QLD New member intro aswell as some quick urgent questions

Connor_VR4_yzfR1

Idling at the Lights
Location
qld
First Name
Connor
Drive
1990 VR4
Hey guys,
Im new the forum but have owned my 1990 vr4 for about 7 months now.
Its the 1990 4g63T DOHC all wheel drive all wheel steer model. (as for GS, GLS ect im not sure exactly, i know its a E39A but not exactly sure what badge it is :)
its pretty standard at the moment except for the G4 coilovers and Rays engineering wheels, well Ray moch wheels anyway, theyre not genuine.
how it sits is pretty much how i bought it except for the few things i had to do for a road worthy.

current mods and work i have done include

aftermarket intercooler
G4 coilovers
Rays engineering (non genuine) wheels
^^^ these three things were n it when i bought it.

since then i have machined the exhaust manifold, turbo and dump pipe
new MLS exhaust gasket
turbosmart duel stage boost cntroller
braided stainless fuel line with anodized alloy connectors (my standard fuel line burst)
i have a aftermarket hybrid turbo which isnt installed yet as i need to fix the dump pipe for it as the actuator has been welded closed for some reason :/
thats it so far really, ill keep this thread updated as i do more things.

as for my urgent question.
i got some new tyres put on today and discovered that
A. i need new outer cv shaft boots as the bottom of my coilovers has chewed through the rubber on the front ones :/
and
B. i desperately need some new front wheel bearings ): luckily i noticed it when i did.
first of all does anyone know how hard these are to change over and is there anything i need to be aware of when changing them on this car?
secondly does anyway know where i can get some new wheel bearings? i called repco but im hoping to find some for less than $100 for each side.

thats all i can really think of for now, i know most of you guys have the newer VR4's but who doesnt love the old school ones :)

ill post some pictures as a comment as theyre not on my laptop.
thanks guys
 

Unco_Tomato

Leaving Skid Marks
Lifetime Member
Location
Avalon, NSW
First Name
Matt
Drive
1996 White Manual Legnum w/ FL Kit
$100 per side isn't too bad for a rare car, I'm not exactly sure what the model number is for them.
 

Connor_VR4_yzfR1

Idling at the Lights
Location
qld
First Name
Connor
Drive
1990 VR4
yeah $100 isnt bad, im just kinda stretched for cash at the moment.
but thanks mate, i will message him in a minute.

here are some photos guys, (without my number plate haha :)

1.jpg
4.jpg
5.jpg
 

96vr4

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
WA
First Name
AJ
Drive
Legnum with twin GT25R upgrade.
Nice VR4 mate, love the older ones :)
 

Connor_VR4_yzfR1

Idling at the Lights
Location
qld
First Name
Connor
Drive
1990 VR4
Thanks guys :)

Yeah I love the older ones, they're rare too which make them more interesting and awesome haha :)

Sent from my C6903 using Tapatalk
 

mookers

puri puri
Location
Frankston, Melbourne, VIC
First Name
Derek
Drive
CL9 Accord Euro Lux, GE Jazz VTi, Evil Supervillain Chair, Homemade Portable Square Drumkit

GMan

1 AYC Bar
Location
NSW
First Name
Jet
Drive
2000 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4
Welcome! I prefer the newer cars, but that looks like a very good example of an older one.
 

Connor_VR4_yzfR1

Idling at the Lights
Location
qld
First Name
Connor
Drive
1990 VR4
Thanks guys :)
some of those thread links are very helpful, ill have a read through them tonight.

there is a small question i have for now though, and this is the fact that i put a turbosmart duel stage boost controller (manual, not electric) in and removed the stock controller that sits on the airbox, however im not sure why but from time to time, generally when it isnt as warm as it wants to be even though its sitting in the middle warm section of the temp gauge and is at halfway, it goes into limp mode and wont let the pressure through the system to hit boost.
so i was thinking and someone from one of the vr4 pages on facebook suggested that i run the stock controller aswell as my duel stage, however im slightly unsure how to run that,

here is a picture
boost lines.jpg


Now, the blue arrow points to the line coming from my duel stage controller
the red represents the line that leads down to the actuator and also what i cant quite see but think is the blow off valve (my BOV is standard to not attract too much unwanted attention lol)
and the white arrow represents the line coming from the inside of the airbox.

so my question is
which line do i cut to run through the stock controller, ow which lines should be re routed to pass through the stock one.

thanks guys
 
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