Best Way To Get A Legnum in WA

[illuzian]

Hey Guys,

I was wandering if I could get some advice on the best way to get a Legnum in Perth. It seems importing a Legnum/Galant yourself seems more expensive than buying one already in AU but in WA they seem a bit rare.

Basically I want to know what to look for, what is a decent millage, what I could expect to pay(if a bargain requires patience I'm sure I can dig deep) and what to look for.

I've spoken to kyp over here to see if he can give me some quotes but would anyone recommend anyone else? Theres a leggy for about 13990 at a car yard but but its done 114000KM which seems a bit steep?

 

[bradc]

There are a few rare combo's that people pay more for, for example black, sunroof, recaro's, manual.

If you just want a standard car and are ok with a more common colour such as white or purple, then $14k is a bit too much. There are a few for sale on here at the moment from members which are always a good option as you know some of the history of the car.

 

[TomTom]

Hi,

there is one more Leggi in WA on carsales.com.au at the moment:

http://carsales.com.au/all-cars/dealer/details.aspx?R=6553348&__Qpb=true&Cr=1&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_Price_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__N=1216%201247%201282%201252%201246%204294964597%204294966725%20904&silo=1011&seot=0&__Nne=15&trecs=4&__sid=11C90412674B

I recon $16,990 is a bit too much - furtermore those rims look disgusting. I paid for exactly the same model $16,000 with 42,000km in an excellent condition!

If you're going to buy one there are in my opinion 2 important things you should keep an eye on - mileage and hydraulic valve lifters. Just a few thousand kilometers to 90,000km, be aware you have to change the cam belt soon... which is not a bargain. Has the Leggi 110,000km make sure the cam belt has been replaced!
And if the pre-owner uses the wrong (thin) oil the hydraulic valve lifters may be a bit noisy (you will hear a tapping noise while the engine is idling).
I know a lot of you guys use 0W30, quiet a nice oil, but not for the Mitsu 2.5 V6! Ralliart Germany recommends a 10W40 or 15W50 (depends on mileage and condition of the engine) full synthetic.

My last VR-4 was a 2000 Galant with a mileage of 185,000km - never had any probs with my first love ;-) Now someone in Poland is cruising it because I had to sold it before coming to Australia for (converting to AUD) $7,900 :-(

Still pisses me off ! :bigsmile::bigsmile::bigsmile:

The Galant on carsales was imported by Melville Car Imports... but he is in a really bad condition! There is one more importer in South Freo, but I think the other guys will be a bigger help to get an address!

Cheers Tom

 

[Guest]

Could ask Rhys (HJ 61 WA) if he is still interested in selling?

 

[illuzian]

If the car hasn't been completely hammered how strong are the turbos? should I be expecting to replace one soon with a millage between 80-120k (this car will be commuting to and from work about 60ks a day) Would be a good idea to get the timing belt changed at around 90k is it hasn't already been done?

Has anyone had any bad experiences with the cars? And should I get one of the guys from here to take a look at it or should I just get it expected by Paceway's or something?

Also hypothetically with HJ 61 WA's Leggy how hard would it be to get the manual dash and get that installed? (DIY?)

Edit: Btw thanks for you replies so far guys

 

[Clown]

there's always South freo auto imports...dodgey lookin place but nice guy..and he had about half a dozen last time I was there.. he usually has an add in the auto trader

or...
Address: 29 Strang St, South Fremantle, WA, 6162
Phone Number: (08) 94331097

 

[Guest]

South Freo send their cars all ova the place, i saw that one with the horrendous tri-spoke rims in a car yard in rockingham a few days ago - pretty sure the sticker said 14999, i could be wrong tho - 1st stop would be rhys' manual tho imo.

 

[bradc]

The turbo's rarely die. If you are after an auto, you biggest problem will be when the gearbox dies. Other than that they are quite reliable cars.

 

[bogan bob]

You could have a chat to a few import brokers - in WA you have prestige motorsport if you want to go local or you could use one of the site sponsors in Iron chef imports or j-spec, both of whom i can vouch offer excellent services.

 

[illuzian]

Thanks again for the help and info guys

Looking into Rhys' manual as long as I get finance but as an alternatively what are peoples opinions of Freo Auto? Cars generally in a good state?

Also would you guys recommend auto or manual I def want AYC etc.. but im regards to the autos are they generally pretty strong or are they gonna just be something I wish I never had?

