handling now?:
2= a definite upgrade from factory,

Any downsides?:
could do better. Its an upgrade but not my a lot. Getting spring to suit, apparently is a fairly hard task.

Further comments:
I would get something better if I have more money. But definitely improved the handling of the car. Also have cusco front sway bar fitted.
 

Xoxide

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
SA - North East
First Name
Reece
Drive
'98 Legnum
What is your ride?:
1998 FL Legnum (Dolphin Bodykit)

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:

Somewhere between 2 ( nice sport luxury ) and 3 ( It's sports car )

When did you replace your suspension?:

~4 weeks ago (March 2014)

What did you replace it with?:
A set of TEIN HA Coilovers

How much? / Where did you get it from?:
The TEINs were on the car when it was imported ~24 months ago, but were swapped out for factory springs to pass compliance/inspection.
This is the first time I've had them on the car since It's been in Australia.

Spring rates?:

Unknown

Damping settings?:

Non-adjustable - firm as fuck

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
Somewhere between 4 and 5... Definitely on the more aggressive end of the scale...
Rolling crests and dips are fine, but small bumps, pot holes and granulated surfaces are felt through the chassis harshly.
Mild spring rate / high damping slow valving? Not ideal for Adelaide roads.

Ride height you're running?:
2= diagonal speed bumps and mostly street parking - driveways are a no go. Only lowered slightly, but the huge Dolphin kit reduces the clearance dramatically.

How would you describe the handling now?:
The improvement to handling / cornering is the only reason I haven't ripped the brutal riding TEINs out and switched back to stock suspension..
It's gone from a boaty, stock 1 to easily a 4= flat, hard street weapon or 5= handling above all else, its an absolute weapon. Words cannot describe the difference It's made to the cornering abilities of the car... Body roll has been almost completely negated and the weight distribution while cornering is much more even. Traction has been improved dramatically and in turn the cornering and AYC characteristics are much more predictable and consistent.
I've actually found myself taking a hard left at an intersection aiming for the outside/far lane, only to have the AYC pull me into the inside lane because I'm still expecting understeer/roll. Definitely an adjustment as I've always driven cars with understeer characteristics.

Any downsides?:
WHAT WAS THE QUESTION? I CAN'T HEAR YOU, YOU'LL HAVE TO SPEAK UP! OH FUCK, WAS THAT A POT HOLE OR A DOG? IT SOUNDED PRETTY SOLID. IS THAT VIBRATING COMING FROM INSIDE OR OUTSIDE? I WONDER HOW SECURE MY BODYKIT IS, MAYBE I SHOULD ADD A FEW MORE ZIP TIES, JUST IN CASE.

Further comments:
Will probably look to sell the TEINs to someone with a track car / weekender and put the $ towards a slightly more street friendly, fully adjustable set.
 

NuffNuff

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Victoria
First Name
Damian
Drive
GTI, GTI, FL Manual Legnum VR4
What is your ride?:
Legnum VR4, 2001 auto
How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:
4
= hard-ass streeter
When did you replace your suspension?:
year and a half ago

What did you replace it with?:

BC BR fully adjustable coilovers
How much?:
$1200 in parts, $500 install (tie rod was stuffed too, including a alignment as well)

Where did you get it from?:

wasn't happy with the original install, took it to tyre power in reservoir and had them corner weight it. its amazing now. they did a fantastic job
Spring rates?:
8kg Front / 6kg Rear
Damping settings?:
(F19/30 setting/range, R22/30)

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
4
= Handling is priority

Ride height you're running?:
3
= speed bumps ok but driveways diagonal

How would you describe the handling now?:
4
= flat, hard street weapon

Any downsides?:
price i guess, once setup properly none they are fanstastic. i think its a waste of time unless corner weighted. the difference was like having a totally different car., i've had spring/shock combos on previous cars. i'll go coil overs again.

also its fkn loud inside over 80kph, that could be due to the bc br and tyres, ive never owned a quiet car so im not fussed. passengers complain sometimes but they are shown the door

