Bye bye rear diff...

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
Well it carked it. Not completely but im scared to drive it the way it sounds haha :p its a really rough exhaust sounding grinding tapping noise. Ill try upload a sound clip when my phone decides to work... also decelerating a higher pitched tinging soundling rattle... which couldnt be recorded. Put it up on the hoist at redcliffe dyno and they had a fiddle and even ran it on the hoist, and could pretty easily show me where the noise was happening... mmmmm doesnt look good.

Anyway im thinking of trying to source a s-ayc diff cause why would i just put another stocker on there... my philosophy is if something shits itself, go the next one up...

Anyone know if this is a wise move or if it would be a shitload cheaper for rebuilding / paying someone to find out what the problem could possibly be? or should i just replace the damn thing...

Im kinda annoyed but it was bound to happen. i've just passed 100k kms too...
 
G

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Unregistered
take it apart first, imo

see what needs doing
i fixed mine for $100,

why fork out $1500 or so for a S-AYC diff if you could fix it cheaply??

that said if its completely poked and you have to get a replacement, yes spend the cash on a S-AYC, theres only a few hundred in price diff between the to (thru wreckers)

oh and S-AYC is evo 8 and 9, not the 7 it only has normal ayc
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
lol im not really technical enough to take it apart myself.. how much would labour cost to do something like that
 
G

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Unregistered
its a a couple of hours worth to take it out and open it up,

but yeh if you cant DIY it will cost you a bit.

none of the oz boys close enough to help you out??
its a semi simple job to pull out,
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
is there a guide somewhere? even a brief one... would be a good one for me to make haha :D i wouldnt mind trying it myself but is it messy (dads a freak when it comes to oil spills in the garage/driveway) and what tools would i need.. i have a jack, 2 stands, and pretty much everything else i can imagine id need... christian said i need to take out like all the shafts and stuff, disconnect the ayc pumps, something like that.... sounds scary lol
 
G

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Unregistered
yes the shafts are easy,
even the pump dissocnnction is easy (its only 2 bolts)

i did it with a socket set, ring spanners, a trolly jack and axel stands,
pretty basic tools imo

a couple of the bolts are a PITA to get to but not a major.

no guide for it im sorry, but if you could find one for a evo 4-6 its 99% the same,
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
k.. roughly how many hours if i do do it myself? dads hounding me about the garage already saying 'id rather you just payed the labour to have it done properly you're not qualified blah blah blah'
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
2 hours out
2-3 hours back in (inc filling fluids)
(taking it easy)

then theres parts, or new diff,
oil + ayc flush/fill/bleed

so it cost your upto 1.5k-2k tops at a garage if you need a new diff

mine needed a new pinion wheel, (sourced the part myself and DIY'd the lot, $200 for the part and fluids and misc other bits to do the electronic ayc bleed, theres a guide for this)

others I've seen need crown and pinion,

and a couple I've heard of were totaled.


I'm not qualified either, (I'm trained as electronic/electrical/computer engineer, also started doing cisco network course, and ended up being a jeweller HAHA)

hasn't stopped me from rebuilding my gearbox,
replacing the clutch, repairing my diff, making my own IC pipe work etc. etc.

DIY for the win and you end up with more $$ in your pocket
and the satisfaction knowing you did it!

even if its not fixable fitting a new evo diff is so much cooler than paying someone else to do it
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
haha fair enough. Just worried about another thing, what did yours do/sound like when it was buggered? mine seems to drive and run perfectly, but with a rumbling knocking nosie when i put my foot on the pedal and a light rattle when i take it off the pedal...
 

Dr_Josh001

Leaving Skid Marks
Location
Driver, NT
First Name
Josh
Drive
96 Galant VR-4 Auto
Sorry to hear about your diff Josh. Look forward to hear the handling results if you go with the s-ayc diff.:)
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
ok so would i be wise sourcing the crown and pinion (or whatever it was) first then? or are they a generic part that any diff shop will be able to get..?
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
no id take it out and find out what is actually broken first.

it might be just those,
but it could be worse??

no point in buying parts if you dont know whats broken
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
most likely going to have a shop take it out though. would they just leave the car sit in the shop while i/they source parts?
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
depends on the shop,

if going the shop way, source a vr4 or evo 8/9 sayc diff before you take it there,

you'll either get charged rent if its gonna take a while or lots for parts if they sort them.

easier/cheaper to source a complete diff, and have only labour + fluids cost, if you cant DIY.
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
fair enough. so in short, workshop = source new diff first, DIY = find whats broken and fix the diff
 
G

Guest

Unregistered
yep thats probably the best way to go IMO

i would have gone the way of the evo s-ayc diff if mine wasn't a cheap fix.

oh and i dug up an old quote from mike at www.kempys.co.nz
evo 8 s-ayc rear $1895-00 Plus Freight and GST

OUCH!!
 

frozen

1 AYC Bar
Lifetime Member
Location
Queensland
First Name
Josh
Drive
1990 Mitsubishi GTO
Formerly: 1996 Galant VR-4
owch.. im going to try find one locally for around $1500 yeah... im expecting labour to be about 500ish? depends where i go. would i be best getting it done at a place that has experience with evos to do the ayc flush?
 

naughtika

OzVR4 Stalker
Location
Brisbane, QLD
First Name
Christian
Drive
'96 Galant VR4, '17 MB A180, '25 Macan GTS
also Josh, keep around $2000 extra... just in case.. you know what most workshops in australia are like..

if you want it done through a workshop.. the most likely procedure will be like..

1. remove your diff..
2. check your diff.. (regardless if you've got your s-ayc waiting to be installed)
3. fix your diff or install your s-ayc
4. lubricate the newly installed diff
5. test the newly installed diff..
6.. test drive the newly installed diff..
7. check the newly installed diff.. again..
8. hand over the $1500 labour bill to the customer..

so all up. it might take them approximately 10+ hours to do.. cause they'll take their time with it..
 
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