 

[bradc]

The auto's break regularly due to a variety of reasons. I wouldn't buy one.

 

[illuzian]

So hypothetically a manual should last quite some time apart from general maintenance right?

 

[bradc]

Basically yes

 

[Mortz]

Expect to pay more for manual, especially if it's a Galant. And black will probably be a no go. And if you do end up gettin an auto, make SURE that the oil is clean upon purchase and don't buy if the seller cannot guarantee that the autobox has always had SPIII trans fluid. Give it a nice long drive and make sure there the box feels smooth and changes nicely in tiptronic and normal auto.
Search the forums and you can see some good ideas for things to look at when buying a VR4 and check out www.clubvr4.com for great info and a buyers guide (i think). Good luck picking out your Leggy/Galant.

 

[illuzian]

Thanks again guys(and brews ) Most helpful bunch of guys ever definately hope I can join in on a cruise oneday

Whose the go for inspection of a vehicle? Local Ralliart Mitsu? Definately put off Autos at the moment problem is im going to look like a douche if I test drive a manual since i've been driving an auto for about 3 years lol....

Also nobody has an opinion on freo auto imports?

 

[Mortz]

Tell the owner you haven't driven a manual in a while and ask if they can give it a drive. If they want to sell it they will. Just watch them carefully and watch what the car is doing. Maybe bring a mate for a 2nd opinion and a drive if they can use a manual. Nothing wrong with giving the car a really good look over before handing over your hard earned dosh, thats for sure.
I got mine checked at a RACQ related workshop. Make sure to ask them to check for any common issues, or things you may have been concerned about in the test drive as VR4's are a rarity for them. If there are big issues just walk away, get another one to look at. If there are small issues such as brakes need changing negotiate some off the price.
Check some other Oz forums for imports like silvias etc and you might find more info on Freo imports, can't help ya there, but check out some of the importers like iron chef on the forums if you want. Can get some great deals if you look on VR4's at the moment, it's a buyers market for sure.

 

[VR4 WRC]

If there is a car for sale at a car yard here in W.A., chances are Phil has done the compliance on it. He is the W.A. man.

He is at Phil's Mechanical Services
U3/ 6 Elmsfield Rd
Midvale WA 6056
(08) 9250 3069

I am not sure if he is closed over the break but give him a call. He might know about the car you are looking at.

Take your time looking at them. If you see one you like, get it checked out. Don't pay to have each one looked at.

Auto's are more common around, but look for any leaks from the transmission between it and the engine.

Cheers and good luck

Scott

 

[SiliconAngel]

On the reliability thing, being as you're probably looking at cars that are at least 10 years old, there are NEVER any guarantees. You have no way of knowing how the car's been driven or treated. So expect to spend some not insignificant cash just on servicing in the first six months. Personally I've spent over $2k servicing my car and replacing the clutch, and that's with a zero labour component as I did all the work myself.

The Autos need regular maintenance or they'll break. Torque converter seals are the most common fault in VR4's and there's not much you can do about it. If you get it replaced, ALWAYS do the rear main at the same time.

Manuals suffer from a weak clutch - a few hard launches and you'll kill the stock unit in short order. Mine let go after just six days of fairly restrained driving - it was just worn out. They're easily replaceable with an Evo clutch or Exedy HD kit, however.

Things I'd be more concerned about are the AYC diff & pump (shouldn't make any noise - if they do either the pump is damaged or (more common) there's air in the system (quite possibly because the fluid hasn't been changed and it's knackered). Also heater cores are a bitch (and quite expensive, especially if you're paying someone else) to replace - I know the heater's the last thing you'd think to check in this weather, but it will be more than worth your while. If it has a problem either it won't heat up or you'll get coolant leaking under the dash.

Busted gears are uncommon, but also expensive to repair. Stock brake rotors are relatively weak and are known to warp with abuse (fairly easy in a VR4), but they're easy to replace and parts are relatively cheap.

Check service history if available - if the car's close to 100,000kms, then cam belt needs to be done. If you need to do this yourself replace pulleys, tensioner and water pump at the same time.

On the topic of parts, unless you're upgrading with aftermarket items, all your stock components should be sourced directly from Japan or Ralliart NZ - Mitsubishi Australia will charge two to three times as much for exactly the same item and it will take three to six weeks, instead of three to five days.

 

[Guest]

actually.. every part i've got from mitsi australia has been in stock in perth, except the timing belt which came from over east in 2 days.