Further comments:

the BR BR coil overs combined with the hankook RS3 tyres are brilliant, it corners flat and hard when pushed and you get the feed back of understeer when its starting to have enough. keeping your foot down so early in the turn is a weird feeling. but letting it up to the setup and AYC to deal with catapulting you out of the turn is the best way to go :D

i had it slammed on the coil overs at first, the drive shafts looked like they wouldnt cope like that for long so i raised it up with ease by myself and its had a few trips offroad down sheepyard flat for camping trips at speed
 

TME_Steve

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
NSW
First Name
Steve
Drive
2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
What is your ride?:
1999 legnum
How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:
4.5 hard Streeter track weapon
When did you replace your suspension?:
It came with most bushes replaced with urethane and Selby sway bars and light (evolution 9 bbs) wheels in 2010. Almost straight after I got it I strengthened the rear lower control arms as the stiff swaybars broke one of the end link mounts and I bought Bridgestone re001 tyres. Early 2011 I replaced the front four lower control arms. Can't remember when but I later got coil overs and by then I'd bent the bbs wheels and bought evolution 8 enkeis which were noticeably heavier. They came with ku31s that were ok in the dry but useless in the wet. These shortly got changed to Dunlop star spec z1s which were awesome.
What did you replace it with?:
See above but most of the urethane got reverted to factory rubber over the years. Urethane remains only on the rear upper control arms and swaybar d rubbers and front upper control arms in the camber kits. Also of note would be the engine mounts. Harder rubber side mounts and solid front and rear rollstops made it feel stiffer and more responsive. Camber kits on the front as far negative as possible and the rear upper arms were spaced out about 10mm to get as little rear negative as possible. The limit was rear toe adjustment was not able to be neutral beyond that. Ended up about 1.8 degrees negative front and about 1 degree rear from memory. Coilovers were bilstein but with 8kg front Springs. 6.3kg rear Springs. Oh and sayc rear diff.
How much?:
Not crazy money but I'd guess a few k all up. The coilovers i got second hand for about 500 but then I spent money on testing them and factory stuff and new Springs. Probably around the 1k mark for them.
Where did you get it from?:
All over the place
Spring rates?:
8kgFront / 6.3Rear linear rate
Damping settings?:
Not adjustable but the rates are on graphs here somewhere. ...
How would you describe the ride quality now?:
4
= Handling is priority,

Ride height you're running?:
3= speed bumps okish but driveways diagonal

How would you describe the handling now?:
4.5 handles and grips really well, quite taily actually. More taily than most would want.

Any downsides?:
I don't know that that's what vr4s are about. Yes it handled and gripped well, but it was still a heavy car.

Further comments:
 

it's.simon

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
SA
First Name
Simon
Drive
VR-4 Galant Type S
Just a note for nuffnuff in case people buy BC Racing coilovers and are mislead. They are not fully adjustable. Only 32 way (not 30) damper adjustable and independent height adjustable.
 

GLen20

Barring Up
Premium Member
Location
South Australia
First Name
Glenn
Drive
2002 Type S Galant, Ducati Streetfighter 848, 1971 2 Door LC Torana (in pieces)
So as OP, I have now been through the process of replacing my suspension and thought I would fill out my results.

What is your ride?:
2002 Galant

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:
2
= nice sport luxury

When did you replace your suspension?:

About 2 months ago

What did you replace it with?:
ISC N1 Coilovers

How much?:
$1200 + fitting

Where did you get it from?:

Website + Driven Motorsport

Spring rates?:

10kg Front / 8kg Rear

Damping settings?:

