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Paul I set steel reinforcings in the hinged areas and in the bonnet latches. I have not made a boot yet but I would say I'd be doing the same on those.
I do not skin over oem bonnets, I make them completely out of fiberglass.
a few AU members have some of my older style bonnets like top stages ones . I don't think anyone would buy a skinned bonnet as it would Eelam on the first flex and simply fall off
Craig, I'm with you in the idea, um first.y would you be willing to chop your dash up under where the clock sits? Or would anyone for that matter?
this will help me determin the next part of the process, just know the original clock can still be put in and will cover the damage
I do not skin over oem bonnets, I make them completely out of fiberglass.
a few AU members have some of my older style bonnets like top stages ones . I don't think anyone would buy a skinned bonnet as it would Eelam on the first flex and simply fall off
Craig, I'm with you in the idea, um first.y would you be willing to chop your dash up under where the clock sits? Or would anyone for that matter?
this will help me determin the next part of the process, just know the original clock can still be put in and will cover the damage
Macca
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I know its not very flexible of me but I wouldn't be keen to cut my dash up. I'm keen to see what you come up with Q.
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I'm going to start today on this new idea for clock pod and see what I can come up with
Macca
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Great, I look forward to seeing what you come up with Q. I might finally be able to mount the gauges I've had sitting around for six months.
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I'm just waiting for my molding clay to arrive and I'll be starting..
Pis it important that the gauges face the driver and not square with the rest of the setup?
I may also be able to mount digital gauges into your high viz dash as well ok, but this is a while off testing tho, clock first
Pis it important that the gauges face the driver and not square with the rest of the setup?
I may also be able to mount digital gauges into your high viz dash as well ok, but this is a while off testing tho, clock first
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Angled would be better, but if it can't be done, then I'm sure square would be fine.
Macca
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What Joel said. I'm pretty sure it'll be difficult for you to get them facing the driver so even if they are just straight, thats all good with me.
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And now I can breathe easy..
Lol just I case..
just feel angled would make the dash look messy that's all
Lol just I case..
just feel angled would make the dash look messy that's all
Macca
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Yeah I tend to agree. I prefer things to be symmetrical so having them pointing straight ahead wouldn't be a bad thing.
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Ok so here we go...
a few items to mind crunch on..
comments and criticism are more than welcome..
Firstly the renowned clock gauges issue..
as you can see here is the dash with a cover I made and a few empty 2" shells to sample
Take note of the size of the gushes in comparison to the clock, so flush is not going to work.
And here's with the gauges roughly laying in so you can get an idea of what's what
land now 3 pyramid style, again just layn there ok.
Ok so as you can see its very tight, and the goal is as low as possible so the journey starts!!!
But now I have my "Digital" route to add as well.
this is just a rough mockup wich I can alter and change the layout as requested..
So as you can see digital WILL work but unfortunately it's not everyone's cup of tea tho...
but it's the route I'm taking..
Here is now my gauges mounted into a speedo cluster, again just roughly so it's not the final layout. Itll have labeling and a tint screen over the top to stop glare and match the rest..
the final product I will have look like its ment to be there.
iv gone with 4 gauges and only 3 fitted ATM the water temp is below the water guage, oil temp above, boost replaces AYC as I do not use AYC and oil pressure will come, not sure where yet tho but plenty of time.
please let me know what you think guys...
the digi gauges I dismantled the screen from the boards and made them remote. So the brains can be hidden away out of sight..
a few items to mind crunch on..
comments and criticism are more than welcome..
Firstly the renowned clock gauges issue..
as you can see here is the dash with a cover I made and a few empty 2" shells to sample
Take note of the size of the gushes in comparison to the clock, so flush is not going to work.
And here's with the gauges roughly laying in so you can get an idea of what's what
land now 3 pyramid style, again just layn there ok.
Ok so as you can see its very tight, and the goal is as low as possible so the journey starts!!!
But now I have my "Digital" route to add as well.
this is just a rough mockup wich I can alter and change the layout as requested..
So as you can see digital WILL work but unfortunately it's not everyone's cup of tea tho...
but it's the route I'm taking..
Here is now my gauges mounted into a speedo cluster, again just roughly so it's not the final layout. Itll have labeling and a tint screen over the top to stop glare and match the rest..
the final product I will have look like its ment to be there.
iv gone with 4 gauges and only 3 fitted ATM the water temp is below the water guage, oil temp above, boost replaces AYC as I do not use AYC and oil pressure will come, not sure where yet tho but plenty of time.
please let me know what you think guys...
the digi gauges I dismantled the screen from the boards and made them remote. So the brains can be hidden away out of sight..
Macca
Showing some Leg.
It looks like if you gave it a bit of a hood and extended it forward a little, all three gauges would fit side by side.
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- Steve
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- 2010 nt did pajero tow car / 2000 6spd gc8 wrx tarmac rally car / 2000 Manual Subaru Outback 2.5 just a car
How much do you think these guards would be? And id have mine with flares as im not about to delete my rear flares.... you could probably sell both styles....
Front guards would be great to get say 9-9.5 +30 fitting perfectly all round. be nice to see a VR4 running 255 on a 9 +25-30 ish without silly camber. be even nicer to own it!
Front guards would be great to get say 9-9.5 +30 fitting perfectly all round. be nice to see a VR4 running 255 on a 9 +25-30 ish without silly camber. be even nicer to own it!
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Craig, yes think we can do something like that but the hood I think would suit the pyramid so I can imitate the speedo hood to keep symmetrical if you know what I mean!
Tim, yes it is, it lives in my shop and I'm responsible for its maintenance and bodywork,thanx
Steve,I agree with you but again the amount of interest in guards with fl flares molded and still visible has to be 6+ with confirmed payments.
I would be looking at running that size you mentioned on my ute but at that we will need to cutout my rear arches to fit,correct?
Tim, yes it is, it lives in my shop and I'm responsible for its maintenance and bodywork,thanx
Steve,I agree with you but again the amount of interest in guards with fl flares molded and still visible has to be 6+ with confirmed payments.
I would be looking at running that size you mentioned on my ute but at that we will need to cutout my rear arches to fit,correct?
SLY-031
Leaving Skid Marks
Three side by side.
Bring them 25mm further forward from where you have them, and give it a neat hat/cover/whateveryouwanttocallit.
For the base, I'd run it the whole way up to the edge of the cut out area if you get what i mean.
This may be a good starting point?
http://xracing.com.au/car-accessories/universal-3-gauge-holder/
What I am suggesting is a cross between these two:
Bring them 25mm further forward from where you have them, and give it a neat hat/cover/whateveryouwanttocallit.
For the base, I'd run it the whole way up to the edge of the cut out area if you get what i mean.
This may be a good starting point?
http://xracing.com.au/car-accessories/universal-3-gauge-holder/
What I am suggesting is a cross between these two:
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