WA Hello from WA

MattF

Crunching Gears
Location
Perth
First Name
Matt
Drive
1998 VR4 spec V manual
Greetings people I'm taking delivery of this 98 galant spec V manual on Friday:

http://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/Mitsubishi-Galant-1998/SSE-AD-3188195/?Cr=0

My supra TT was proving very hard to sell so I did a swap deal for this. Bit of a rough diamond but has lots of potential, just needs a bit of TLC.

Needs 1 or more wheel bearings (common problem I've read??)
Lash adjusters are noisy (also common on mitsis??)
Brake rotors probably need a skim or replacing...

Other than that no big plans for now just want to tidy up the sound system/immobiliser wiring, sort out spoiler holes, massage out dent in the back and so on. Once I've ironed out the glemlins I'll probably get a FMIC, exhaust and maybe big brakes and call it a day.

She drives like a beast though ;)
 

Everlongdrummer

Hesitantly Boosting
Location
Western Australia
First Name
Brett
Drive
R34 GTT
Hey there Matt, great to see another VR4 in Perth. A few more and maybe we can organise a cruise.

Your car has some good potential and you'll find these forums pretty helpful and friendly like I did.

I did all my wheel bearings recently. Usually the bearings come as a complete hub and don't need to be pressed either.

This forum will also have heaps of info about noise lash adjusters, search tool will be your friend here. :)

Welcome.
 

AKKO

2 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
WA
First Name
Chris
Drive
1998 Galant VR4 Type-V (Facelift)

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit

MattF

Crunching Gears
Location
Perth
First Name
Matt
Drive
1998 VR4 spec V manual
Thanks guys. I'll be sure to do some reading when I get chance. And yes I'll do the bearings myself so I'll be keen to get them soon, It's not a daily so I will have plenty of chance to tinker with it. I will have many more questions when I actually get the car (like what can I do with the factory satnav/TV screen most cars didn't have it optioned??)

Oh and my last Mitsubishi was my first ever car: A 1983 sigma ;)
 

MattF

Crunching Gears
Location
Perth
First Name
Matt
Drive
1998 VR4 spec V manual
So I took delivery today.
Feel free to ignore my ramblings.....

Some general observations compared to my wifes JZX90 mark II:

Every bit as fast, surprised at the speed actually, handling very similar (very sharp steering and nimble), feels a bit more compact.
Rear seat room is as good if not a little better. Boot is deeper due to no fuel tank in there.

Compared to my TT supra (now sold):

Not quite as fast but more fun on the street, more nimble. Getting the TT to spool the second turbo takes a lot of throttle.
Much more compact (not as wide)


And now stuff to be done:

Outside:

Massage out dents in back 1/4 panel and back door
Sort out front bumper. Needs undertray and crack fixing, flopping around at the moment
Front foggies have condensation inside. RHS one looks rusty/dirty??
Some wheel arch folds need bending back into place a little
Need to add various missing screws to skirts
Paint underneath with killrust. Some very minor spot rust in places

Inside:

Glue or replace main dash panel (cracked)
Maybe replace entertainment system (screen fucked anyway) with standard A/C unit. Also requires different dash panel
Remove fucken turbo timer!
Sort out various wiring shenanigans. Stereo install is fucked, H/U ok? Should try fit 6x9's in back shelf for some doof. Maybe amp?? TBC...
Replace alarm system with Viper maybe? Current one is shit.
New gear knob
New steering wheel
Try source high vis dash. (do I require S2 manual cluster???)
Tidy up boot trim, no jack tools

Engine bay/mechanical:

Wheel bearings! Replace, find out which ones are fucked
Lash adjusters noisey, replace or investigate fix?
Remove/replace plastic engine cover (rooted), could fab up aluminium one????
Rotors probably need replacing/skimming, bit of shudder
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
I've always had a soft spot for JZX90s. Especially the Cresta since it's the rarest and has reverse-slant sides on its grille (like the VR-4s actually)

Wheel bearings come pre-pressed into the hubs which are pretty easy to replace. If you don't replace the entire hub you need a press to deal with the bearing.
Lash adjusters are best replaced. If you have to pull everything apart you might as well put new ones in.
Original engine covers are all trashed now, some of us have replacements, some of us just don't care and leave them off.
Best brake upgrades for street use are just good slotted rotors and good pads.

