Fuel controller blitz r-fit vs apexi safc



Hi guys I thought I would start a detailed thread about fuel controllers.
Now I have read a bit about the apexi safc's but again I spent hours looking up the blitz r-fit on the net and I could'nt find squat.
Almost all things I found were things like I bought a r-fit and I like it blah blah.
No one had any help about the functions and set up of the unit etc.
Basically I thought that I will do a proper description and then the guys with the apexi items can respond to give us a good comparison between the two units.Firstly the install was easy.Remove the side plastic pannel that is located on the left side of the console where the stereo sits.I will post pics shortly.
The pannel is easily removed by undoing two screws on the right of the glove box.
So first look under the glove box in the right corner is one screw.Remove this screw,Then open the glove box and in the top right corner is a second srew and remove this as well. The remove the two screws on the side pannel which are located along the bottom.Then pull gently the plastic panel towards you and to the left at the same time.
It should come away but you may have to open and close the glove box so as to give extra space for panel to slide out.(If you remove the glov box fully then its easier but not necessary to remove)
You will then see the O2 sensor and deeper into the hole are the 4 plugs for the ecu.
Mine were a green color but this may vary. The first from the left is a 26 pin plug, then a 16 pin, 12 pin and 22 pin far right.
Unplug all the plugs by pressing getly on the top of the plug and pull gently and the plug will come out.
First you need to unplug the car battery so as there is no power generated so dissconnect the minus.
You then take the 26 pin plug and turn the plug away from you so as the release pin is at the top.There will be a black wire located in spot 26 which is the bottom right.
You splice this wire so as it is exposed but making sure that the cabel is intact.
Take the black earth from the r-fit and connect to ecu cabel.
Then make sure cabel is well taped with electric tape.
Follow this same step for the red cabe from the r-fit to the red power on the ecu which is pin 25 so next to the earth.
Then you connect the rpm cabel from the r-fit to pin 8 which is second bottom from left on the 12 pin plug.Remember that the release pin is at the top while you are holding the pin away from you and then rpm pin is the white yellow wire on our cpu.
Finally you dont splice but you cut the air flow cabel.It is located at pin 20 on the far right plug so 3rd from right bottom.
You connect the white cabel of the r-fit to the cut cabel of the ecu that is running into the vehicle.Connect and tape up. The final orrange cabel from the r-fit goes to the air flow cabel that is comming from the ecu plug.
I reccomend looking at the apexi diagram on the website as in the blitz manual there is no picture diagrams and the apexi diagram is the same concept so it will make the installation easier to follow.
You then put the plugs back in, connect the battery first and turn the ignition over so as the car does not start but that the r-fit can power up.
If unit comes on etc then turn car off and the replace the plastic pannel and srew back into place.
Then turn keys on ignition but again dont start the car over.
R-fit will power up and first thing is use the arrow down button to the bottom and go to reset.
This is best as many of you may have bought the item second hand so always best to start from scratch even if new.
1great bonus on the r-fit is the shift light feature that isnt mentioned.
You go to the warning function at the bottom of the menu. Select warning on and buzzer on.Set the warning to the rpm that is best for your car as with stock turbos most power from dyno readouts has been at around 6500rpm. So set around this figure to your liking.
I set mine at 6600rpm and when the car rvs this high the unit goes a bright red and a buzzer sounds.
There is your shift light and at a sensible level.
I will post the whole user manual shortly so its a must read before install as I am only writting about a guide for my install and I do not accept any responsibility for anyones install's.
I am waiting on my wideband and a/f gauge so will post full info from my findings but for now I just set -2 at every 400rpm starting at 1500 rpm.
I havnt noticed any huge improvments yet as it has only been installed a few hours ago and dont have a wideband or gauge to read a/f ratio's.
I will update this for a few weeks but my car has 3" dump pipes, 3" cat free exhaust. Factory BOV as I removed my Blitz BOV as my economy went crazy and I have a evo BOV on the way but stock BOV while I installed the r-fit.ake manifold.
I also run a 255lph f/pump and a blitz ebc set at 1 bar or 14.7 psi.I also run 9.8mm performance leads.
This should be all factored but I am also getting only about 18/19 Ltr per 100kms of fuel economy.
Will report how the economy has changed by the -2% along the rev range as this was my first adjustment.
I have used double sided tape to stick the r-fit to sit nicely on the right corner of my dash cluster so it is a bit in front of the taco and the fuel gauge but as the r-fit is so small it hardly blocks the fuel and rpm on dash.
Also I would like to mention that I bought my r-fit for 100 pounds including postage so about $200AUS with current exchange rates.
I am seeing the r-fit for under $100US on the japanese auctions and as this has the 16 point adjustment like the apexi neo and we dont need the vtec feature and as its smaller and fast and easy to install maybee we can have a good alternative to safc's.


blitz controllers

Just an update.
I fitted the Power Id from blitz today.
Looks cool having two controllers sitting on the dash.
I will be able to record speed and acceleration times so will post some figures tomorrow.
I also have to add that I was a bit of a nob as I was so concerned about playing around with the fuel controller that I actually only deducted .3 of a %.
It goes in tenths of a per cent and not in percentage points so hence my not being able to notice any difference.
Now that it is on -3% the car is definately more responsive and when I finish this tank I will see what the fuel economy is like.
I will still wait till my wideband arrives in about 10 days and then properly tune the hell out of it.
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