Work Equip Refurbish

[tails]

I picked up some old Work Equip Anhelos for a good price that I'm going to fix up. Sizes are as follows;

Front: 17x8 +32
Rear: 17x9 +33

This is how they looked one I bought them (after I had the tyres removed anyway)

I spent today just pulling them apart so they currently sit like this

 

[tails]

The part of the refurb I was dreading the most was restoring the assembly bolts. They had plastidip on them, so I didn't have much of an idea as to what they were going to look like underneath.

Today I pulled the plastidip off a couple of the bolts to check it out and this is how they were like, with no polishing except for wiping it on my tshirt

So I was pretty happy to find how the bolts were. I might just get some jewelry polish to give them a really bright finish.

Tomorrow I'm hoping to get a drill or grinder to the barrels with a wire brush head to get rid of all the silicone and crap. The inside of the barrels are also pretty pitted, so they'll need a sand down as well.

I plan on having the centres and lips powder coated. I'm leaning towards a matte bronze/brown that the Meisters come in much like this (photo is of SSR Professors);

 

[Gt_Galant]

Looking good so far, when you reckon you'll have them ready to put on the car ?
Bronze is a nice choice.

 

[tails]

Probably a month or so and they'll be ready to reassemble.

 

[Guest]

Will the offset sizes cause any problems for your diff or transfer?

I hope not because those look bad ass.

Sent from the fires of Mt Doom

 

[trotty]

As long as the rolling diameter doesn't change, otherwise you can prematurely wear the centre diff as the front an rears are constantly fighting each other.

 

[tails]

I'm running the same tyres on all four. The change in diameter caused by the stretch on the rear wheels will only be marginal.

 

[tails]

Not a whole lot done today, experimented with a few things.

Cleaned the inside of the barrels with some de-greaser and wheel cleaner so I could handle them without getting dirty hands.

Had a crack at stripping the silicone off one of the barrels using a drill and wire brush attachment. I only did one wheel as I'm waiting to hear back from a powdercoater on the extra cost of getting the barrels done as well. If it's on a per wheel basis (ie. lip and center costs same as lip, center and barrel) I'll just get them to sandblast and coat the lot. Saves me doing shitty jobs like this.

Anyway, before and after photo:

I also grabbed some metal polish and started polishing the bolts, I started late in the day so only got through a couple dozen
Before and after:

Only about 100 more of them to go!

Depending on what the powdercoater says, the bulk of my work may just be polishing the bolts and removing the heavy curb rash.

 

[Size1]

Do you have a bench grinder. If you do you can put buffing/polishing pads on a special spindle. It will save you loads of time.

 

[tails]

Do you have a bench grinder. If you do you can put buffing/polishing pads on a special spindle. It will save you loads of time.

Nope, I live in a first floor apartment, so I'm doing all this on my balcony.

For polishing I chucked the bolt in a drill and held a polishing cloth to it. I might grab a polishing pad for the drill though.

 

[tails]

Not much to update this with atm, still polishing bolts when I get the chance. But I managed to get a moment to get all the old silicone off the wheels. This is how they currently stand

I'm going to sand them down up to about 400grit as I'm then getting them sand blasted. Sanding is mainly to fix some of the rash and clean them up a bit better so there's less work for the powdercoaters.

 

[Jonson]

What was the deal with the silicon? were they leaking air inbetween the pieces?

 

[tails]

After you bolt three piece wheels up, you gotta run a line or two of silicone along the join to stop air leaking out. Danny just used a lot of silicone!

 

[it's.simon]

Is that standard practice on three piece wheels?

 

[tails]

Everything I've read thus far suggests it is. All the tutorials and videos show people cutting silicone to strip them and reapplying it afterwards.

Eg. http://www.stanceworks.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26614

Mine our a little bit different than those, I need two lines or one thicker line of silicone as the center is clamped between the lip and barrel as opposed to in front of the lip and barrel, so there's two joins under the tyre.

Metal on metal doesn't seal very well, especially for air unless there's a gasket or seal of some sort.

 

[tails]

Wet rubbed the pitting out of the barrels today, the rest will be taken care of by the sand blast.

Before

After

 

[douwboy]

These are going to look tops when finished.

 

[tails]

Dropping these off at the powdercoaters this week. I expect to get them back late in the week, or early next week.

I decided to go for satin (as opposed to matte or gloss) black instead of brown/bronze. Centers and all, with polished bolts. I figured the bronze might be a bit of a risk with colour matching and I didn't want to get stuck with a really bright bronze as I don't particularly like that.

 

[niterida]

I'm no expert but all the 3 piece rims I have dealt with have the two rim halves bolted together and then the centre is bolted on either in front or behind the rim join.

In otherwords I'm pretty sure the centre doesn't go between the two rim halves.

Have you trialled fitted them yet - I am looking at a set of rims now with the same size - 17x8 +32 - but was concerned they would stick out too far.

 

[VOLK]

Quick google image search tells me the centre sits between the barrels for Anhelos. Flat centre lip may also accomodate reverse mount.

Depends on the wheel and manufacturer i.e. the centre lip for a vs-xx can be front mounted only.

Thread that's discussed fitment to death is here