F22/32 Rear 17/32

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
4
= Handling is priority

Ride height you're running?:
3
= Speed bumps ok but driveways diagonal

How would you describe the handling now?:
4
= flat, hard street weapon

Any downsides?:
See below

Further comments:
The suspension has changed a lot from when first fitted. It seems like it has taken a good 6 weeks of daily driving for these units to really bed in and loosen up.
As I have discovered, coilovers really are a case of compromise.
Firstly, the handling now is absolutely awesome. I was running the worn Bilsteins with lowered springs that came with the car. They used to ride quite well for the same ride height I've got now, but loaded up, mid corner, the car used to "lean" really hard on the outside tyres and it felt a like the tyre was almost being peeled off the rim as the weight seemed to be over the top and outside of the contact patch.
Not anymore :)
When loaded up, it now feels like the tyres are being pushed flat, straight and hard into the tarmac and the weight of the car is right over the centre of the tyres.
Very very awesome and the feedback of any edge of grip level is coming back straight from the tyre itself. This gives really good confidence and consistency. You can feel exactly what's going on.

But, theres the compromise. The ride is average and unrefined. To be honest, the suspension feels a bit crude in its control as in something that maybe would go into a drift car….
On the damping side of things, to run a loose enough setting that gives a reasonable amount of absorption over small fast SHARP bumps (like when the road surface is patched or changes type) the initial part of the suspension stroke feels quite loose and good, but hit a sunken man hole cover or pot hole and BANG, keys and dash rattle.
Loosening the settings ever further gets to the point of not controlling the spring, think like a wooden spoon held by the handle on a bench while you flick the end…
Tighten up the damping and those big bumps are absorbed better and it doesn't smash the bump stops as regularly, but the smaller suspension movements are too tight for a refined ride, more road noise is transmitted into the cab and don't have a big milky breakfast cause it will get a good old shaking up on the run to work and might even want to come back up.
On the rebound side, I think the units are valved way too loose. Even when running the harder setting as above, recovery over long mound type bumps, tends to leave the car floaty for 2 or 3 oscillations.
I think other people had this floating issue when softer springs were picked (8/6.3) and harder spring rates were recommended to try to reduce this.

Maybe if I had gone with the softer springs, I could have run much harder damping (without it trying to destroy my kidneys) to absorb the big bumps, but the softer springs would give better ride over all the smaller stuff / small suspension movements.
I don't think with the 10/8 springs I will get the ride I want.
Would raising the ride height would give my suspension more range to work with and give the dampers more stroke to absorb the bumps? I'm not sure how it works with coilovers.

I have found that it takes a fair bit of fiddling to get it "tuned in" to where you want, with even one click making a difference either side of this sweet spot once you have found it.

I was hoping to get that nice well damped ride (thunk) you get out of a high performance Audi or BMW etc but also a reasonably high level of handling when you lean on it.

But what do I expect for $1200 bucks? OEM suspension has thousands of hours thrown at it.
If I had my time again, I would like to try the softer springs and see if I can get a more linear damping out of the shocks, but then I would probably miss the awesome flat handling. (Sway bars?)
I have bought KYB & Pedders (stock upgrade shocks) before for other cars and liked the way they damped the smaller ride bumps, but still absorbed those big pot holes without fuss.

When it comes to coilovers, the biggest lesson I've learnt is you get what you pay for.
If I wanted all of the above, I should have spent more and gone the higher spec units.
Could probably got better control over the initial part of the stroke + separate rebound control.

But overall, these units are reasonably good for what they are and they are really not expensive.
Watch how fast I can go round this corner now!
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
I should update mine...

What is your ride?:
1996, Galant

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:

2 and a bit of 3

When did you replace your suspension?:


What did you replace it with?:

had several, stock struts on lowered springs (unknown brand)= slightly lowered, comfy ride / kings springs matched to ralliarts=weird ride height / Bilstein+Tein Medium Springs= Stiffy lowered / ISC coilovers (8f & 6r)= comfy slight stiffy when adjusted

How much?:


1. came with car 2. $250 3. deal with a member 4. $800 I think

Where did you get it from?:

1. not sure 2. Bursons 3. WA member 4. SA (I think) member

Spring rates?:


1. unknown 2. unknown. 3. unknown. 4. 8f / 6r

Damping settings?:

4. 12f / 16r (still need to adjust rear)

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
2 for the front and 3 for the rear due to solid toe control arms


Ride height you're running?:
still 3 leaning towards 4

How would you describe the handling now?:
3

Any downsides?:
Initially I thought the clunking were from my intercooler piping but found it was the control arms (upper control arms)

rear control arms haven't been replaced.. may have just found an alternative to the solid rose joint based toe control arms

Further comments:
DOOO EEEETTTTT!!!!!
 

