It's the 2 pin housing connector, the other single pin sensor is for the gauge, this one affects the ECU if faulty or unplugged.
No not yet, there's a wrecker in sa with a manual legnum which i might go grab this week, if the ecu doesn't fix it then i know it has to be sensor/wiring related.Have you actually tried another ECU?
Just tried to start it without that sensor plugged in. Car didn't want to start. wiring passes the wiggle test but the sensor may be going bad as it starts to warm up, looking at replacing that next as they're pretty easy and cheap to get. Plugged it back in and it started fine so i at least know that the temp signal is required for it to runThis one's a doozy! I did a job on someones magna once with this but it was a bad connection to the thermostat temp sensor. It was buggered and died on the wiggle test.
Fingers crossed, I'm hopeful.Going to try and get a refund from the wrecker for the ecu as they did tell me the car was manual but when I got there it was an auto converted car, so I should be fine on that end
I’ll buy a crank sensor but after that I have no idea short of replacing the wiring loom
Yeah, that’s still on the firewall? Double checked fuel pump, when the car cuts there’s still fuel coming out the return so it’s not like the fuel pump is starving the engine and then it shuts offSounds normal, are you still using the big chunky ballast resistor on the firewall?
Forgot you told us or not, when the car cuts the fuel pump still pump fuel, so how about the spark? Do all three coils still output sparks? It's better check all three, not just one of them, to be sure there are sparks from all three coils.Yeah, that’s still on the firewall? Double checked fuel pump, when the car cuts there’s still fuel coming out the return so it’s not like the fuel pump is starving the engine and then it shuts off