VIC Hi all, new 1996 VR4 Galant here

[Fearlessmuffins]

Hi everyone, a lot of great knowledgeable people in this forum, have been searching for an answer for my problem but haven't been able to find it.

So to keep it short, I put the battery cables on the battery the wrong way around and blasted some fuses and the car doesn't start anymore and only cranks.

I found that the 100A fuse was blown which I replaced, and a 10A fuse as well which I also replaced. The electronics in the car all work well, cranks great, but doesn't start. I have added fresh fuel as it was low on fuel and I have tried jump starting it. It still doesn't start. There is a fresh fuel smell in the engine bay so I don't believe the fuel pump is broken, the timing belt is also new so I don't believe it's that either. It could be the sparks so I still need to check that. Are there any other ideas for why it may not start? I'm thinking the crank angle or camshaft sensor could be fried or maybe some of the relays. Would be great to hear any other ideas as the car was running amazing before I accidentally put the battery cables the wrong way around thanks in advance

 

[BCX]

Do you get a check engine light for a few seconds after turning key to 'ON'?

If yes, check for spark while cranking.

If yes, try unplugging MAF and starting.

Fresh smell of fuel in engine bay doesn't sound healthy regardless imo.

 

[Fearlessmuffins]

Do you get a check engine light for a few seconds after turning key to 'ON'?

If yes, check for spark while cranking.

If yes, try unplugging MAF and starting.

Fresh smell of fuel in engine bay doesn't sound healthy regardless imo.

No check engine light, only red battery light as well as a oil pressure light. Will try unplugging the MAF though, thanks for the advice

 

[6A13TT TYPE S]

Hate to say it but the ol' reverse polarity has likely barbequed something. Your likely in for a fair bit of electrical diagnoses to get this nut cracked

 

[mezje]

Hate to say it but the ol' reverse polarity has likely barbequed something. Your likely in for a fair bit of electrical diagnoses to get this nut cracked

Agreed, I did this once on my old swift sport track car and fried the ECU and ABS module.

Check for spark first and stop cranking with the fuel pump connected as you have probably well and truly flooded it now, hence the smell.

 

[Fearlessmuffins]

Agreed, I did this once on my old swift sport track car and fried the ECU and ABS module.

Check for spark first and stop cranking with the fuel pump connected as you have probably well and truly flooded it now, hence the smell.

Doesn't sound good at all then. Would an OBD scan find the problem? I believe it could be the ECU, I thankfully have a spare ECU but need to check for fried wires first before installing it to check if it works, thanks for the advice though hopefully I get this sorted soon on a side note I do see a yellow ABS signal on the dash when cranking which I thought was strange so maybe the module is fried?

 

[mezje]

Doesn't sound good at all then. Would an OBD scan find the problem? I believe it could be the ECU, I thankfully have a spare ECU but need to check for fried wires first before installing it to check if it works, thanks for the advice though hopefully I get this sorted soon on a side note I do see a yellow ABS signal on the dash when cranking which I thought was strange so maybe the module is fried?

I would be follwing BCX's instructions first.

It wouldn't hurt to check codes. The VR4 is NOT OBD2, rather Mitsubishi's own protocol MUT-II

Diagnostic codes list & how to read them (Check Engine Light)

Hey everyone, Thought I would share something I have developed over the last week. I have a Japanese copy of the the 6A13TT Galant/Legnum manual, and have been able to use Google Translator to determine what the codes for each flashing dash light will indicate when the car is in diagnostic...

www.ozvr4.com

 

[BCX]

The CEL comes on for a few seconds then usually turns off if no errors, or comes back on if there is an error logged.

No CEL would indicate the ECU has no power or is toast.

 

[BCX]

Will need to check wiring diagrams... but off the top of my head, check for power at OBD connector between pin 4 and pin 16. This should have 12v all the time.

 

[Fearlessmuffins]

Thanks for this, it'll come in handy for tomorrow when I'm scanning it

I would be follwing BCX's instructions first.

It wouldn't hurt to check codes. The VR4 is NOT OBD2, rather Mitsubishi's own protocol MUT-II

Diagnostic codes list & how to read them (Check Engine Light)

Hey everyone, Thought I would share something I have developed over the last week. I have a Japanese copy of the the 6A13TT Galant/Legnum manual, and have been able to use Google Translator to determine what the codes for each flashing dash light will indicate when the car is in diagnostic...

www.ozvr4.com

 

[Fearlessmuffins]

The CEL comes on for a few seconds then usually turns off if no errors, or comes back on if there is an error logged.

No CEL would indicate the ECU has no power or is toast.

Hmmm I think i remember seeing a CEL briefly when I put the car on "On" mode. However I do have a hunch that the problem may lie at the ECU

 

[Fearlessmuffins]

Will need to check wiring diagrams... but off the top of my head, check for power at OBD connector between pin 4 and pin 16. This should have 12v all the time.

Okay bit of an update. Had an auto electrician look at the car. Wiring and fuses/relays are all good which is nice to know. Spark isn't getting power though. It sparks with power but just not getting power from ecu. Bloke said it was likely something to do with the ECU. Looked at everything else and the spark plugs were the only problem with the car, so gonna give the ECU a look tomorrow and see if my spare one works