The_Giefster

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Syd, NSW
First Name
Ryan
Drive
Evo 5 + Motorbike
What is your ride?:
99 FL Legnum

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:

2= nice sport luxury

When did you replace your suspension?:

May 2014

What did you replace it with?:
ISC N1

How much?:
$1199 from website. But I got them a lot cheaper on Gumtree. New as well.

Where did you get it from?:

http://www.isccoilovers.com.au/isc-n1-mitsubishi-coilovers

Spring rates?:

10F/8R

Damping settings?:

15/32F/18/32R

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
3= Firmer, with thunks

Ride height you're running?:
3= speed bumps ok but driveways diagonal

How would you describe the handling now?:
3= sacrificed some ride for handling

Any downsides?:
Very noisy on big bumps.

Further comments:
Being a daily the aim for the car is to be a comfortable street cruiser. I have my Evo for handling and racing duties, which has a 10F/12R spring setup.
I initially wanted an 8/6kg setup, but could not find any at a good price. But these came up at a great price so I grabbed them. I'd say they are ok. On smooth roads and corners the car is great. It no longer has that gangster lean with the stock suspension on corners. But on roads with some undulation it can unsettle the car and make it bounce.
 

Bigfoot

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
South Australia
First Name
Kenny
Drive
Legnum
What is your ride?:
2001 Legnum

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:
4: Hard ass streeter

When did you replace your suspension?:
2014

What did you replace it with?:
BC Racing BR

How much?:
$1000

Where did you get it from?:
it's simon

Spring rates?:
F: 10 R: 8 (copied from simon)

Damping settings?:
32-Way adjustable
F: 11 clicks from hardest R: 11 clicks from hardest (copied from simon)

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
4= Handling is priority

Ride height you're running?:
2= diagonal speed bumps

How would you describe the handling now?:
3= sacrificed some ride for handling (until I tweak it to my needs)

Any downsides?:
Adelaide roads make it a fun experience testing out the new suspension and what I want from it. The ride quality changes daily.

Further comments:
 

6A13TT TYPE S

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
New Zealand
First Name
Adam
Drive
1999 Legnum VR4 Type S
What is your ride?:
(Model, year)

How would you describe what you were aiming for in your car?:

4-5 hard street with often track use

When did you replace your suspension?:

March 2011

What did you replace it with?:
Tein Super Wagon Type Flex

How much?:

$2000NZD new

Where did you get it from?:

Autolign (suspension shop around the corner from work)

Spring rates?:

(8kg / 5kg)

Damping settings?:

16way damper and rebound via knob ontop of each shock, soft for street hard for track.

How would you describe the ride quality now?:
2= Firm-ish, but well damped

Ride height you're running?:
4= bit lower than stock (343mm hub center to arch 340mm rear hub center to arch)

How would you describe the handling now?:
3= sacrificed some ride for handling
Any downsides?:
When the time comes to re-valve the shocks to have more aggressive damper rates for a more track orientated setup I will be getting 12kg/10kg springs, I also look forward to seeing how it handles with the front and rear LSD's, cusco sway bars, Front underbody brace and rear strut tower bar all working together as the last time the car was going it just had rear LSD, rear strut bar and the Teins
Any comments
The car has since stopped being my daily driver so I no longer have to worry about ripping the undercarriage to bits on Christchurch's earthquake damaged roads, hence why I am going to opt for a stiffer spring rate and lower ride height when I get enough cash to re-do the suspension.
 
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