All parts can be sourced through the guys in unclepaulie's intro template ^^^^^
 

MattF

Crunching Gears
Location
Perth
First Name
Matt
Drive
1998 VR4 spec V manual
Guys thanks again. I did search but couldn't find any lash adjuster suppliers on here. With that in mind are the fto ones the same part?

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/271646554526?nav=SEARCH

If not could anyone link a set? The Americans sell them cheap.

Also could anyone advise whether I'm better off replacing them or trying that proma MBL8 additive? I'm thinking for a little extra $ I might as well just replace with the big bore adjusters....
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
Guys thanks again. I did search but couldn't find any lash adjuster suppliers on here. With that in mind are the fto ones the same part?

http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/271646554526?nav=SEARCH

If not could anyone link a set? The Americans sell them cheap.

Also could anyone advise whether I'm better off replacing them or trying that proma MBL8 additive? I'm thinking for a little extra $ I might as well just replace with the big bore adjusters....

You might have been using different search terms - I think most of us call them lifters or tappets (ugh). Anyway, the 3000GT ones won't fit apparently. Don't bother with the MBL8 stuff. It quiets them down and makes everything seem nice but leaves a lot of residue with long term use.
 

MattF

Crunching Gears
Location
Perth
First Name
Matt
Drive
1998 VR4 spec V manual
Just wondering if it's worth replacing the inlet mani gasket and the cam cover rubber gaskets? Also the bolts holding the cam covers were fairly loose is that normal? And worth changing the hard rubber washers under those bolts? Any other work worth doing while I'm "in deep"? The plugs were done recently so that I can leave.

Again sorry if this has been covered 100000 times, probably not the best thread to ask technical questions...
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit
Just wondering if it's worth replacing the inlet mani gasket and the cam cover rubber gaskets? Also the bolts holding the cam covers were fairly loose is that normal? And worth changing the hard rubber washers under those bolts?

Yes to all gaskets and rubber washers. Torque spec on the rocker cover bolts is barely more than finger tight. Careful you don't crack the covers overtightening them.

Consider replacing your injector O-rings while you're mucking about in there.
 

MattF

Crunching Gears
Location
Perth
First Name
Matt
Drive
1998 VR4 spec V manual
Thanks mate I'm guessing mitsubishi is as good as anywhere for these parts?
 

MattF

Crunching Gears
Location
Perth
First Name
Matt
Drive
1998 VR4 spec V manual
Dumb question time. Some of the lifters hit on the cam lobes so I can't pull them out. What's the easiest way to turn the cams/crank? Just crank it a little with the starter? I tried to nudge it over with a socket on the cam gear but it just moved that 1 cam (slipped on the belt bad idea!).
 

whats_doing

QLD Events Manager
Location
QLD
First Name
Sam
Drive
98 PFL Black Legnum - SOLD
MY15 Hyosung GT650R
Take off the drivers side wheel.
There should be a little plastic square that you can remove.
Using a 1/2" drive extention and breaker bar, you can turn the harmonic balancer pulley which will turn the cams via the timing belt.
 

MattF

Crunching Gears
Location
Perth
First Name
Matt
Drive
1998 VR4 spec V manual
Thanks! Too easy... Any easy way to make sure the cams are lined up? After I cranked the 1 cam over and it slipped on the belt I'm not sure if it's right now... The TBelt was done recently and they marked the cam gears so I guess I'll try get it TDC?
 

jungle

3 AYC Bars
Lifetime Member
Location
QLD
First Name
Simon
Drive
1 PFL & 1 FL Legnum
Both cams have a "vertical line impressed" into the edge. Depending on the cars age, some are colored white, however most likely is the paint has faded and it's just the imprints left.
Look for the markings on the backing plate to align the cams once you have TOP Dead Centre.
 

MattF

Crunching Gears
Location
Perth
First Name
Matt
Drive
1998 VR4 spec V manual
Thanks again. :) I'll be sure to pay up so I can get into the tutorials page.
 

MattF

Crunching Gears
Location
Perth
First Name
Matt
Drive
1998 VR4 spec V manual
Lifters finished today. Can't believe how quiet it is! So smooth with just a faint tick tick tick. Thanks everyone for the assistance and answering my dumb questions.
 
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