Legnum stereo install

[MasqUAP]

Hey all,

Since I've finally got my car I'm starting my stereo install as it's been sitting in my extention for nearly 2 months waiting

So far the rear speakers and headunit are the only things installed, more will be coming this weekend (including both amps being installed, and a whole lot of wiring!)

FYI apart from the tweeters (because they're huge) I'm aiming for a *very* factory look, so speakers will be behind door covers, amps will be under seats, all wiring under the carpet etc.

Rears are Polk DB 6.5" 2 way, front are Polk DB 6.5" Splits, amp running them is a JVC 4 x 65w RMS, headunit is Panasonic (I only wanted USB, don't need anything more fancy than that), sub will be an Orion 10" at this stage (Just got rid of 2x 12" Alpine Type S subs as they were complete overkill), perhaps going to a second later, with an Alpine V-Power 350w RMS monoblock to run it.

Eventually I'll add one of those EBay Chinese single DIN screens running IGo8 (Unless Joe gets something decent for a good price) and use it for nav / video in for when the XBox 1 gets mounted in there

Rears being installed:

 

[MasqUAP]

Reserved

 

[MasqUAP]

Reserved.

 

[Joe Bellissimo]

Hahaha, I'm working on it, the Optima Group Buy is taking my time at the moment, sorry bout the huge delay.

 

[Guest]

Hey dave.
Am happy to help with your install.
Thumbs up with the polk speakers.
JVC amp will have to do now that you got it but shame at that.
Go and buy for a few bucks some foam sound proofing at a hardware store. Sticky on one side so you just cut it and stick it to the inside of the door skin.
Will make the sound heaps nicer.
Then grab some MDF 12mm wood and cut some spacers out and throw those white plastic spacers in the bin.
Make sure that cabeling is power far away from the RCA's and never crossing over to avoid magnetic loops.
Also if you got splits for the front make sure you place the crossovers under the seat or under the dash and not in the door as they can get damaged with slamming of doors.
Spend a few extra bucks on cabels but if you do the things I mentioned even a crappy JVC amp can make some decent sound.

 

[Poita]

I would agree that deadening is a great idea! I used 3mm MDF to seal all the service holes as well to make as airtight a box out of the doors as I could. Helps the midbass quite a bit.

I would NOT use the Jaycar or cheap hardware deadening though. 1st 35deg day with your car out in the sun and the glue gives up and it all slides down the door. I would recommend Stinger Roadkill or Dynamat only. Stinger is slightly cheaper and what I used. It's been on there 4 years now and hasn't shifted.

 

[yoshimitsu9]

I would agree that deadening is a great idea! I used 3mm MDF to seal all the service holes as well to make as airtight a box out of the doors as I could. Helps the midbass quite a bit.

I would NOT use the Jaycar or cheap hardware deadening though. 1st 35deg day with your car out in the sun and the glue gives up and it all slides down the door. I would recommend Stinger Roadkill or Dynamat only. Stinger is slightly cheaper and what I used. It's been on there 4 years now and hasn't shifted.

if you dont want to spend big $$$ on dyna mat, use the tar/rubber type stuff with the foil backing for temporary plumbing repairs found at bunnings. apply it and heat it up a little with a hair dryer so it bonds more permenantly. it works a treat.

my dad worked on the production line at datsun some 20 years ago and he reckons its basically the exact same stuff they used for sound deadening on the floor pan of the cars